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ecocliffchick
Dec 2, 2002, 8:02 PM
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I've gradually replaced "working out" with climbing over the last four years. Unfortunately, I was more of a hard body when I was doing cardio and a weight circuit four times a week in a gym than I am now climbing four times a week. I'd like to supplement my climbing with some weight training and cardio in the new year, but don't want to wear myself out. What do you think would be the best schedule? Should I work out on the same days I climb or on my rest days? I'll likely be climbing in the evenings and if I'm working out on the same day as climbing would it be better before or after I've climbed?
My workouts will be designed for weightloss and strength training - both critical to success in climbing. I know the best way to get better at climbing is to climb more, but right now my onsight and redpoint ability are the same, so it's not a lack of technique, but a strength matter that I need to work on. I've been trying to hit 5.12 for the last 3 years and I'm perpetually stuck at 5.11. I've tried climbing to train strength (bouldering); endurance (laps); and power endurance (circuits of bouldering) and none of it has really improved my climbing. I feel that some supplemental workouts for weightloss will be my best bet. Any suggestions for when I should workout?
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mwbtle
Dec 2, 2002, 8:15 PM
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Well, it depends on how hard you are planning to train. I can't tell you what climbers do, but hard core swimmers train every day, sometimes twice a day, doing land exercises (ie running and situps and such) and swimming, and usually weight train 2 or 3 times a week. So if you want to train that hard, I'd say do it whenever you feel like it, just making sure you take care of your muscles and such with warming up.
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russmanswife
Dec 2, 2002, 8:27 PM
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this is what i found out by mistake i do weight training during my lunch hour and cardio at night when i have someone to watch my son and i go usually about 6 days a week with saturday off. i only get to climb at the most two days a week but one of those days fell on an upper body weights day and the two did not mix very well i wore out so fast and ended up belaying for the rest of the night.
i would probably just try and do all your weights on a couple of days that you aren't climbing kind of plan ahead and give yourself enought rest time between the two and just work the whole body. cardio is pretty easy to fit in but would probably work better after climbing since you have already worked out climbing it would just help your endurance out more as long as you don't over do it.
most of designing workouts is just trial and error finding out what your body can handle and since you do more climbing than i am doing right now you maybe able to handle a different schedule. just a suggestion.
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lilred
Dec 2, 2002, 9:27 PM
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If you have the goal of climing 12s, forget about weights and cardio and keep getting on 12's...
don't get me wrong, cardio and weights are great to keep you in shape, but they won't get you up a 12.
Just my opinion!
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moey
Dec 2, 2002, 10:02 PM
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All workout plans aside, Kathryn, where are you planning to lose that weight from?!? Cut off a leg? !?
(for anyone who hasn't met ecocliffchick, she's FIT!)
-and I have video to prove it! yep- you're in my piece on alex! I'm gonna put it to vhs for you guys to have a laugh at! (that is, the people who know what I'm talking about... not quite ready for a webcast yet!)
It's cheesy!
-Mo
[ This Message was edited by: moey on 2002-12-02 14:04 ]
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enigma
Dec 2, 2002, 10:13 PM
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I work out, running, bicycle riding, rowing machine,cross trainer, when I'm not climbing outside. Also climbing in a gym at night is good to build up your endurance, you have to have alot of energy, to climb multi-pitches. I like to do cardio until exhaustion .
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esimhs99
Dec 2, 2002, 10:50 PM
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i agree with russmanswife. do weights on days you DONT climb, i found out, too, that it is not a good idea (unless your muscles can really handle all that) but i do cardio any day i can, even if i climb. i just try to do one in the AM and one in the PM, if at all possible. but cardio after you climb will help with strenght and endurance, since your muscles will already be tired from climbing.
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ecocliffchick
Dec 3, 2002, 3:45 PM
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Thanks for the advice - and to Moey - I'm not complaining that I'm sloppy fat or anything, I just have some extra cushion that I'd like to whittle away. I'm 5'11 and 150 lbs, which is a totally healthy weight, but not really an optimal climbing weight. I carry alot of the excess weight on my hips and thighs, which is not helping in the climbing department.
I guess I'll try to encorporate a cardio workout in the morning or afternoon Mon - Fri with weights on Tues and Thurs. Then I can climb Mon. night, boulder Wed. night and on the weekend either climb or boulder. Whew! This is going to be a hard core winter!
To lilred - I'd love to hop on .12's all winter long, but the gym that I climb at over the winter doesn't really have enough height to set realistic .12's. I do try to get on everything hard that they set, but really they're more like highball boulder problems. Once I'm outside again I'm hoping to see some improvements with all this training and believe me, I'll be hopping on the 12's to see if it was all worth it!
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