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sogetthis
Sep 5, 2009, 2:04 AM
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I do mostly single pitch, occasional short multi pitch.
I was taught to direct belay the follower originally and is what I always do, either with atc guide or munter.
now I'd like to start using indirect more, and am wondering what are some of the favorite ways you guys like to rig it? Where I climb anchors are often built back from the edge a bit and I do like to be able to keep an eye on the second sometimes.
I'm thinking just stay tied in, clove hitch to carabiner on power point to get me near edge, then belay standing/sitting sideways, from harness w. atc guide (keeping anchor belayer climber in line and no slack between self and anchor).
thank you
(This post was edited by sogetthis on Sep 5, 2009, 2:06 AM)
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marc801
Sep 5, 2009, 3:01 AM
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sogetthis wrote: I do mostly single pitch, occasional short multi pitch. I was taught to direct belay the follower originally and is what I always do, either with atc guide or munter. now I'd like to start using indirect more,...
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jt512
Sep 5, 2009, 3:08 AM
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sogetthis wrote: I do mostly single pitch, occasional short multi pitch. I was taught to direct belay the follower originally and is what I always do, either with atc guide or munter. now I'd like to start using indirect more, and am wondering what are some of the favorite ways you guys like to rig it? Where I climb anchors are often built back from the edge a bit and I do like to be able to keep an eye on the second sometimes. I'm thinking just stay tied in, clove hitch to carabiner on power point to get me near edge, then belay standing/sitting sideways, from harness w. atc guide (keeping anchor belayer climber in line and no slack between self and anchor). thank you
*plonk*
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sogetthis
Sep 5, 2009, 4:01 AM
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Just another tool to be familiar with and have ready to use in the tool box, so to speak.
It seems like it might lend itself to extending out a bit easier than direct. Sometimes I extend direct belay via what I've seen described as "rope direct" (not a redirect) in JL's climbing anchor book, and that is fairly simple.
cheers
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majid_sabet
Sep 5, 2009, 4:23 AM
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sogetthis wrote: I do mostly single pitch, occasional short multi pitch. I was taught to direct belay the follower originally and is what I always do, either with atc guide or munter. now I'd like to start using indirect more, and am wondering what are some of the favorite ways you guys like to rig it? Where I climb anchors are often built back from the edge a bit and I do like to be able to keep an eye on the second sometimes. I'm thinking just stay tied in, clove hitch to carabiner on power point to get me near edge, then belay standing/sitting sideways, from harness w. atc guide (keeping anchor belayer climber in line and no slack between self and anchor). thank you
whats belay off harness is going to offer you ?
nothing, it is just a 170 lbs of extra weight on your ball*
just extend the anchor and belay direct and let the anchor do its job
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Sep 5, 2009, 4:29 AM)
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uni_jim
Sep 6, 2009, 10:46 PM
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magic sandbox!
yer binerz not lokked!!!
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seatbeltpants
Sep 7, 2009, 3:00 AM
Post #9 of 17
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and the other one's triaxially loaded?
steve
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uni_jim
Sep 7, 2009, 3:05 AM
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good catch steve!
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seatbeltpants
Sep 7, 2009, 3:35 AM
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someone needs to watch out for him 
steve
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majid_sabet
Sep 7, 2009, 4:25 AM
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uni_jim wrote: good catch steve!
what do you think that biner is for ?
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majid_sabet
Sep 7, 2009, 4:34 AM
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seatbeltpants wrote: someone needs to watch out for him steve
I normally do not attach myself to master
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Sep 7, 2009, 3:27 PM)
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uni_jim
Sep 7, 2009, 4:57 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: uni_jim wrote: good catch steve! what do you think that biner is for ?
clipping one thing to the next silly!
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LostinMaine
Sep 7, 2009, 4:34 PM
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sogetthis wrote: I'm thinking just stay tied in, clove hitch to carabiner on power point to get me near edge, then belay standing/sitting sideways, from harness w. atc guide (keeping anchor belayer climber in line and no slack between self and anchor). thank you
You will be exhausted belaying like this (especially if the second falls or there is a lot of rope drag). If you're asking this question, I highly recommend not even "practicing" something like this.
Stick with your direct belay or climb with someone to show you exactly how to extend your MP and belay directly off of it.
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sogetthis
Sep 9, 2009, 6:23 PM
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LostinMaine wrote: sogetthis wrote: I'm thinking just stay tied in, clove hitch to carabiner on power point to get me near edge, then belay standing/sitting sideways, from harness w. atc guide (keeping anchor belayer climber in line and no slack between self and anchor). thank you You will be exhausted belaying like this (especially if the second falls or there is a lot of rope drag). If you're asking this question, I highly recommend not even "practicing" something like this. Stick with your direct belay or climb with someone to show you exactly how to extend your MP and belay directly off of it.
thanks for the reply. Yep I certainly wouldn't use it in that circumstance, nor in general. Again to me it's just a tool in the tool box I can see times where one might want to use it.
For example if for some reason you were forced to build an anchor that was less than bomber, and retreat wasn't an option, indirect belay lets you take some of the force off the anchor if the second falls.
cheers
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sogetthis
Sep 9, 2009, 6:25 PM
Post #17 of 17
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cool article on extending a direct belay thanks for the link hadn't seen that.
One of the better methods I've seen for that.
cheers
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