|
oldsalt
Sep 16, 2009, 2:11 AM
Post #1 of 117
(18490 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 919
|
This weekend, I was about halfway up a T-Wall 5.easy trad lead when I got to experience my first such fall. My last piece was a medium nut slotted into a nice notch.
I was about 6 feet above and 6 feet to the right of two nuts placed in opposition. I hadn't like the way that the large hex was sitting, so I backed it up.
I did not double the medium nut. About 4 or 5 feet higher, my right foot slipped and I started to accelerate downward at 9.8 m/sec squared, minus much friction on my back, ankle, and elbow.
I slid far enough to realize that one or more pieces had blown. Now, the point of the post...
What thoughts have you had while "in transit?"
Mine were:
1. That last nut failed.
2. Will they all fail?
3. Will it hurt when I deck?
(Donna, you made a great catch! Don't second guess yourself.)
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Sep 16, 2009, 2:14 AM
Post #2 of 117
(18484 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
If I have time to think, I usually think "Am I going to stop before I hit the ground?"
|
|
|
|
|
colatownkid
Sep 16, 2009, 2:20 AM
Post #3 of 117
(18474 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 512
|
oldsalt wrote: This weekend, I was about halfway up a T-Wall 5.easy trad lead when I got to experience my first such fall. My last piece was a medium nut slotted into a nice notch. I was about 6 feet above and 6 feet to the right of two nuts placed in opposition. I hadn't like the way that the large hex was sitting, so I backed it up. I did not double the medium nut. About 4 or 5 feet higher, my right foot slipped and I started to accelerate downward at 9.8 m/sec squared, minus much friction on my back, ankle, and elbow. I slid far enough to realize that one or more pieces had blown. Now, the point of the post... What thoughts have you had while "in transit?" Mine were: 1. That last nut failed. 2. Will they all fail? 3. Will it hurt when I deck? (Donna, you made a great catch! Don't second guess yourself.)
if there is enough time to have a coherent, memorable, complete thought, it's typically, "man, this is taking a lot longer than it's supposed to." this is occasionally followed by "why am i upside down?"
|
|
|
|
|
freedan
Sep 16, 2009, 2:34 AM
Post #4 of 117
(18451 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2006
Posts: 39
|
Oh shit....
That is about all that went through my mind on a recent 20' on a sand bagged 5.8 after pumping out and failing on a groveling mantel to a sloped ledge. Hanging there I gave thanks to the #2 BD that didn't budge above me and the .75 that did its job off the belay.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Sep 16, 2009, 3:48 AM
Post #5 of 117
(18391 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
oldsalt wrote: This weekend, I was about halfway up a T-Wall 5.easy trad lead when I got to experience my first such fall. My last piece was a medium nut slotted into a nice notch. I was about 6 feet above and 6 feet to the right of two nuts placed in opposition. I hadn't like the way that the large hex was sitting, so I backed it up. I did not double the medium nut. About 4 or 5 feet higher, my right foot slipped and I started to accelerate downward at 9.8 m/sec squared, minus much friction on my back, ankle, and elbow. I slid far enough to realize that one or more pieces had blown. Now, the point of the post... What thoughts have you had while "in transit?" Mine were: 1. That last nut failed. 2. Will they all fail? 3. Will it hurt when I deck? (Donna, you made a great catch! Don't second guess yourself.)
Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
villageidiot
Sep 16, 2009, 3:55 AM
Post #6 of 117
(18383 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2005
Posts: 104
|
"I wonder if a thirty second introduction to belaying with a gri-gri was sufficient?"
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Sep 16, 2009, 4:30 AM
Post #7 of 117
(18368 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
jt512 wrote: oldsalt wrote: This weekend, I was about halfway up a T-Wall 5.easy trad lead when I got to experience my first such fall. My last piece was a medium nut slotted into a nice notch. I was about 6 feet above and 6 feet to the right of two nuts placed in opposition. I hadn't like the way that the large hex was sitting, so I backed it up. I did not double the medium nut. About 4 or 5 feet higher, my right foot slipped and I started to accelerate downward at 9.8 m/sec squared, minus much friction on my back, ankle, and elbow. I slid far enough to realize that one or more pieces had blown. Now, the point of the post... What thoughts have you had while "in transit?" Mine were: 1. That last nut failed. 2. Will they all fail? 3. Will it hurt when I deck? (Donna, you made a great catch! Don't second guess yourself.) Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay
What he said.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Sep 16, 2009, 4:35 AM
Post #8 of 117
(18364 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
And if this climb was "5.Easy" why didn't you take the time to place good gear?
|
|
|
|
|
nattfodd
Sep 16, 2009, 5:43 AM
Post #9 of 117
(18338 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 23, 2009
Posts: 85
|
I just took my first whipper on gear three days ago. I didn't think much during the actual fall, but in the split second where I felt like I was about to go down much faster than planned, I remember saying to myself "Hum, this is going to be interesting". The gear held.
In sport, I have thought a couple times "Hey, I'm still falling, what about that" on long whippers. But never fear. That usually comes afterward.
(This post was edited by nattfodd on Sep 16, 2009, 5:44 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Sep 16, 2009, 8:05 AM
Post #10 of 117
(18299 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
Mine is easy
1- I do not climb so that solve a lot of problems
2- when I do, ohh not again
3- yorrrgoona die
4-you will be in I&A by 6 PM
5-DO NOT FALL , DO NOT DIE AND DO NOT LET THEM READ AND analyze YOUR Fuc*up IN RC
Have a safe climb
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Sep 20, 2009, 3:41 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
king_rat
Sep 16, 2009, 10:53 AM
Post #11 of 117
(18278 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365
|
I can't say i think about a lot during a fall, depending on how long the fall, I might get as far as "oh shit"
|
|
|
|
|
stabla
Sep 16, 2009, 1:21 PM
Post #12 of 117
(18220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2005
Posts: 139
|
Falling...
My mind tends to go completely blank during the actual "air time".
However, most of my reflections come during hours or even days after the fall. I begin wondering/asking skeptical questions such as:
If the last nut failed and I crater what will I be giving up due to near fatal injuries? (ability to walk etc)
Is falling really that much fun? Shouldn't every part of climbing be fun?
Is the adventure of trad climbing (in NC) :insert: macho/purist NC trad ethic line here :insert: really so rewarding that crippling myself is worth it?
I guess falling always makes me ask bigger questions. I have heard people do this after all near death experiences (climbing related or not). During times of hardship people begin to dig deep existentially and ask meaningful questions. I urge everyone to attempt to ask these questions when you look up at your next big objective.
When I look at a route its all about risk versus reward. Will the beautiful view up top, comraderie, and movement over stone outweigh the very real possibilty of:
A. rockfall
B. an actual climbing fall due to pump
C. sparse run-out gear
...the factors above can have serious consequences!
Climbing in my short experience (about 8 years) comes down to two things: being a safe competent climber who knows when to turn back or push it and LUCK.
So the next time you epic (fall, bivy etc) and make it back to the car alive. Be grateful...this universe is very old and completely careless about your existence. So slam a cold tallboy of your choice and rejoice in your consciousness. For we play a very dangerous game that involves alot of high risk and luck!
|
|
|
|
|
budman
Sep 16, 2009, 1:36 PM
Post #13 of 117
(18206 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
|
My thoughts while falling. "Some people actually pay for this free fall feeling".
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Sep 16, 2009, 1:50 PM
Post #14 of 117
(18187 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
majid_sabet wrote: Mine is easy 1- I do not climb so that solve a lot of problems 2- when I do, ohh not again 3- yorrrgoona die 4-you will be in I&A by 6 PM 5-DO NOT FALL , DO NOT DIE AND DO NOT LET THEM READ AND analyze YOUR Fuc*up IN RC Have a safe climb
nice.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Sep 16, 2009, 2:40 PM
Post #15 of 117
(18158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
I typically think "ah, dammit. Getting there was a ton of work, now I have to do it again".
Just like Jay, I've never had a piece fail while free climbing. If the gear is questionable, I simply choose not to fall, either by backing off or, you know, not falling.
The trick is, it is entirely by luck that most people survive long enough to develop the experience to know before they start up if they're likely to fall or not. You're not gonna know until you fall on it if your pro will hold, but you'll not know your own limits until you go beyond them (and fall). Catch-22, I know. It just illustrates the utility of sport climbing in the process of climbing harder without dying.
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Sep 16, 2009, 3:35 PM
Post #16 of 117
(18111 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
Not that I've taken many falls that I'd consider big, small hops not usually enough time to realize it and form a thought. Longest fall was like a 25 foot pendulum/whipper, I knew I was coming off and couldn't do aything about it, my thoughts were not even of the gear (bomber red camalot) but more like, shit,shit, SHIT!, fuuuuuck, I hope I stop before that slab... ended up with my feet just touching so I sat down gently enough with rope stretch to fall backwards and ended up head first with my torso hanging off the edge (slab was the top of a roof) on my back down the slab. First thought, "huh, that gear really works."
|
|
|
|
|
dreday3000
Sep 16, 2009, 3:48 PM
Post #17 of 117
(18099 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 15, 2006
Posts: 566
|
majid_sabet wrote: Mine is easy 1- I do not climb so that solve a lot of problems 2- when I do, ohh not again 3- yorrrgoona die 4-you will be in I&A by 6 PM 5-DO NOT FALL , DO NOT DIE AND DO NOT LET THEM READ AND analyze YOUR Fuc*up IN RC Have a safe climb
Quite possibly the best Majid post I've read.
|
|
|
|
|
hansundfritz
Sep 16, 2009, 4:13 PM
Post #18 of 117
(18082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 139
|
Not quite the same thing, but a similar thought process --
I got hit by a car once on my bike as I was rushing to make a train. I flew over the hood and landed on the other side.
I remember that it took an incredibly long time for the whole thing to take place -- long enough for me to have a few thoughts:
1. Oh crap, now I'm going to miss the train and maybe screw up the rest of my summer travel plans.
2. How much is it going to cost to fix the bike?
3. I wonder which hospital they'll take me to and whether my folks will make the trip to see me or whether I'll get released soon enough so they won't have to spend tons of money on plane tickets and hotel rooms.
4. I hope I land safely.
I kind of rolled and landed on my feet. The bike was wrecked. I picked it up and ran for the station and made the train. The car was also pretty wrecked -- flat tire, dented quarter panel, shattered windshield. The driver was half-drunk, so he was relieved that I was alive, and we took about 15 seconds to agree to just forget about it and keep moving.
Anyway, it seemed like I was in the air a long time -- plenty of time to think things over.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Sep 16, 2009, 4:23 PM
Post #19 of 117
(18061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Most of my trad falls have been while roped soloing. This leads to various thoughts while ranging from:
WWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
to
Oh SSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHIiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
to
Come on, please hold.
with a "Holy shite! I can't believe that held!" afterwards.
Aid falls typically have thoughts more along the lines of:
Woah! ugh, 1, ugh 2, ugh 3... phewww... woah, ahhh, 4, 5, 6...... WWWWWWHHHHOOOOOOOO YEAH!!!!!!!! #7 held!
(This post was edited by the_climber on Sep 16, 2009, 5:14 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
unrest
Sep 16, 2009, 4:57 PM
Post #20 of 117
(18031 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2009
Posts: 196
|
Funny you'd ask this. The other day I was doing a roped solo on gear. I was 90% up the pitch and got to a place where I had not tied a backup knot under my SP and clipped it to my harness. I was about 6 feet above my last piece. I was holding on by my right pointer and middle finger to a sloper that offered a marginal side-pull at best. My left hand had nothing. I reached back thinking, "You dip-sh _ _ you should have tied the backup." So I grabbed a locker. Clipped it onto my feed line and twisted the biner with my left hand about 4 times and clipped it on. Not a knot, not a hitch but better than air. I then moved to my next thought. Which was:
" I know exactly which piece will blow and I'm above it. This shouldn't be a big deal then. I'm just going to jump."
As I started to think about how to jump I realized, "You dumb-ass just down climb to that plate sized ledge you were just on." So I did and it was over. Placed a cam and clipped. Tied a backup and then moved right past with no trouble.
All of that took about 30 seconds but once I topped out and replayed it in my head it seemed to take forever. I top-roped it then went back down and purposely fell on the piece I thought would blow and it held a 6' fall.
I climbed a few hours. Cleaned it all up and went home.
|
|
|
|
|
whippersnapper
Sep 16, 2009, 5:06 PM
Post #21 of 117
(18015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 9, 2009
Posts: 12
|
On larger falls, I have the total cliche "time slows down" experience. It's like another part of my brain takes over and I'm just watching and listening to it (same thing happened back in grade school the rare time I would get into a fight).
Basically this part of my brain covers things like: "okay you're going to swing this way so get your feet up", "the rope is behind your arm so move it", etc.
I'm curious if anyone else has this type of experience.
|
|
|
|
|
Gmburns2000
Sep 16, 2009, 5:25 PM
Post #22 of 117
(17990 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
|
I typically try think about my last piece and where I'm falling to. Honestly, I try to think where I'm going to land both if my last piece holds or doesn't.
However, I find that a lot of falls are over before I even knew they started. That was the case on Cannon about a month ago. I slipped and before I knew it the rope was tight.
Still, I had a lot going through my mind on this fall, and I was later rather surprised at how much info I processed in such a short period of time.
|
|
|
|
|
Stormeh
Sep 16, 2009, 6:12 PM
Post #23 of 117
(17938 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2008
Posts: 73
|
jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay
Not surprising, isn't it rare for shiny new bolts to fail? 
|
|
|
|
|
jorgegonzalez
Sep 16, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #24 of 117
(17913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 17, 2005
Posts: 144
|
Usually the fall is over before I have a chance to think. About the only thing going on in my brain is something to the effect of: "What the F**k?"
On occasion I wonder if I'm going to make the 6:00 p.m. news.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Sep 16, 2009, 7:49 PM
Post #25 of 117
(17848 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
Stormeh wrote: jt512 wrote: Don't know. I've never had a piece fail free climbing. Jay Not surprising, isn't it rare for shiny new bolts to fail?
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
