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ratherbe
Aug 21, 2009, 6:11 PM
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Thanks. It was a good weekend.
There is no way I was only a foot shy of that third bolt, it took a few moves to get to the point of reaching it to clip. I think it was at least 3 feet away.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 21, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Glad it all worked out! I added another post above, just before you submitted.
Congrats again! I feel that breaking through a mental barrier is a bigger success than breaking through physical barriers, personally.
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ratherbe
Aug 21, 2009, 6:19 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: Glad it all worked out! I added another post above, just before you submitted. Congrats again! I feel that breaking through a mental barrier is a bigger success than breaking through physical barriers, personally.
Agreed. I think that sometimes breaking through a mental barrier is part of or helps in breaking through a physical barrier.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 21, 2009, 6:27 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: I've definitely been in similar positions. Sometimes you just have to decide to get it done, and then employ tunnel vision in order to focus on the task at hand and block out the distractions. Good on her for weighing the risks and pushing through to success! Hope the ankle heals up soon. And Greg, next time bring the damn ropes dude!  You owe "Savior" a 12 pack at the least! edit speeling 
I totally owe him, too. Oh man, what a fuck up that almost turned into.
Ratherbe has already friended him on Facebook, so I'm sure I'll get a chance to pay him back (I was a bit of a dumbfuck for not sitting down with he and his friend for dinner when we returned the rope. I was tired, sore, and wanted a cheap / quick meal. I totally owe him).
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Gmburns2000
Aug 21, 2009, 6:28 PM
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ratherbe wrote: Thanks. It was a good weekend. There is no way I was only a foot shy of that third bolt, it took a few moves to get to the point of reaching it to clip. I think it was at least 3 feet away.
I'll split the difference and settle on two feet.
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 1, 2009, 3:29 AM
Post #131 of 1159
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Rain on Friday and all day Saturday left the gunks soaked on Sunday. Even though it was soaked, it seemed to be "take your kid climbing" day and we walked up to 10 climbs before finding an open climb. I was rather grumpy when we started up 3 pines. Woudn't you know it, it was soaked from the ground up. Although it's an easy climb, it's not one you want to grease off of due to the ledges etc. So carefully picked my way up the first two pitches so as not to slip off and kill myself. Mitch took the remaining pitches and then he had to leave to drive back to PHL. I planned on staying the night, as I had arranged to fly out of Stewart Newburgh airport on Monday night. I Spent the rest of the day following my friend MIke up some righteous climbs, including Son of easy ok Jean, Splastic and Welcome to the Gunks. Let me tell you Michael and I do some good tens, but, Welcome to the Gunks was the toughest 10 I have done at the gunks. Several cruxes, starting with a slab that is really hard for shorties followed by 5 roofs. NIce way to end the day.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 1, 2009, 1:03 PM
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gblauer wrote: Rain on Friday and all day Saturday left the gunks soaked on Sunday. Even though it was soaked, it seemed to be "take your kid climbing" day and we walked up to 10 climbs before finding an open climb. I was rather grumpy when we started up 3 pines. Woudn't you know it, it was soaked from the ground up. Although it's an easy climb, it's not one you want to grease off of due to the ledges etc. So carefully picked my way up the first two pitches so as not to slip off and kill myself. Mitch took the remaining pitches and then he had to leave to drive back to PHL. I planned on staying the night, as I had arranged to fly out of Stewart Newburgh airport on Monday night. I Spent the rest of the day following my friend MIke up some righteous climbs, including Son of easy ok Jean, Splastic and Welcome to the Gunks. Let me tell you Michael and I do some good tens, but, Welcome to the Gunks was the toughest 10 I have done at the gunks. Several cruxes, starting with a slab that is really hard for shorties followed by 5 roofs. NIce way to end the day.
Wow, that's a good last day. Well done.
I was supposed to hit the 'Gunks this past weekend but got scared away by the rain. I heard some folks made it out there, but it sounds as if the forecast was spot on.
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AntinJ
Sep 2, 2009, 1:54 AM
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The forecast was spot-on indeed. I got to the MUA on Friday morning around 10am to set-up a bombproof shelter that would withstand the predicted inclement weather. I met my good friend Andy (AJ) around noon who had just completed the drive from Washington D.C. We finished setting up camp and had begun the hike down the Carriage road before 1pm. Our first climb was Snooky's Return. About halfway through the 2nd pitch we could see rain clouds moving in fast. Once at the rap-station, the skies open up on us. By the time we reached terra firma, we were completely drenched so we decided to keep climbing. We headed to the Uberfall area to climb some easy single pitch stuff; Horseman, Rhododendron, Clover and Laurel to name a few. The rain subsided around 5 pm, so we headed over to the Nears to climb Gelsa, which AJ had yet to experience. It seemed as if things were going to stay dry, but just as we were finishing the last pitch we got caught in another down pour. By the time we rapped off, it was time to change into some dry clothes and grab some warm food and drink at the Guilded Otter. We met our third climbing partner (PW) there and then headed back to the MUA to start a much needed campfire.
We woke up Saturday hoping for silence, but of course the sound of raindrops on rain-flies filled the air. We headed to split rock to wash up, and then cruised into town for some warm coffee and breakfast at the Muddy Cup where we would discuss climbing options for the day. We eventually came to a decision. It urks me to admit this, but we did indeed explore the wonderful "Inner Wall Rock Gym" in downtown New Paltz. I feel especially bad for AJ, who just drove 6 hours to climb indoors, but we really had a good time there (All things considered of course). We monitored the weather constantly hoping for a chance to run to the cliffs for a quick route, but the rain persisted. We headed to Mexicali Blue for dinner and discussed plans for Sunday. On our way back to the MUA, the rain weakened to a drizzle. We were determined not to allow a climb-less day go by, so around 8pm we racked up and headed to the cliffs. None of us had ever climbed Madame G's before, so it was easy to select a route that would appeal to all of us and be climbable in the rain. The climbing was great and we all had a terrific time! Just as we were rapping down, the bad weather picked up yet again. We packed up our gear and jogged back down the carriage road to the West Trapps Parking lot. We were in the car just before 10pm, soaked, but psyched to have squeezed in another Gunk's classic!
Sunday was a relatively short day at the Gunks, but the sun was shining and many of the climbs had begun to dry out. Since neither AJ nor PW had climbed Shockley's Ceiling before, we started the day with that. Before we called it quits we managed to climb Shockley's, Pas De Deux, City Lights, and Lichen 40 Winks. When we finished climbing AJ headed back to DC, PW headed back to Boston and I headed to Rock & Snow for some MUCH needed cam lube! Although we didn't get a chance to climb the routes we had planned to, we still had a wonderful trip! "There's no such thing as bad conditions, just bad attitudes".
see you out there rain or shine,
Jason
PW, AJ, me
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Sep 2, 2009, 1:55 AM)
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gblauer
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Sep 2, 2009, 2:08 AM
Post #134 of 1159
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Umm...climbing in the rain...not something I choose to do! Cudos to you for having a great time anyways.
Monday was a beautiful day at the gunks; 67 degrees, sunny and delightful. Add Overhanging Laybeck to your tick list (both pitches), its a ton of fun.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 2, 2009, 2:12 AM
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Dude that's awesome! That's two reports from that weekend in the rain. I'm glad there's some more courageous-than-me people out there. You definitely had the right attitude. 
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boymeetsrock
Sep 2, 2009, 3:45 AM
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Sweet!!!!
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ratherbe
Sep 2, 2009, 10:51 AM
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Nice! I definitely have a bad attitude about rain, way to make the most of it!
My first time to the Dacks coming up this weekend... that should beget a WW report, stay tuned!
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 2, 2009, 11:41 AM
Post #138 of 1159
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Ratherbe, I want your lead head. h
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ratherbe
Sep 2, 2009, 5:35 PM
Post #139 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: Ratherbe, I want your lead head. h
Really? Why?
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 4, 2009, 4:34 PM
Post #140 of 1159
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ratherbe wrote: gblauer wrote: Ratherbe, I want your lead head. h Really? Why?
Jen, you are a much better leader than you give yourself credit for. TIffany, too. Me, I probably think I'm better than I actually am.
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 4, 2009, 4:35 PM
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ratherbe wrote: Nice! I definitely have a bad attitude about rain, way to make the most of it! My first time to the Dacks coming up this weekend... that should beget a WW report, stay tuned!
Maybe if I can actually remember the camera this time, I might have one for Acadia this weekend.
Josh
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losbill
Sep 4, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Jen --- You are one climbing hardwoman. I still remember your grit, determination and skill in leading SOEO a couple of years ago one damp Sunday morning.
Gail, go ahead; climbing like Jen is a good thing.
Bill
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Gmburns2000
Sep 7, 2009, 5:11 PM
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Well, I haven't posted for a while due to various reasons. They're all pretty much listed in my newest post.
Ankles Galore!
I'm trying a different pace this time, too.
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ratherbe
Sep 8, 2009, 12:28 AM
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The Adirondacks were beautiful and curiously uncrowded on this long weekend of unbelievably great weather. We hit Poke-O on Friday and Monday, Barkeater on Saturday, and Beer Walls on Sunday. Things I learned:
--linking climbs may not be as obvious as the book makes it look. Trying to combine Puppies on the Edge and Discord left me running out a easy traverse, making hard moves on marginal gear and then reversing it all when I just didn't like the going forward moves.
--y'all may be right about my abilities being greater than I give myself credit for. I definitely didn't expect to successfully finish a 10a that was shutting down my partner, but that was a highlight of the weekend. And it was a great move. (Lick it Up, 5.10a, Barkeater).
--if there is a rap option off the first pitch, there's a good chance that the second pitch is absolute crap. Good news, I got to lead the good pitch! (Turbocharge 5.10a, Lower Beer Walls).
--when you're tired from a day of climbing, leading an outstanding pitch can be insanely rejuvenating. (Rockaholic, 5.8, Lower Beer Walls).
--I have to go back.
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AntinJ
Sep 8, 2009, 12:32 AM
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Sounds Awesome Jen - Makes we want to get out there!
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gblauer
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Sep 8, 2009, 4:22 PM
Post #146 of 1159
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Okay, I woke up on Friday and I had no idea where I was. (no...it wasn't due to drinking...) I knew I was in a hotel room, but...what city? (Nashville) That's how much traveling I have been doing. I was simply too exhausted to go up to the gunks. So I stayed home and prepared for our third annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean (fund raiser for our local climbing area). On Monday I actually did some sport climbing at Birdsboro. There are lots of new lines, and I did a few of them. But what I really wanted to do was hit my nemesis, Laid Back and Well Hung (11d). I watched my friend Ted float the climb and figured that I would do same. (after all, I have been training rigorously...). Try as I might, the burly techincal crux of Laid Back kicked my butt. It's a long reachy move, followed by a long, stemming drop knee and several more burly/technical moves to the next stance/bolt. I managed to make it through the crux after several attempts, but, I felt no stronger on it than the first time I attempted it. (Well, maybe a bit better...)
Ted's comment..."how can you expect to send this thing when you only get on it once a year?" He's right! I guess I will try again at the Climb and Clean (if I get a chance do break from all of my other duties). Next weekend: The Gunks.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 8, 2009, 5:21 PM
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gblauer wrote: Next weekend: The Gunks.
Maybe we'll see you there. I'm going to give it a go this weekend. I haven't really climbed since Cannon.
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 9, 2009, 7:29 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: ratherbe wrote: Nice! I definitely have a bad attitude about rain, way to make the most of it! My first time to the Dacks coming up this weekend... that should beget a WW report, stay tuned! Maybe if I can actually remember the camera this time, I might have one for Acadia this weekend. Josh
It's coming. Just waiting for pics to be approved. 
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Gmburns2000
Sep 11, 2009, 3:48 PM
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'bout time!
Nice TR and thanks for sharing. I'll be up there next weekend, but as usual, not for climbing.
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