Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Sport Climbing in New York
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


HikenFool


Aug 28, 2009, 6:57 AM
Post #1 of 25 (10709 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2009
Posts: 22

Sport Climbing in New York  (North_America: United_States: New_York)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am visiting my Grams in a week and would like to take a day or two to do some good climbing in the area. I will be staying in Watkins Glenn area and am looking for some sport routes in the area. Unfortunately I dont have a rack yet. Please post suggestions. Thank you.


LostinMaine


Aug 28, 2009, 10:02 AM
Post #2 of 25 (10677 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Good luck. As far as I know, there are very few routes in that neck of the woods, let alone any sport climbing. The Finger Lakes region is not know for climbing. Someone might know a scrap heap or two in the area that I do not...

If you drive to Ithaca, you can find an indoor gym at Cornell, which might be the way to go if you have no rack.


HikenFool


Aug 28, 2009, 10:13 AM
Post #3 of 25 (10673 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2009
Posts: 22

Re: [LostinMaine] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Indoor climbing does not interest me at all. I am willing to drive to Adirondacks or the Gunks I just haven't been able to find any information on if there are enough sport routes to last me a full day or twos climb.


c4c


Aug 28, 2009, 10:48 AM
Post #4 of 25 (10660 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It depends at what level you are climbing. I would suggest getting a copy of the new guidebook Adirondack Rock. There are a variety of crags across the Southern Adks that have some bolted lines.


climbxclimb


Aug 28, 2009, 10:53 AM
Post #5 of 25 (10657 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2005
Posts: 80

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

To my knowledge there is only one sport climbing area in NY State, and this used by West Point Academy for training, it is along the railways path near the academy, you can find information on that on the internet.
I went there only one time and I swore not to go back anymore, it is the most ugly piece of rock you can imagine and it has been painted with latex paint in some parts....
The Gunks and the Adirondacks are purely and serious trad areas the Dacks even more than the Gunks.
If you do not trad climb I would suggest you to not go there unless you want to bouldering or hiking, biking...
The other option is to find a partner who can lead trad and you can follow.
The only sport climbing area climbing area in the north east worth it a visit is Rumney in NH.

Cheers


marc801


Aug 28, 2009, 11:06 AM
Post #6 of 25 (10650 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2744

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

HikenFool wrote:
Indoor climbing does not interest me at all. I am willing to drive to Adirondacks or the Gunks I just haven't been able to find any information on if there are enough sport routes to last me a full day or twos climb.
You realize the one way driving times from the Watkins Glen area, yes?

Gunks: 4+ hrs
Daks: 5.5 hrs
Rumney NH: 8-ish hrs

Of the three, only Rumney has any quantity of sport routes. Daks has a tiny handful, Gunks has none. Your climbing to driving ratio is pretty low for only a day or two.


HikenFool


Aug 28, 2009, 12:05 PM
Post #7 of 25 (10627 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2009
Posts: 22

Re: [marc801] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

marc801 wrote:
Gunks: 4+ hrs
Daks: 5.5 hrs
Rumney NH: 8-ish hrs

Of the three, only Rumney has any quantity of sport routes. Daks has a tiny handful, Gunks has none. Your climbing to driving ratio is pretty low for only a day or two.

I do realize the driving to climbing ratio. Coming from Michigan where we only have a small crag to play on I am willing to take a little drive to get to some good climbing. Although it sounds like there are not enough sport routes in New York for me to even bother bringing my climbing gear. I appreciate all of the help from everybody. I will be back when I have invested into a rack. Peace


shockabuku


Aug 28, 2009, 12:12 PM
Post #8 of 25 (10624 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4860

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climbxclimb wrote:
To my knowledge there is only one sport climbing area in NY State, and this used by West Point Academy for training, it is along the railways path near the academy, you can find information on that on the internet.
I went there only one time and I swore not to go back anymore, it is the most ugly piece of rock you can imagine and it has been painted with latex paint in some parts....

Last time I was there the paint, which was painted over to blend with the rock, only covered parts of about two routes, of which there were about 60-70 single pitch bolted lines w/ topropable anchors. Most of the routes at PI wall are 5.9 and below. PI Wall is an old railroad cut (freight trains still run there) along the edge of the Hudson. The climbing is decent, the rock is very grippy.

There are at least two other small areas close by that offer some more difficult (also bolted) lines but are more difficult to find.


marc801


Aug 28, 2009, 12:21 PM
Post #9 of 25 (10611 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2744

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One other thought....there is a little known sport area in Kingston, NY north of the Gunks. I've never been there - a friend who has once told me:
* the routes are kind of manufactured
* the few warm up routes are 11a - 11c; most of the routes are 12's with maybe a 13a.

I don't know the details of how to get there.


Partner rgold


Aug 28, 2009, 1:13 PM
Post #10 of 25 (10590 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1801

Re: [marc801] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Probably the closest place is Little Falls.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...entral/Little_Falls/

http://www.mountainproject.com/...ttle_falls/105830351

Very short routes, mostly toproped, but some sport. Drive another hour and you're in the Gunks, but no sport there.

Since Marc abandoned us for SLC, there's been an enormous amount of route development at Poko-Moonshine, and there are now quite a few sport pitches at the base of the cliff (some of which are the beginning of something longer). These routes tend to be a touch less than vertical with miniscule holds. Five and a half hours driving time from WG I'd guess.


c4c


Aug 28, 2009, 5:13 PM
Post #11 of 25 (10557 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279

Re: [climbxclimb] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climbxclimb wrote:
To my knowledge there is only one sport climbing area in NY State, and this used by West Point Academy for training, it is along the railways path near the academy, you can find information on that on the internet.
I went there only one time and I swore not to go back anymore, it is the most ugly piece of rock you can imagine and it has been painted with latex paint in some parts....
The Gunks and the Adirondacks are purely and serious trad areas the Dacks even more than the Gunks.
If you do not trad climb I would suggest you to not go there unless you want to bouldering or hiking, biking...
The other option is to find a partner who can lead trad and you can follow.
The only sport climbing area climbing area in the north east worth it a visit is Rumney in NH.

Cheers

You have no idea what you are talking about. When was the last time you were actually physically in the adirondacks?


c4c


Aug 30, 2009, 4:51 PM
Post #12 of 25 (10514 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Watkins glen to Indian Lake -4hrs per mapquest (i imagine you could do it in less)

Snowy mnt
5.8 -7bolts
5.7- 5 bolts
5.8 -4 bolts
5.9- -5bolts P1 7 P2
5.10d -12 bolts
5.9 - 8bolts P1 10 on P2


but there is no sport climbing in the Adirondacks...


campustrampus


Aug 30, 2009, 5:52 PM
Post #13 of 25 (10491 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 23, 2006
Posts: 11

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just off the top of my head I know you could go to Beaver Meadows, buck mountain, shelving rock, or rogers rock in the adirondacks. There are plenty of places up there if you just take a trip to the store and spend a little bit of time looking at the Adirondack Rock guide book. There is also snowy mountain as C4C was saying (which is amazing climbing), but be warned it is also a little bit of a hike into it.

Anyways, good luck!


bdbc


Aug 30, 2009, 6:08 PM
Post #14 of 25 (10488 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 3, 2007
Posts: 103

Re: [c4c] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hey C4C! would you mind directing me towards some good directions on getting to the sport climbing on snowy mt? (possibly from rochester ny?)

thanks!!!


c4c


Aug 30, 2009, 7:11 PM
Post #15 of 25 (10474 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279

Re: [bdbc] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bdbc wrote:
hey C4C! would you mind directing me towards some good directions on getting to the sport climbing on snowy mt? (possibly from rochester ny?)

thanks!!!

Go to your nearest Eastern Mountain Sports (there are a couple out in Roch I think) and pick up a copy of Adirondack Rock- the description is on page 525.


c4c


Aug 30, 2009, 7:37 PM
Post #16 of 25 (10459 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279

Re: [bdbc] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

http://www.mountainproject.com/...s/snowy_mt/106523335


bdbc


Aug 30, 2009, 7:49 PM
Post #17 of 25 (10453 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 3, 2007
Posts: 103

Re: [c4c] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

awesome! thanks a lot. how long would you say the drive there is? 4ish hours maybe?


rhythm164


Aug 30, 2009, 8:58 PM
Post #18 of 25 (10447 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964

Re: [HikenFool] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Little Falls has some stellar, albeit short, sport routes of all grades. If referencing this website for beta point yourself towards the Dihedrals (down and to the left of the main area; don't miss Face Off In Albania (the 5.11 variation), Thandor (5.9), Janis Joplin (5.10a), Bobby McGee (5.9), and Trick Bag (hard .11) (which is on the Tier of Fear, and one of the best routes in town) or alternately Wind Wall which has easy toprope set ups (bolts for anchors w/ easy backups) for some great routes and a chill bolted 5.7, watch for poison ivy. Either place is good and you'll avoid the general outing club retardation that is Moss Island on the weekends (although if you do end up at Moss, while there are no bolted climbs in this area, Fred P Jones (5.11a) and Freddy Kreuger Direct (5.12a) are 5 star routes and well worth your time). Another area worth checking out is Ron's Rock. some bolted stuff, mostly mid to high .11 with generously spaced bolts. Good routes and usually totally deserted.

cheers,
A


freedan


Aug 30, 2009, 9:15 PM
Post #19 of 25 (10439 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2006
Posts: 39

Re: [rhythm164] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Don't climb at Dihedrals, Tier of Fear etc without owner's permission.


rhythm164


Aug 30, 2009, 9:52 PM
Post #20 of 25 (10435 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964

Re: [freedan] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh yea, I heard there's been some recent access issues. What's the latest on that?


freedan


Aug 31, 2009, 7:43 AM
Post #21 of 25 (10400 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 11, 2006
Posts: 39

Re: [rhythm164] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The owner wants people to contact him for permission before climbing on his land (everything from the wind wall all the way to the dihedrals). He wants to know who is on his land. When I talked to him, he asked me to ask anyone I saw there if they had talked to him. Pretty reasonable request.


climbxclimb


Aug 31, 2009, 8:17 PM
Post #22 of 25 (10361 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2005
Posts: 80

Re: [c4c] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey Taleban....I said in my opinion, that means that Your opinion may differ, a 2 hours approach for 5 bolted routes does make the Dacks a destination for sport climbing.
For your information the last time I was there was in June...not that it matters....


rhythm164


Aug 31, 2009, 8:51 PM
Post #23 of 25 (10354 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964

Re: [freedan] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That's cool. Does his property include the Cave as well?


moridunum


Nov 21, 2009, 6:37 PM
Post #24 of 25 (9642 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 17, 2009
Posts: 3

Re: [shockabuku] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
There are at least two other small areas close by that offer some more difficult (also bolted) lines but are more difficult to find.

I live very close to the PI Wall (10 minutes South), but I'm new to sport climbing. I'm very interested in these two other small areas to climb.


bogwon


May 16, 2010, 8:43 AM
Post #25 of 25 (8675 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2009
Posts: 7

Re: [rhythm164] Sport Climbing in New York [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My property includes the cave, aka Chimney Rock, the Deheidrals, and the Wind Wall and all points in between. Contact me each and every time you wish to accesss the property. I allow camping for a small donation. Mike at 315 508 5316 or my cell at 315 219 9923. Thanx,
Michael F. Lonis


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$134.55 (10% off)
$1.35 (10% off)
$179.96 (10% off)
$17.06 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook