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Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area?
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fitzontherocks


Sep 2, 2009, 6:49 AM
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Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area?  (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Western)
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Time for a fall roadtrip, looking for info. We've hit Looking Glass a couple of times and loved it. Read up a bit on Stone Mountain. "600 foot granite dome" sounds intriguing, but is it, really? Is there much variety and are there other places to climb within 30-60 minutes of Stone Mountain? Any friendly advice is appreciated. Thanks.


norskagent


Sep 2, 2009, 7:07 AM
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Re: [fitzontherocks] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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moore's is about 1.5 hours east of stone, boone about 1.5 hrs. west.


duncanlennon


Sep 2, 2009, 7:17 AM
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Re: [fitzontherocks] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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Stone is nice, but 600 feet seems like a stretch. Most of the full-length routes are 4 pitches, with the last one being easy 5th padding up an increasingly low-angled slab. Not a ton of variety, but there are quite a handful of classics. Definitely worth 1-2 days, but I wouldn't make it a destination. Moore's is cool, but it probably makes more sense to head to the Boone area.


csproul


Sep 2, 2009, 7:44 AM
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Re: [fitzontherocks] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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fitzontherocks wrote:
Time for a fall roadtrip, looking for info. We've hit Looking Glass a couple of times and loved it. Read up a bit on Stone Mountain. "600 foot granite dome" sounds intriguing, but is it, really? Is there much variety and are there other places to climb within 30-60 minutes of Stone Mountain? Any friendly advice is appreciated. Thanks.
Stone is HOT when the sun is out and the temps are not cold. It is a great place, but many of the climbs are very similar; slab climbing between run-out bolts. There is also good bouldering there. Did I mention that it is very warm...i.e. I generally don't go there until winter. Moore's wall is within an hour of Stone and it has good routes and bouldering. Ship rock may be within an hour (I've never gone between the two) and it is good in the fall. LG, as you know, is great in the fall.


fitzontherocks


Sep 2, 2009, 8:23 AM
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Re: [csproul] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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Thanks. We've got the offer of a cabin near North Wilkesboro, so were thinking Stone looked close to that. You familiar with that area? We're after multi-pitch; does Moore's and Ship have taller routes?


csproul


Sep 2, 2009, 8:39 AM
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Both areas are mostly one pitch routes, although there are several that are 2 pitches. Some of the routes at Ship are 2+, but can usually be done in 1 or 1 + a short pitch if you sling accordingly.


cragmasterp


Sep 2, 2009, 9:04 AM
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Re: [fitzontherocks] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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I would personally have to give Stone a thumbs up for a least a day of your trip. Truly classic granite slab climbing. Try "grand funk railroad" or one of the other routes that is multi-pitch. The climbing can be a little redundant but on lead it is not boring. It can be hot in the sun there though, save it for a cool day.

Moores is much different, although equally classic. The routes are pumpy, vertical to overhanging quartzite, not unlike the Gunks. Zoo View is the essential sandbagged 5.7 two pitch route. If you can get there on a week day you will have the place to your self. No fixed gear to speak of though, and the descents can be a little hard to find for a first timer.

Ship has some stellar long pitches and stays cool in the summer. Worth a visit for sure.

Enjoy!


saxfiend


Sep 2, 2009, 9:43 AM
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Re: [fitzontherocks] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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fitzontherocks wrote:
Thanks. We've got the offer of a cabin near North Wilkesboro, so were thinking Stone looked close to that. You familiar with that area?
North Wilkesboro is definitely close to Stone Mountain, though you'll have to take back roads to get there. It's about 20 miles away.

You don't mention when you'll actually be there; if it's this coming weekend, Stone Mountain will definitely be on the hot side, but if it's going to be a few weeks, things will probably be cooled off enough. As others have said, Moore's Wall isn't too much further away and is a great place to climb when Stone is too warm, so that can be your Plan B. I don't know Ship Rock so can't tell you how close it is.

Stone Mountain is one of my favorite places, since I like slab climbing. It's true that there's a lot featureless friction climbing there, but there's more variety than you might think. The Great Arch is a three-pitch dihedral climb, very well protected; No Alternative is similar on its first pitch; Grand Funk Railroad (5 pitches) follows parallel dikes much of the way. There's also some multi-pitch groove climbing (such as Great White Way) that's pretty cool.

If slab isn't your thing, Moore's is definitely worth the extra drive time from N. Wilkesboro. Zoo View is a must do there.

JL


fitzontherocks


Sep 2, 2009, 9:49 AM
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Re: [saxfiend] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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Right. We're looking at October 3-6. Probably too early for fall color, but at least the nights will be a little cooler, right? And I haven't seen anyone compare/contrast Looking Glass with Stone. Any thoughts?


(This post was edited by fitzontherocks on Sep 2, 2009, 9:50 AM)


clemsonscooby


Sep 2, 2009, 10:34 AM
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Re: [fitzontherocks] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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Comparison: Stone sucks compared to Looking Glass. The Glass has much more variety and the thrill factor is actually the climbing. Stone, if it weren't for the runouts the place would probably be boring. If you want fun multi-pitch slab, go to Laurel Knob. Its out of the way, but will easily put Stone to shame.

Like everyone has already said, Moores is the place to be, even in October. Climbing is very similar to the Gunks, but not sandbagged. That time of the year, Linville Gorge is awesome! Shortoff is just starting to get really good, Table Rock and the Amphitheater are great. Perfect timing for fall colors in Linville as well.


(This post was edited by clemsonscooby on Sep 2, 2009, 10:36 AM)


saxfiend


Sep 2, 2009, 10:47 AM
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Re: [fitzontherocks] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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fitzontherocks wrote:
And I haven't seen anyone compare/contrast Looking Glass with Stone. Any thoughts?
Looking Glass is another favorite destination for me. The climbing there is not much like Stone, which is primarily friction; although there's slab climbing at LG, it's got lots more opportunities for protection. More variety and number of routes, too. Of course it's a lot further drive from N. Wilkesboro.

JL


fitzontherocks


Sep 2, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Re: [saxfiend] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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We're coming from the west-- Arkansas-- so the Glass is actually closer. I was just considering other areas (the free cabin near Wilkesboro influenced me to want to check out Stone. But we're going to climb, and not lay around a cabin). Last time we were at Looking Glass, we also spent a day at Rumbling Bald and loved that. I guess I should add that we don't have multi pitch here, so that's what we're after. Nice scenery, moderate crack, slab, face routes-- variety is good.


csproul


Sep 2, 2009, 1:10 PM
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saltydog


Sep 2, 2009, 1:17 PM
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if you're headed to LG, might give Cedar Rock a look too.
It's real close and worth it if in the area. Perhaps John's Rock also.

camping is plentiful and free.


charley


Sep 2, 2009, 2:28 PM
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Make the trip longer. Nc is a great place to be. Stone is a classic and worth at least a day. Moores has some multi pitch. Looking glass has some multi also. the glass is a great place. You may also find out about the other side of rumbling bald. There is a limited guide book which is sold out but you may find some beta at ccc.org. Have fun it is a great state to climb in.


fitzontherocks


Sep 2, 2009, 2:35 PM
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Re: [charley] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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charley wrote:
Make the trip longer. Have fun it is a great state to climb in.

Tell me something I don't know. I'm just glad the locals allow us across the state line.


BirminghamBen


Sep 3, 2009, 8:54 AM
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Re: [clemsonscooby] Stone Mountain, or Looking Glass area? [In reply to]
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clemsonscooby wrote:
... If you want fun multi-pitch slab, go to Laurel Knob...

Bingo. If you are coming from Arkansas and you want multipitch slab, Panthertown Valley can't be beat and is due West of LG and Stone. Laurel Knob, Big Green, Woody Wall all approach from the same parking/camping area. Better be on your game, though...runouts here not only entail long distances between pro, but are often over relatively featured terrain and are likely steeper than those at Stone.

Whitesides is also nearby if you want chossy steepness.

Depending on how you come from Arkansas, Tallulah may not be out of the way for a different type of climbing.


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