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Broken bolts at Index
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num1mc


Aug 31, 2009, 9:06 AM
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Broken bolts at Index
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Two bolt hangers have broken at Index recently. http://cascadeclimbers.com/...Hangers_S#Post902523

Of coarse, Cascadeclimbers is too busy slinging mud and questioning local ethics to deal with the fact that this may be a seriuos safety concern with natioal consequences. Apparently the bolt broke with body weight, and gave no outward signs of intensive corrosion


jakedatc


Sep 2, 2009, 12:18 PM
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Re: [num1mc] Broken HANGERS at Index [In reply to]
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num1mc wrote:
Two bolt hangers have broken at Index recently. http://cascadeclimbers.com/...Hangers_S#Post902523

Of coarse, Cascadeclimbers is too busy slinging mud and questioning local ethics to deal with the fact that this may be a seriuos safety concern with natioal consequences. Apparently the bolt broke with body weight, and gave no outward signs of intensive corrosion

having read the same thread the title is misleading. only the hangers broke.. not the bolts themselves. there is a difference


possum2082


Sep 5, 2009, 5:46 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] Broken HANGERS at Index [In reply to]
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bolt+hanger=bolt (in street lingo)

clear language is always a plus (esp in the lab), but give the guy a break. he's just trying to give us a heads up.


billcoe_


Sep 5, 2009, 8:13 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] Broken HANGERS at Index [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
only the hangers broke.. not the bolts themselves. there is a difference

Huge: hangers are easy to spot and replace. Here's the pictures moved over to here.





Keep an eye out for Kong Bonatti hangers.


Lazlo


Sep 5, 2009, 8:49 AM
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Re: [num1mc] Broken bolts at Index [In reply to]
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num1mc wrote:
Two bolt hangers have broken at Index recently. http://cascadeclimbers.com/...Hangers_S#Post902523

Of coarse, Cascadeclimbers is too busy slinging mud and questioning local ethics to deal with the fact that this may be a seriuos safety concern with natioal consequences. Apparently the bolt broke with body weight, and gave no outward signs of intensive corrosion

What I'd really like to know is if the locals knew they needed replacing...and everyone is just lazy. Scary crap.


billcoe_


Sep 6, 2009, 9:22 AM
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Re: [Lazlo] Broken bolts at Index [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:
What I'd really like to know is if the locals knew they needed replacing...and everyone is just lazy.

No and no.


Partner philbox
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Sep 11, 2009, 5:06 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] Broken HANGERS at Index [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
only the hangers broke.. not the bolts themselves. there is a difference

Huge: hangers are easy to spot and replace. Here's the pictures moved over to here.





Keep an eye out for Kong Bonatti hangers.

That looks like a galvanised steel hanger. It would be interesting to know what bolt was used to fix these in place. If it was a stainless steel bolt then it is not surprising that the hanger failed due to galvanic corrosion.


Kinobi


Nov 26, 2009, 10:05 PM
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Re: [philbox] Broken HANGERS at Index [In reply to]
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Ciao,

I am a climber, hanger producer and, more important for the discussion, an Italian Climber.
Kong is an Italian company, may be I have used about 1000 of those hangers myself and I have seen, who knows, 10K, 20K of them placed.

First: there are 3 types of them: Aluminium, Steel and Stainless. The lattest very little used since it's made from 316, so pretty expensive.
All Alu hangers, we all know here, are weak and should be replaced. Period. End of discussion. I think the ropture refers to them.
Some steel one are now showing serious signs of wear. We are as climbing community replacing them.
Stainless looks fine.

It's about 8 years that those hangers are very little used. Equippers uses now other brands. Not for an issue with quality, but mainly with price.

As a climber and as an equipper, I know when I see there hangers on a route, they might have minimum 10 to 15 years.
Minimum.
I repeat it: minimum 10 years. Period. Easily 15, some 20 years.

I need to point out to everybody, that nothing last forever (even stainless) and, all climbers, should not take everything from granted. Climbers should consider that, once in 15 years, everything should be rebolted. Period.

Then, if you want, we go on with discussions why it wears out that way. But I think this is not the point.
An inexpensive piece of metal that is out holding falls for 15 years should be replaced.
Let the piece rest in peace!!!!WinkWinkWink

Ciao,
E

PS if you want to post it in the Cascade forum, be free to do it.


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