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cjon3s


Aug 18, 2009, 10:50 PM
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Re: [jt512] Screening test for n00bs [In reply to]
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I;d just like to know a few things.

What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.

And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?


kriso9tails


Aug 19, 2009, 12:03 AM
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Are you being facetious, or do you really not understand?


gmggg


Aug 19, 2009, 4:57 AM
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Re: [cjon3s] Screening test for n00bs [In reply to]
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cjon3s wrote:
I;d just like to know a few things.

What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.

And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?

N00b!!!


LostinMaine


Aug 19, 2009, 6:14 AM
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Re: [cjon3s] Screening test for n00bs [In reply to]
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cjon3s wrote:
I;d just like to know a few things.

What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.

And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?

Good luck in your climbing partner search. He'll be the one carrying the walkie-talkie to communicate with his partner more responsibly.


shockabuku


Aug 19, 2009, 6:54 AM
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Re: [cjon3s] Screening test for n00bs [In reply to]
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cjon3s wrote:
I;d just like to know a few things.

What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.

And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?

Same thing that's wrong with apostrophes.


kriso9tails


Aug 19, 2009, 7:19 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
cjon3s wrote:
I;d just like to know a few things.

What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.

And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?

Same thing that's wrong with apostrophes.

They make your ass look fat.


shockabuku


Aug 19, 2009, 7:26 AM
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Re: [kriso9tails] Screening test for n00bs [In reply to]
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kriso9tails wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
cjon3s wrote:
I;d just like to know a few things.

What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.

And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?

Same thing that's wrong with apostrophes.

They make your ass look fat.

Exactly.


jt512


Aug 19, 2009, 8:16 AM
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Re: [cjon3s] Screening test for n00bs [In reply to]
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cjon3s wrote:
I;d just like to know a few things.

What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws?

Who said there's anything wrong with them?

In reply to:
I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.

And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?

Is my test nonsense? Your profile is blank. How long have you been sport climbing, and at what level do you climb?

BTW, what's wrong with an apostrophe?

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 19, 2009, 8:17 AM)


cjon3s


Aug 19, 2009, 12:27 PM
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Re: [jt512] Screening test for n00bs [In reply to]
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Seeing that I have been flamed, I am a n00b. Sorry about my misuse of the poor apostrophe.

I was not being facetious, I really did not understand.

Sorry jt.


TarHeelEMT


Sep 10, 2009, 9:56 AM
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50, which puts me just past the "visiting trad climber" category, which I am.

What's the deal with the color red?


kriso9tails


Sep 10, 2009, 2:18 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote:
What's the deal with the color red?

They wear red to hide the blood splatter on their clothes from the climbing partners they've dropped while giving shitty n00b-style belays.


TarHeelEMT


Sep 11, 2009, 4:53 PM
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I see.


rjtrials


Sep 11, 2009, 7:20 PM
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I got 22 but my 'leather' shoes are either Testarossa's or Scarpa Mago's. Although my harness is not a Petzl, i do climb in the new-ish Arc'Teryx harness, so i gave myself the 5 points begrudgingly. I also gained points on the quickdraws because about half my gear is either petzl dogbones or biners. all my shit is so old, beaten, tattered and worn, my draws aren't dividend by brand. Instead dogbone and biner are mated according to length and how much of a groove/notch the biner has or does not have.
I think i really only earned 2 points for my metolius dogbones that used to be red.

What is the official ruling JT??

RJ


jt512


Sep 13, 2009, 10:48 PM
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rjtrials wrote:
I got 22 but my 'leather' shoes are either Testarossa's or Scarpa Mago's. Although my harness is not a Petzl, i do climb in the new-ish Arc'Teryx harness, so i gave myself the 5 points begrudgingly. I also gained points on the quickdraws because about half my gear is either petzl dogbones or biners. all my shit is so old, beaten, tattered and worn, my draws aren't dividend by brand. Instead dogbone and biner are mated according to length and how much of a groove/notch the biner has or does not have.
I think i really only earned 2 points for my metolius dogbones that used to be red.

What is the official ruling JT??

RJ

The test isn't designed for self-scoring. So, you have to ask yourself: how would an experienced sport climber score you. He'd probably notice the age of your draws and give you the benefit of the doubt on the mixed brands.

Jay


roughster


Sep 13, 2009, 11:17 PM
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I scored a 10: Non-Petzl draws (though I have many Petzls) and a non-metolious rope bag (Fuck paying, I use a homemade synthetic table cloth with a elastic band to hold it together. Works like a charm.

Looks like a pretty good scale/indicator to me.


dingus


Sep 14, 2009, 5:36 AM
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roughster wrote:
with a elastic band to hold it together. Works like a charm.

That's hilarious roughster. My buddy Angus went deep into the BC with another partner of mine, it was their first (and only) back country adventure together solely in each other's company.

My other buddy was Mr High Tech, Goretex coated sleeping bag that compressed into the size of a walnut and cost a thousand bucks, etc.

They get to the bivi site and its drizzling.

Angus whips out his custom SHOWER CURTAIN BIVI TENT, layys it over his $50 polywhatever bag and is snoring before Mr Goretex can close his open mouth.

True.

And they never DID climb together again after that, but that's another story

DMT


billcoe_


Sep 14, 2009, 5:48 PM
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dingus wrote:
There are all sorts of noobs, like unpolished turds every damn one of them.DMT

I had to read this twice to catch the inference. LOL!

For myself, JT already called me out on it so sure I'll admit I'm a sport noob, but sometimes high end sport non-n00bs take pity on my sorry trad ass and drag my sorry butt out for some sport: but everytime I get home, I feel so dirty....and used. I just don't know how you all do it all the time.


bennydh


Sep 14, 2009, 6:01 PM
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I try to bitch and complain a lot whilst pointing out all the manufactured or glued holds when I sport climb. Somehow, I feel a little less dirty by doing this, and little less like a desperate climbing whore when I can't get on some nice trad line.

Blush


notapplicable


Sep 17, 2009, 12:38 PM
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Not too bad. 40 points total and I agree with 30 of em. No GriGri, an ATC and no stick clip are definitely universal signes of the sport nOObage. If I actually cared I might would argue about the non-petzl harness and draws though.


jt512


Sep 17, 2009, 12:42 PM
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notapplicable wrote:
Not too bad. 40 points total and I agree with 30 of em. No GriGri, an ATC and no stick clip are definitely universal signes of the sport nOObage. If I actually cared I might would argue about the non-petzl harness and draws though.

It has to be an ATC-something, and it doesn't matter what something is, as long as it isn't blank. No points for a plain vanilla ATC.

Jay


notapplicable


Sep 17, 2009, 2:03 PM
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jt512 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
Not too bad. 40 points total and I agree with 30 of em. No GriGri, an ATC and no stick clip are definitely universal signes of the sport nOObage. If I actually cared I might would argue about the non-petzl harness and draws though.

It has to be an ATC-something, and it doesn't matter what something is, as long as it isn't blank. No points for a plain vanilla ATC.

Jay


Woot!! 30 points for me.

I was given slight pause by the phrasing on that one but decided to err on the side of over scoring. Probably a subconscious thing; sport only makes up 17.9211% of my clilmbing so I was honestly expecting to score higher.


t_camuti


Oct 4, 2009, 6:44 AM
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My regular partner is a 63 yr old climber who has been climbing longer than I have been alive (and I'm over 30). His scoring:

Risk factor 1: Helmet
Climber is wearing a helmet belaying: 10 points


Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes
*Exception 2: Climber's shoes are EBs: -100 points
extra negative points for multiple home resoles with shoe goo that you can count like geologic layers of rock?

Risk factor 3: Harness
Any modern harness not made by Petzl: 5 points

Risk factor 4: Belay device(s)
Does not have a grigri: 10 points
how many points for using any excuse to use the Munther hitch? If he can't see his belay device, usually it is just on his rear gear loop, he just whips up a Munther and uses that for belay/ rappel.


Risk factor 5: Quick draws
Anything other than Petzl: 5 points


Risk factor 6: Rope bag
None: 20 points

Risk factor 7: Stick clip
None: 10 points

Risk factor 8: Unnecessary equipment
10 points for each locking carabiner on the climber's harness not clipped to a belay device
= 30 points

Risk factor 9: REI
0 points

Risk factor 10: The color red
0 points

Scoring:
-10 points

Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do.

Good test!


backclipped


Oct 22, 2009, 7:18 AM
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It's been some time since I've visited this website. Some things have changed (like the face of the site) and some things haven't jt512 is still a jackass. Please place me in your "kill file", you f#$ing tool.
In reply to:


dolphja


Oct 22, 2009, 8:36 AM
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Risk factor 1: Helmet
Climber has a helmet at the crag: 2 points

Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes
Climber's shoes, five tenif not slippers, are made from natural leather: 10 points*

Risk factor 3: Harness
Any modern harness not made by Petzl:BD!!! FK!! 5 points

Risk factor 4: Belay device(s)
Give the climber 10^n points, where n is the number of belay devices on the climber's harness in excess of one.
In addition:
Does not have a grigri: 10 points
Has a Cinch: 10 points

Risk factor 5: Quick draws
Anything other than Petzl: 5 points x 10 =50
Petzl logo on dogbones: -50 points x 5 = 250
-200 what if it's a mix?

Risk factor 6: Rope bag
RED metolius- gonna have to add 1 point for that one

Risk factor 7: Stick clip
None: 10 points FK!

Risk factor 8: Unnecessary equipment
10^n points, where n is the number of items girth hitched to the climber's harness
10 points for each locking carabiner on the climber's harness not clipped to a belay device x 2!!! AHHH 20 points Pirate FKING runners for anchors


Risk factor 9: REI

Risk factor 10: The color red
1 point for each red item among the climber's gear, unless the gear is unscratched; then, 10 points.
oh boy... need a calculator. FK = 11 more points


squishy654 wrote:I am ex-Army...

+10

army surplus (not really, just gear taken from in service) T-10C paracheute pack tray that i've been using as a crag bag for the past 15 years -10 points (bonus!)

desert camo patrol bag for trad gear -10 points

digital camo camelback for long wall routes -10 points

And the tally is...Unsure...Shocked... -141 (i'm thinkin' all those Petzl draws saved my life!)

i'm gonna have to add something to this.

Has not led 5.12 or higher in the past 5 yearsFrown "injury or not" +200 POINTS

Scoring:
100 or more: Run away.
5099 points: High n00b probability. Climb with at your own risk.
2549 points: Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber.
024 points: Probably an experienced sport climber.
Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do.


(This post was edited by dolphja on Oct 22, 2009, 8:40 AM)


dolphja


Oct 22, 2009, 8:37 AM
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dolphja wrote:
Risk factor 1: Helmet
Climber has a helmet at the crag: 2 points

Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes
Climber's shoes, five tenif not slippers, are made from natural leather: 10 points*

Risk factor 3: Harness
Any modern harness not made by Petzl:BD!!! FK!! 5 points

Risk factor 4: Belay device(s)
Give the climber 10^n points, where n is the number of belay devices on the climber's harness in excess of one.
In addition:
Does not have a grigri: 10 points
Has a Cinch: 10 points

Risk factor 5: Quick draws
Anything other than Petzl: 5 points x 10 =50
Petzl logo on dogbones: -50 points x 5 = 250
-200 what if it's a mix?

Risk factor 6: Rope bag
RED metolius- gonna have to add 1 point for that one

Risk factor 7: Stick clip
None: 10 points FK!

Risk factor 8: Unnecessary equipment
10^n points, where n is the number of items girth hitched to the climber's harness
10 points for each locking carabiner on the climber's harness not clipped to a belay device x 2!!! AHHH 20 points Pirate FKING runners for anchors


Risk factor 9: REI

Risk factor 10: The color red
1 point for each red item among the climber's gear, unless the gear is unscratched; then, 10 points.
oh boy... need a calculator. FK = 11 more points


squishy654 wrote:I am ex-Army...

+10

army surplus (not really, just gear taken from in service) T-10C paracheute pack tray that i've been using as a crag bag for the past 15 years -10 points (bonus!)

desert camo patrol bag for trad gear -10 points

digital camo camelback for long wall routes -10 points

And the tally is...Unsure...Shocked... -141 (i'm thinkin' all those Petzl draws saved my life!)

i'm gonna have to add something to this.

Has not led 5.12 or higher in the past 5 yearsFrown "injury or not"

Scoring:
100 or more: Run away.
5099 points: High n00b probability. Climb with at your own risk.
2549 points: Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber.
024 points: Probably an experienced sport climber.
Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do.

that would put me in the Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber category Mad

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