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Best Ice Belay Glove
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go_dyno


Aug 20, 2009, 1:05 AM
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Best Ice Belay Glove
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After watching my nice ice gloves getting chewed up belaying last season I want to get some tough insulated belay gloves for ice and hoped for suggestions...Thanks


swaghole


Aug 20, 2009, 4:15 AM
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Re: [go_dyno] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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I've use an insulated leather work glove similar to these. They have a velcro wrist cuff, are agile enough so I can fiddle with gear and are durable. The leather gives good friction on the rope. Be carefull if you chose something synthetic - my experience is that they dont' grip rope very well.




rhyang


Aug 20, 2009, 11:09 AM
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BD mercury mitts work well for this. I like to put my climbing gloves inside my belay jacket while belaying .. keeps them warm and dries them out a bit.


sungam


Aug 20, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Mittens are way warmer. I usually climb in gloves and belay in mittens while my gloves hang out inside my jacket.


go_dyno


Aug 20, 2009, 3:05 PM
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Thanks for the answers. I have some very expensive mittens also that I do not want chewed up so I will look into insulated leather work gloves or leather mittens. Thanks AgainSmile


rocknice2


Aug 20, 2009, 4:59 PM
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Re: [go_dyno] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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go_dyno wrote:
After watching my nice ice gloves getting chewed up belaying last season I want to get some tough insulated belay gloves for ice and hoped for suggestions...Thanks

I don't know what kind of glove you have or how you belay but all the glove I've gone through have been from climbing not belaying.

Getting a warm and cheap mitten for the belays is a great idea not only to save the good gloves but more importantly to keep the screaming barfies away


sandstone


Aug 20, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Re: [go_dyno] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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My tactic is to buy gloves that work well enough, and are priced where I can buy multiple pairs. For me that makes much more sense than buying the "best" specialized glove, where I could only afford one or maybe two pairs.

Right now I have 5 pairs of BD Glissade gloves. I bought one pair in a shop, liked them, then bought four more pairs for thirty something dollars each (online clearance sale, I think it was Sierra Trading Post or Mountain Gear). Of course that glove won't work well for everything (i.e. high end mixed -- not that I would know first hand), but I find it works well for general ice climbing.

For cragging I'll always carry two pairs of gloves. One pair for groveling and getting wet on the approach, and a dry pair to climb in. If it's really cold I'll have mittens (with hand warmers inside) stashed in the pockets of my belay parka.

For a week long trip (cragging) I'll carry at least four pairs of gloves, so two pair are always dry and ready to go.

They will all eventually be trashed, and when that happens it's no big deal because I didn't pay a ridiculous price for them.


go_dyno


Aug 20, 2009, 9:05 PM
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Re: [rocknice2] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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"I don't know what kind of glove you have or how you belay but all the glove I've gone through have been from climbing not belaying."
Rocknice2


I know what you mean...but working as a belay slave for a bunch of noobs Tongueat Ouray and belaying for hours from the top holding and lowering climbers is hard on the glovesUnsure


(This post was edited by go_dyno on Aug 20, 2009, 9:06 PM)


sungam


Aug 20, 2009, 9:34 PM
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Re: [go_dyno] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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go_dyno wrote:

"I don't know what kind of glove you have or how you belay but all the glove I've gone through have been from climbing not belaying."
Rocknice2


I know what you mean...but working as a belay slave for a bunch of noobs Tongueat Ouray and belaying for hours from the top holding and lowering climbers is hard on the glovesUnsure
itz troo.
So go to the mountain store in town and buy those cheap mittens (the bulky ones) they have in the "on sale" tub for like 30 bucks. Super warm and don't wear out too fast.


coastal_climber


Aug 23, 2009, 8:30 AM
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mushroom


Aug 27, 2009, 8:11 PM
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Re: [go_dyno] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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try getting some good quality wool and getting a friend to knit you a pair of mittens. It's gotta be some burly stuff, not what you buy at a store, they bleach that stuff.... which makes it very weak. You need the natural stuff from some Nigerian sheep or something....

A good Czech friend of mine knitted me a pair of mittens with some solid Romanian wool and the things are unstoppable. I can even use them for rappelling and all that happens is they mat more and become thicker and stronger. Not to mention I can use them at temps of like 10*F and they are excellent!


(This post was edited by mushroom on Aug 27, 2009, 9:55 PM)


go_dyno


Aug 27, 2009, 9:29 PM
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Re: [mushroom] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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Thanks


sungam


Aug 27, 2009, 11:57 PM
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Re: [mushroom] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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Do you boil yours to shrink them?


mushroom


Aug 30, 2009, 2:36 PM
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no. They do it themselves no problem overtime as they go from being wet -> dry -> wet -> dry. It's good to have them made with an extra long cuff actually because they will end up shrinking to the point where you might want to add more wool so you have a cuff at all.


sungam


Aug 30, 2009, 4:40 PM
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Re: [mushroom] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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Cool, my friends buy these pre-shrunk ones. They're pretty truck.


mushroom


Aug 30, 2009, 6:44 PM
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When they shrink and tighten up, that's when they become really solid. I heard that you can put them in the washing machine to shrink them too, but I've never done this with my homemade wool products because I"ve also seen that's it's hard to judge how long to put them in. My mother knitted a purse once, then put it in the washing machine for a cycle to shrink it and it came out a coin pouch.

A caveat worth mentioning about the woolen gloves is they do nothing for protection against the wind.


AntinJ


Nov 21, 2009, 7:18 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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Costal...whats the name of these BD gloves? they look pretty sick.


(This post was edited by AntinJ on Nov 21, 2009, 7:20 AM)


skiclimb


Nov 21, 2009, 8:01 AM
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Re: [sandstone] Best Ice Belay Glove [In reply to]
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sandstone wrote:
My tactic is to buy gloves that work well enough, and are priced where I can buy multiple pairs. For me that makes much more sense than buying the "best" specialized glove, where I could only afford one or maybe two pairs.

Right now I have 5 pairs of BD Glissade gloves. I bought one pair in a shop, liked them, then bought four more pairs for thirty something dollars each (online clearance sale, I think it was Sierra Trading Post or Mountain Gear). Of course that glove won't work well for everything (i.e. high end mixed -- not that I would know first hand), but I find it works well for general ice climbing.

For cragging I'll always carry two pairs of gloves. One pair for groveling and getting wet on the approach, and a dry pair to climb in. If it's really cold I'll have mittens (with hand warmers inside) stashed in the pockets of my belay parka.

For a week long trip (cragging) I'll carry at least four pairs of gloves, so two pair are always dry and ready to go.

They will all eventually be trashed, and when that happens it's no big deal because I didn't pay a ridiculous price for them.

This my same approach. On a wet day even the best 100+ DOLLAR GLOVES GET SOAKED AND USELESS.


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