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Mental preparation for alpine route
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kheegster


Aug 19, 2009, 3:02 AM
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Registered: May 14, 2009
Posts: 30

Mental preparation for alpine route
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I'm heading out to Wyoming in 2 weeks to attempt the Direct Exum route (10 pitches, 5.7) on the Grand Teton. I have only been leading trad for a year (5.7 at the Gunks), and have only done only 1 long alpine lead (8 pitches, 5.6) which I have felt pretty comfortable on.

As I only have 2 nights to acclimatize I have been worried about the effects of altitude, and also the requirement to move quickly avoid afternoon storms.

From a technical point of view, none of the pitches should present any problem, and if the effects of altitude, weather and being trashed from the long approach are removed I have no doubt this climb is within my ability.

How do I approach this climb mentally? I am primarily worried about getting pumped easily from the altitude, and the fact that there are several crack and chimney sections which I am not strong at.


seatbeltpants


Aug 19, 2009, 9:28 PM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2008
Posts: 581

Re: [kheegster] Mental preparation for alpine route [In reply to]
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any chance of getting some crack and / or chimney mileage in the next two weeks? it sounds like that'd be a good starting point to try to minimise one concern...

steve


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