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go_dyno
Aug 20, 2009, 8:05 AM
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After watching my nice ice gloves getting chewed up belaying last season I want to get some tough insulated belay gloves for ice and hoped for suggestions...Thanks
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swaghole
Aug 20, 2009, 11:15 AM
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I've use an insulated leather work glove similar to these. They have a velcro wrist cuff, are agile enough so I can fiddle with gear and are durable. The leather gives good friction on the rope. Be carefull if you chose something synthetic - my experience is that they dont' grip rope very well.
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rhyang
Aug 20, 2009, 6:09 PM
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BD mercury mitts work well for this. I like to put my climbing gloves inside my belay jacket while belaying .. keeps them warm and dries them out a bit.
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sungam
Aug 20, 2009, 7:47 PM
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Mittens are way warmer. I usually climb in gloves and belay in mittens while my gloves hang out inside my jacket.
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go_dyno
Aug 20, 2009, 10:05 PM
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Thanks for the answers. I have some very expensive mittens also that I do not want chewed up so I will look into insulated leather work gloves or leather mittens. Thanks Again
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rocknice2
Aug 20, 2009, 11:59 PM
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go_dyno wrote: After watching my nice ice gloves getting chewed up belaying last season I want to get some tough insulated belay gloves for ice and hoped for suggestions...Thanks
I don't know what kind of glove you have or how you belay but all the glove I've gone through have been from climbing not belaying.
Getting a warm and cheap mitten for the belays is a great idea not only to save the good gloves but more importantly to keep the screaming barfies away
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sandstone
Aug 21, 2009, 1:14 AM
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My tactic is to buy gloves that work well enough, and are priced where I can buy multiple pairs. For me that makes much more sense than buying the "best" specialized glove, where I could only afford one or maybe two pairs.
Right now I have 5 pairs of BD Glissade gloves. I bought one pair in a shop, liked them, then bought four more pairs for thirty something dollars each (online clearance sale, I think it was Sierra Trading Post or Mountain Gear). Of course that glove won't work well for everything (i.e. high end mixed -- not that I would know first hand), but I find it works well for general ice climbing.
For cragging I'll always carry two pairs of gloves. One pair for groveling and getting wet on the approach, and a dry pair to climb in. If it's really cold I'll have mittens (with hand warmers inside) stashed in the pockets of my belay parka.
For a week long trip (cragging) I'll carry at least four pairs of gloves, so two pair are always dry and ready to go.
They will all eventually be trashed, and when that happens it's no big deal because I didn't pay a ridiculous price for them.
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go_dyno
Aug 21, 2009, 4:05 AM
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"I don't know what kind of glove you have or how you belay but all the glove I've gone through have been from climbing not belaying."
Rocknice2
I know what you mean...but working as a belay slave for a bunch of noobs  at Ouray and belaying for hours from the top holding and lowering climbers is hard on the gloves
(This post was edited by go_dyno on Aug 21, 2009, 4:06 AM)
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sungam
Aug 21, 2009, 4:34 AM
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go_dyno wrote: "I don't know what kind of glove you have or how you belay but all the glove I've gone through have been from climbing not belaying." Rocknice2 I know what you mean...but working as a belay slave for a bunch of noobs at Ouray and belaying for hours from the top holding and lowering climbers is hard on the gloves
So go to the mountain store in town and buy those cheap mittens (the bulky ones) they have in the "on sale" tub for like 30 bucks. Super warm and don't wear out too fast.
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mushroom
Aug 28, 2009, 3:11 AM
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try getting some good quality wool and getting a friend to knit you a pair of mittens. It's gotta be some burly stuff, not what you buy at a store, they bleach that stuff.... which makes it very weak. You need the natural stuff from some Nigerian sheep or something....
A good Czech friend of mine knitted me a pair of mittens with some solid Romanian wool and the things are unstoppable. I can even use them for rappelling and all that happens is they mat more and become thicker and stronger. Not to mention I can use them at temps of like 10*F and they are excellent!
(This post was edited by mushroom on Aug 28, 2009, 4:55 AM)
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go_dyno
Aug 28, 2009, 4:29 AM
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Thanks
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sungam
Aug 28, 2009, 6:57 AM
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Do you boil yours to shrink them?
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mushroom
Aug 30, 2009, 9:36 PM
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no. They do it themselves no problem overtime as they go from being wet -> dry -> wet -> dry. It's good to have them made with an extra long cuff actually because they will end up shrinking to the point where you might want to add more wool so you have a cuff at all.
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sungam
Aug 30, 2009, 11:40 PM
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Cool, my friends buy these pre-shrunk ones. They're pretty truck.
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mushroom
Aug 31, 2009, 1:44 AM
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When they shrink and tighten up, that's when they become really solid. I heard that you can put them in the washing machine to shrink them too, but I've never done this with my homemade wool products because I"ve also seen that's it's hard to judge how long to put them in. My mother knitted a purse once, then put it in the washing machine for a cycle to shrink it and it came out a coin pouch.
A caveat worth mentioning about the woolen gloves is they do nothing for protection against the wind.
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AntinJ
Nov 21, 2009, 3:18 PM
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Costal...whats the name of these BD gloves? they look pretty sick.
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Nov 21, 2009, 3:20 PM)
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skiclimb
Nov 21, 2009, 4:01 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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sandstone wrote: My tactic is to buy gloves that work well enough, and are priced where I can buy multiple pairs. For me that makes much more sense than buying the "best" specialized glove, where I could only afford one or maybe two pairs. Right now I have 5 pairs of BD Glissade gloves. I bought one pair in a shop, liked them, then bought four more pairs for thirty something dollars each (online clearance sale, I think it was Sierra Trading Post or Mountain Gear). Of course that glove won't work well for everything (i.e. high end mixed -- not that I would know first hand), but I find it works well for general ice climbing. For cragging I'll always carry two pairs of gloves. One pair for groveling and getting wet on the approach, and a dry pair to climb in. If it's really cold I'll have mittens (with hand warmers inside) stashed in the pockets of my belay parka. For a week long trip (cragging) I'll carry at least four pairs of gloves, so two pair are always dry and ready to go. They will all eventually be trashed, and when that happens it's no big deal because I didn't pay a ridiculous price for them.
This my same approach. On a wet day even the best 100+ DOLLAR GLOVES GET SOAKED AND USELESS.
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