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Single pitch Trad at new river

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chopperjohn


Sep 6, 2009, 1:37 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2007
Posts: 65
Single pitch Trad at new river  (North_America: United_States: West_Virginia: South-_New_River_Gorge)
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I need a some good 5.10 and below single pitch at NRG any suggestions?


jamatt


Sep 6, 2009, 2:12 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2005
Posts: 106
Re: [chopperjohn] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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try the "best routes for you in this area" feature at mountainproject.com.

go to destinations, then west virginia, then new river gorge, and then look for the loittle clicky in the upper left.

i used it for a trip to the red and it worked really well.


chopperjohn


Sep 6, 2009, 2:41 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2007
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Re: [jamatt] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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Thanks, That page is awesome!


rockandlice


Sep 6, 2009, 3:03 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2008
Posts: 611
Re: [chopperjohn] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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Fantasy .8
New Yosemite .9
Basic Bubba Crack .9
Tree Route 10a
Burning Calves 10b
Spider Wand 10a
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 10a
Mushrooms 10a
The Entertainer 10a
SUPERCRACK! .9 (All of these are classics, but DON'T miss this one
Celebate Mallard 10
Roy's Lament .9
Rod Serling Crack .9
Mig Squadron 10d


Those should get you started.


duncanlennon


Sep 6, 2009, 4:26 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2006
Posts: 109
Re: [chopperjohn] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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Go to the Junkyard or the Bridge Buttress (close to one another). Lots of relatively moderate trad (a few sevens up to a bunch of tens). Four Sheets to the Wind and Rapscallion Blues are musts at Junkyard.


csproul


Sep 7, 2009, 3:49 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 806
Re: [rockandlice] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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rockandlice wrote:
Fantasy .8
New Yosemite .9
Basic Bubba Crack .9
Tree Route 10a
Burning Calves 10b
Spider Wand 10a
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 10a
Mushrooms 10a
The Entertainer 10a
SUPERCRACK! .9 (All of these are classics, but DON'T miss this one
Celebate Mallard 10
Roy's Lament .9
Rod Serling Crack .9
Mig Squadron 10d


Those should get you started.
Great list...some of my favorites. Rod Sterling 5.9?? It is harder than Spider Wand, Burning Calves, and Wham Bam in my opinion. I also thought that Spider Wand and Wham Bam were harder than Burning Calves.


dan4geng


Sep 7, 2009, 6:28 PM
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Registered: Sep 29, 2006
Posts: 61
Re: [rockandlice] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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I agree 100% (at least for the ones I've done). Espicially Burning calves, New Yosemite, and Super Crack... I also second four sheets to the wind (Junkyard).

There are three more I have to recommend. #1 is Indian Summer 10c (Summersville Lake)

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...an_Summer_71675.html

#2 is Triple Treat 10a (fern buttress) http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ple_Treat_46226.html

#3 isn't a 10 but linear encounters is also amazing http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ncounters_65556.html


chopperjohn


Sep 12, 2009, 1:29 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2007
Posts: 65
Re: [chopperjohn] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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Wow, The New pounded me like a bitch. You all have some nice rock and CRACKS! I was schooled big time! Not one piece of gear came out because I was chicken shit when i saw the cracks. I thought my skills were alright until "Jaws" whipped my ass. Now I hafta learn some crack technique and come back. I did roll up some of the non crack routes which are real nice as well.


CrazyPetie


Sep 12, 2009, 6:59 PM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2008
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Re: [dan4geng] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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Indian Summer is awesome. Last spring i onsighted Mutiny, an 11d overhanging arete. Then i went around the corner to indian summer where some of my friends had already put it up. I got on it on top rope and couldn't make any moves on the actual crack, deffinatly a different style. Its on my list of things to do this year when the water goes down.


TheRucat


Sep 12, 2009, 10:46 PM
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Registered: Dec 20, 2008
Posts: 83
Re: [csproul] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
rockandlice wrote:
Fantasy .8
New Yosemite .9
Basic Bubba Crack .9
Tree Route 10a
Burning Calves 10b
Spider Wand 10a
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 10a
Mushrooms 10a
The Entertainer 10a
SUPERCRACK! .9 (All of these are classics, but DON'T miss this one
Celebate Mallard 10
Roy's Lament .9
Rod Serling Crack .9
Mig Squadron 10d


Those should get you started.
Great list...some of my favorites. Rod Sterling 5.9?? It is harder than Spider Wand, Burning Calves, and Wham Bam in my opinion. I also thought that Spider Wand and Wham Bam were harder than Burning Calves.

Funny you say that, I thought the same thing.. And I actually had a conversation with another climber I saw at the bridge buttress who pointed out that he felt almost all of the 5.9 trad lines there seemed harder than the 10s.


csproul


Sep 13, 2009, 6:41 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Re: [TheRucat] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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And I am pretty sure that Rod Serling crack is 10b in Cater's guidebook.


(This post was edited by csproul on Sep 13, 2009, 6:50 PM)


cragmasterp


Sep 14, 2009, 9:34 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 248
Re: [csproul] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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Rod Serling is pretty freakin solid 10b IMHO, really out there stemming under the roof.


rockandlice


Oct 4, 2009, 3:12 PM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2008
Posts: 611
Re: [cragmasterp] Single pitch Trad at new river [In reply to]
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Yes, Serling is a solid 10b. Simple typo....there's no drama.


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