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England: Gritstone Style Question
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camhead


Aug 24, 2009, 8:52 AM
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England: Gritstone Style Question
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So, I have a question for any Brits or Americans who have climbed the grit...

it is reasonably common for high level climbers to headpoint classic Grtistone r/x routes like Gaia, Master's Edge, End of the Affair; i.e. toprope them before leading. How common is it for regular climbers to toprope routes like this, with no intention of later leading them? Is this considered bad style, weak, lame? If I go to Gaia on a weekend, how likely am I to see a crew of local climbers who have never led it lapping toprope runs on it?

It is pretty common in the US for climbers (whether weak or strong, it doesn't matter) to toprope some lines that are risky gear leads. Is this the case in the UK?


k.l.k


Aug 24, 2009, 9:16 AM
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Re: [camhead] England: Gritstone Style Question [In reply to]
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Not likely at all-- since it will almost certainly be raining sideways yr entire trip.

I spent 10 summer days in the Peak. On only two of those days was there a weather window big enough to allow anyone to get out to the crags and do roped climbs. Soloing was fine-- you could run a dozen or more routes if the rain stopped for an hour, then go back to the pub when it started again.

But yeah, folks do top-rope them. These things are tiny. Master's Edge is what, 50 feet? And it looks monumental compared to the other stuff in the area.


tomcat


Aug 25, 2009, 6:29 AM
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Re: [k.l.k] England: Gritstone Style Question [In reply to]
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What he said....we just ended up climbing in the rain.


smallclimber


Aug 27, 2009, 6:49 AM
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Re: [camhead] England: Gritstone Style Question [In reply to]
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Common practise on the harder climbs. Most gritstone routes are short and can easily be TRd. However ethics in the UK are quite strong and for lower grade climbs most folks do try to lead even if a TR can be set up. The grade at which headpointing is acceptable is a subject of great debate on the UK equivalent of this site (ukclimbing.com). However if you are not hogging the climb for leaders or damaging the route there should not be a problem.
And it doesn't rain all of the time. Just most of the time.


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