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First time to Red!
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mike_devildog


Aug 31, 2009, 6:40 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2005
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First time to Red!  (North_America: United_States: Kentucky: East: Red_River_Gorge__Climbing_)
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Headed to the Red for labor day weekend, never been!..Would like to see a list from you the people on MUST DO trad routes in the Gorge..prferably 10a and under..names and grades!

Appreciate it!


johnwesely


Aug 31, 2009, 7:58 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
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Re: [mike_devildog] First time to Red! [In reply to]
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Rock Wars (10a) at Long Wall
That 9+ splitter at the Indian Creek crag. The name is eluding me.


rock_fencer


Aug 31, 2009, 8:03 AM
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Re: [mike_devildog] First time to Red! [In reply to]
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If its dry id recomend andromeda strain at roadside crag even if it is slightly damp. Rock wars and autumn are very clean lines. There are a few excellent climbs at eastern skybridge. Buy the new guide book, it has excellent layout of which trad routes are where. Purple valley is pretty awesome and has a lovely runout 5.8 and a whole bunch of other routes. Pretty much every crag has at least 1 good trad route. Pebble beach is ok as well


crankmas


Aug 31, 2009, 8:19 AM
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Purple Valley and Pebble access are both compromised currently due to bridge reconstruction: check online guidebook for beta, hardcopies of guidebook are available at local businesses and of course Miguel's


btg


Aug 31, 2009, 9:03 AM
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Re: [crankmas] First time to Red! [In reply to]
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What everyone else has said... the crack at Indian Creek crag is Crack Attack and is fantastic. Oberon and Doppler effect are both slightly harder than 10a but are fantastic with clean falls.

The Underling (5.9) is a very unique route and absolutley worth doing. At tower rock Arachnid (5.8) is another classic hand crack. Africa (5.9) is good but I would only recomend the first pitch.

-ben


captainstatic


Aug 31, 2009, 12:07 PM
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Re: [mike_devildog] First time to Red! [In reply to]
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mike_devildog wrote:
Headed to the Red for labor day weekend, never been!..Would like to see a list from you the people on MUST DO trad routes in the Gorge..prferably 10a and under..names and grades!

Appreciate it!
Your crag choice will be important on this busy weekend. Long Wall with Autumn & Rock Wars is definitely a must and possibly won't be too crowded. Other high quality route options at Long Wall include Perforator, Yuk (if you carry Big Bros), & Accidentally Kelly Street.

You could definitely avoid the crowds at Lower & Middle Small Walls with Dicey at Best, Good Tang, & Blue Biner @ Lower and The Quest, Handjob, & Marmalade @ Middle.

Roadside and Fortress will likely be crowded. Too bad the bridge construction has closed easy access to Purple Valley & Muscle Beach, etc.

I suppose if you really wanted to get away from it all you could go to Wall of Denial for the classic Strick 9 and Eagle Point Buttress for the classic Blister in the Sun.


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