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Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman
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meshuga3


Aug 21, 2009, 6:20 PM
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Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman
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Trip report and photos here: http://rockclimbingisawesome.blogspot.com/2009/08/photo-essay-moby-grape-and-whitney.html

I highly recommend both of these routes.


marc801


Aug 21, 2009, 8:32 PM
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Re: [meshuga3] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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http://rockclimbingisawesome.blogspot.com/...ape-and-whitney.html

Made clicky for the lazy.


olderic


Aug 25, 2009, 3:13 PM
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Re: [meshuga3] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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meshuga3 wrote:
Trip report and photos here: http://rockclimbingisawesome.blogspot.com/2009/08/photo-essay-moby-grape-and-whitney.html

I highly recommend both of these routes.

Whitney G was put up in 1929 -(you said 50's in your blog).


edge


Aug 25, 2009, 4:19 PM
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Re: [meshuga3] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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Back in the Proverbial "Day," the local hardmen used to have a name for climbing one major route on Cannon, Cathedral, and Whitehorse within 24 hours. Perhaps I spent too much time in alternative activities, but my (variety of reasons) addled mind cannot recall the name we gave such a feat. Olderic, comprendez-vous?

Anyway the best I ever got was W-G, Repentance, and Sliding Board, although I believe I did hear of a Direct Direct, Prow, and Last Unicorn link up which certainly impressed me. I would have been more impressed if the perpetrator paid for my dinner at Elvio's, but I digress...

At any rate, I admire any attempt at pushing oneself. That is the only way to learn your limitations and gives you a direct line on pushing them higher. Well done!!!


marc801


Aug 25, 2009, 5:42 PM
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Re: [edge] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
At any rate, I admire any attempt at pushing oneself. That is the only way to learn your limitations and gives you a direct line on pushing them higher. Well done!!!
What he said. And the TR is a highly refreshing antidote to the melodrama-drenched breathless reporting of the antics of a particular Gumburnsy on the same routes.Sly


eastvillage


Aug 25, 2009, 6:00 PM
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Re: [edge] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
Back in the Proverbial "Day," the local hardmen used to have a name for climbing one major route on Cannon, Cathedral, and Whitehorse within 24 hours. Perhaps I spent too much time in alternative activities, but my (variety of reasons) addled mind cannot recall the name we gave such a feat. Olderic, comprendez-vous?

Anyway the best I ever got was W-G, Repentance, and Sliding Board, although I believe I did hear of a Direct Direct, Prow, and Last Unicorn link up which certainly impressed me. I would have been more impressed if the perpetrator paid for my dinner at Elvio's, but I digress...

At any rate, I admire any attempt at pushing oneself. That is the only way to learn your limitations and gives you a direct line on pushing them higher. Well done!!!

Back in those days my buddy and I did almost the same thing, we climbed W-G, then the Ist pitch crack variation start to Sam's, then Lakeview and finally drove over to Whitehorse and ran up the Standard route in the fading light. 17 pitches, great day!


olderic


Aug 25, 2009, 6:47 PM
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Re: [eastvillage] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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eastvillage wrote:
edge wrote:
Back in the Proverbial "Day," the local hardmen used to have a name for climbing one major route on Cannon, Cathedral, and Whitehorse within 24 hours. Perhaps I spent too much time in alternative activities, but my (variety of reasons) addled mind cannot recall the name we gave such a feat. Olderic, comprendez-vous?

Anyway the best I ever got was W-G, Repentance, and Sliding Board, although I believe I did hear of a Direct Direct, Prow, and Last Unicorn link up which certainly impressed me. I would have been more impressed if the perpetrator paid for my dinner at Elvio's, but I digress...

At any rate, I admire any attempt at pushing oneself. That is the only way to learn your limitations and gives you a direct line on pushing them higher. Well done!!!

Back in those days my buddy and I did almost the same thing, we climbed W-G, then the Ist pitch crack variation start to Sam's, then Lakeview and finally drove over to Whitehorse and ran up the Standard route in the fading light. 17 pitches, great day!

Can't remember the name for Edge's triathlon - I do remember conjecture about it. My best day (32 years ago now that I think about it) was similar but maybe not as impressive as eastvillages because it was all on Cannon. Up Whitney-G in an hour and 10, up Sam's in 2 hours and 30 - up Lakeview - with some harder scarier finish on the old Man to the right of the Au Cheval (which was completely bogged down with gumbies) in an hour and 15. The descents took about as long. Whole day was fairly casual - 9 hours or so - probably 20 pitches. I remember Bouchard recounting some training day involving 5 routes.

Miuch more recently I have done Whitney-G then the Saigons/Camber in
the same day - is that worth anything?

My holy grail has always been the Grape, Across the Universe, Robinson Crusoe, Recompense and Sliding Board - linked by bicycle. Not going to happen in this life time/ Unless I can get my son to gun for me - hmmmm.


boymeetsrock


Aug 25, 2009, 8:26 PM
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Re: [meshuga3] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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Nice job and nice TR!!! Thanks for sharing!


edge


Aug 26, 2009, 4:42 AM
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Re: [olderic] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
eastvillage wrote:
edge wrote:
Back in the Proverbial "Day," the local hardmen used to have a name for climbing one major route on Cannon, Cathedral, and Whitehorse within 24 hours. Perhaps I spent too much time in alternative activities, but my (variety of reasons) addled mind cannot recall the name we gave such a feat. Olderic, comprendez-vous?

Anyway the best I ever got was W-G, Repentance, and Sliding Board, although I believe I did hear of a Direct Direct, Prow, and Last Unicorn link up which certainly impressed me. I would have been more impressed if the perpetrator paid for my dinner at Elvio's, but I digress...

At any rate, I admire any attempt at pushing oneself. That is the only way to learn your limitations and gives you a direct line on pushing them higher. Well done!!!

Back in those days my buddy and I did almost the same thing, we climbed W-G, then the Ist pitch crack variation start to Sam's, then Lakeview and finally drove over to Whitehorse and ran up the Standard route in the fading light. 17 pitches, great day!

Can't remember the name for Edge's triathlon - I do remember conjecture about it. My best day (32 years ago now that I think about it) was similar but maybe not as impressive as eastvillages because it was all on Cannon. Up Whitney-G in an hour and 10, up Sam's in 2 hours and 30 - up Lakeview - with some harder scarier finish on the old Man to the right of the Au Cheval (which was completely bogged down with gumbies) in an hour and 15. The descents took about as long. Whole day was fairly casual - 9 hours or so - probably 20 pitches. I remember Bouchard recounting some training day involving 5 routes.

Miuch more recently I have done Whitney-G then the Saigons/Camber in
the same day - is that worth anything?

My holy grail has always been the Grape, Across the Universe, Robinson Crusoe, Recompense and Sliding Board - linked by bicycle. Not going to happen in this life time/ Unless I can get my son to gun for me - hmmmm.

What's a "bicycle?"


jaablink


Aug 26, 2009, 5:37 AM
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Re: [edge] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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The Bicycle Route
“The climb has one of the most colorful histories of any rout in the area. To ensure the facts are recorded with some degree of accuracy, the story will be told in full. While cleaning the rout on rappel in 1976, Ed Webster placed a bolt on the final slab, then was unable to even climb up to it. Everyone got a chuckle out of this, but the best was yet to come. Several years later, just for fun, Alain Comeau and several conspirators “barrowed” Webster’s ten speed bicycle, rappelling down, and hung it off the offensive bolt, no doubt as a warning against any future ethical slippages! Paul Ross even went so far as to sneak Webster’s camera along to photograph the event for posterity. But - as fate would have it - John Bragg & Jay Wilson were climbing INTIMIDATION later that same day. One can only imagine their incredulity upon noticing a ten speed bicycle suspended out in the middle of a blank wall, and the subsequent argument over who saw it first! The bicycle was speedily rescued, albeit on top-rope. When the conspirators discovered the premature rescue of the bicycle, it was seized from Bragg and Wilson, and returned to its ignominious perch for the second time in the same day! There it remained for about two weeks until Webster finally rescued it - and alas, the poor bicycle was never quite the same again. On September 23, 1980, Ed Webster & Susan Patenaude made the routes first ascent, but found an easier way around the famous bicycle bolt - which was finally incorporated into the next variation. Training Wheels I, 5.11b R…“
(p.181-182 Rock climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire 3rd ed / By Ed Webster)


fresh


Aug 26, 2009, 6:13 AM
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Re: [marc801] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
edge wrote:
At any rate, I admire any attempt at pushing oneself. That is the only way to learn your limitations and gives you a direct line on pushing them higher. Well done!!!
What he said. And the TR is a highly refreshing antidote to the melodrama-drenched breathless reporting of the antics of a particular Gumburnsy on the same routes.Sly

speaking of which..
In reply to:
We had no problems, but a couple of weeks later I came back with a friend and watched as a leader whipped, messed up his ankles pretty badly, and had to bail.

anyway nice TR. I managed moby and whitney in the same day back in july, except we had to return to the car to get water. the crux was definitely the second approach, getting to the W-G. brutal!


Gmburns2000


Aug 26, 2009, 6:21 AM
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Re: [meshuga3] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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Nice TR, and well done.

I think I'm the guy who you saw whip on the roof. At the very least I remember two cool dude from VT as the party behind us. If it was you, then many thanks for your help that day.

Greg


seatbeltpants


Aug 27, 2009, 1:15 PM
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Re: [jaablink] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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jaablink wrote:
The Bicycle Route
“The climb has one of the most colorful histories of any rout in the area. To ensure the facts are recorded with some degree of accuracy, the story will be told in full. While cleaning the rout on rappel in 1976, Ed Webster placed a bolt on the final slab, then was unable to even climb up to it. Everyone got a chuckle out of this, but the best was yet to come. Several years later, just for fun, Alain Comeau and several conspirators “barrowed” Webster’s ten speed bicycle, rappelling down, and hung it off the offensive bolt, no doubt as a warning against any future ethical slippages! Paul Ross even went so far as to sneak Webster’s camera along to photograph the event for posterity. But - as fate would have it - John Bragg & Jay Wilson were climbing INTIMIDATION later that same day. One can only imagine their incredulity upon noticing a ten speed bicycle suspended out in the middle of a blank wall, and the subsequent argument over who saw it first! The bicycle was speedily rescued, albeit on top-rope. When the conspirators discovered the premature rescue of the bicycle, it was seized from Bragg and Wilson, and returned to its ignominious perch for the second time in the same day! There it remained for about two weeks until Webster finally rescued it - and alas, the poor bicycle was never quite the same again. On September 23, 1980, Ed Webster & Susan Patenaude made the routes first ascent, but found an easier way around the famous bicycle bolt - which was finally incorporated into the next variation. Training Wheels I, 5.11b R…“
(p.181-182 Rock climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire 3rd ed / By Ed Webster)

awesome Smile

steve


gmggg


Aug 27, 2009, 1:23 PM
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Re: [jaablink] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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jaablink wrote:
The Bicycle Route
“The climb has one of the most colorful histories of any rout in the area. To ensure the facts are recorded with some degree of accuracy, the story will be told in full. While cleaning the rout on rappel in 1976, Ed Webster placed a bolt on the final slab, then was unable to even climb up to it. Everyone got a chuckle out of this, but the best was yet to come. Several years later, just for fun, Alain Comeau and several conspirators “barrowed” Webster’s ten speed bicycle, rappelling down, and hung it off the offensive bolt, no doubt as a warning against any future ethical slippages! Paul Ross even went so far as to sneak Webster’s camera along to photograph the event for posterity. But - as fate would have it - John Bragg & Jay Wilson were climbing INTIMIDATION later that same day. One can only imagine their incredulity upon noticing a ten speed bicycle suspended out in the middle of a blank wall, and the subsequent argument over who saw it first! The bicycle was speedily rescued, albeit on top-rope. When the conspirators discovered the premature rescue of the bicycle, it was seized from Bragg and Wilson, and returned to its ignominious perch for the second time in the same day! There it remained for about two weeks until Webster finally rescued it - and alas, the poor bicycle was never quite the same again. On September 23, 1980, Ed Webster & Susan Patenaude made the routes first ascent, but found an easier way around the famous bicycle bolt - which was finally incorporated into the next variation. Training Wheels I, 5.11b R…“
(p.181-182 Rock climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire 3rd ed / By Ed Webster)

Stories like this are the reason that little tiny guide book is the best there ever will be; and worth owning no matter how close to NH you are.


Partner cracklover


Aug 27, 2009, 2:39 PM
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Re: [meshuga3] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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Great TR, and nice sends!

Thanks for sharing!

GO


AntinJ


Aug 27, 2009, 5:42 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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Did Moby Grape yesterday ~ Best route ever!

nice trip report - i'd like to start doing some full days like that.


losbill


Aug 29, 2009, 5:45 PM
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Re: [marc801] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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In reply to:
What he said. And the TR is a highly refreshing antidote to the melodrama-drenched breathless reporting of the antics of a particular Gumburnsy on the same routes.

Fie on you Marc! Greg can't help the his Scottish genes. The drama, burning emotion and need to express himself poetically burn in his blood must be let out! Greg write on, I will read on! --- A Greg Fan!

PS - Stop dinging up you ankle or you are going to run out of material. See you at the Gunks soon!


Gmburns2000


Aug 29, 2009, 7:07 PM
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Re: [losbill] Moby Grape and Whitney-Gilman [In reply to]
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losbill wrote:
In reply to:
What he said. And the TR is a highly refreshing antidote to the melodrama-drenched breathless reporting of the antics of a particular Gumburnsy on the same routes.

Fie on you Marc! Greg can't help the his Scottish genes. The drama, burning emotion and need to express himself poetically burn in his blood must be let out! Greg write on, I will read on! --- A Greg Fan!

PS - Stop dinging up you ankle or you are going to run out of material. See you at the Gunks soon!

Laugh You're a good man Bill.

Ankle is keeping me from Rumney tomorrow, but maybe Jeremiah and I will see you and Ed in Oct when he comes out. Let me know if you're free.


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