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socalclimber
Sep 11, 2009, 12:17 AM
Post #51 of 92
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Been there done that many times.
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chopperjohn
Sep 22, 2009, 7:07 PM
Post #52 of 92
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Thats the story of my mediocre climbing life. I have lazy climbing ethic most of the time wondering around the crag start one chicken out repeatedly failing but when I'm on I'm on this is what keeps me climbing.
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CrazyPetie
Sep 22, 2009, 7:52 PM
Post #53 of 92
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Of course everybody has those uneasy feelings sometimes, especially on the first route of the day. The difference between climbers and posers is the ability to change that thought process at will. It usually happens when you pick the route you want to do a few days ahead of time. Then when you get there you make up excuses; this is the problem. If your a climber, be a climber. Do the route you wanna do, otherwise what the hell are you even doin there? You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day.
This is a mental tool i use to get over sketchy thoughts. I just ask myself if i'm a climber or pretending to be a climber. Basically forcing myself to just start climbing, because once i'm a dozen feet off the ground my instincts will do their job. The more you think about it, the harder it feels. Its not like i would be dissatisfied doing 5.9's all day, but that wasn't the goal. If you bail on your recreational goals what does that say about your practical life goals? The way you live will reflect on the way you climb and vise versa.
Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint. It can even be listening to your favorite song before you start climbing. You gotta find what works for you. And you gotta remember its a playground out there, quit being a pussy and have fun. Its not supposed to feel like work when you climb hard routes. I've had bad days from being too hung over, but i've also had really good hung over days. The fact is there is no real excuse and you have to believe that the only thing holding you back is yourself.
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milesenoell
Sep 23, 2009, 5:56 AM
Post #54 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day.
In reply to: Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint.
So it's either get high at home or get high and climb? Is there any scenario when you don't get high?
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cracklover
Sep 23, 2009, 2:36 PM
Post #55 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: Of course everybody has those uneasy feelings sometimes, especially on the first route of the day. The difference between climbers and posers is the ability to change that thought process at will. It usually happens when you pick the route you want to do a few days ahead of time. Then when you get there you make up excuses; this is the problem. If your a climber, be a climber. Do the route you wanna do, otherwise what the hell are you even doin there? You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day. This is a mental tool i use to get over sketchy thoughts. I just ask myself if i'm a climber or pretending to be a climber. Basically forcing myself to just start climbing, because once i'm a dozen feet off the ground my instincts will do their job. The more you think about it, the harder it feels. Its not like i would be dissatisfied doing 5.9's all day, but that wasn't the goal. If you bail on your recreational goals what does that say about your practical life goals? The way you live will reflect on the way you climb and vise versa. Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint. It can even be listening to your favorite song before you start climbing. You gotta find what works for you. And you gotta remember its a playground out there, quit being a pussy and have fun. Its not supposed to feel like work when you climb hard routes. I've had bad days from being too hung over, but i've also had really good hung over days. The fact is there is no real excuse and you have to believe that the only thing holding you back is yourself.
Hey CP, I appreciate your input, but if I'm reading you right, the gist of it is: sack up.
If I'm stuck up in the middle of a wall, sure. You gotta do what you gotta do. But when I'm looking at an ankle-breaking fall at the least, and have no idea how I'm going to avoid taking that fall, and retreat is easy and painless, you better believe I'm going to back down, every time.
Cheers,
GO
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cracklover
Sep 23, 2009, 2:41 PM
Post #56 of 92
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Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile.
GO
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roughster
Sep 23, 2009, 2:48 PM
Post #57 of 92
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My 1st day at any new area I haven't been to is often like this. I have also had them at my standard hangouts as well. If someone says they haven't ever felt like this, I would be inclined to disbelieve them.
No one can be at their best every day. That's why the term "peaking" was coined, because someday your at the top of your game.
However, in order for a peak to exist, there must also be a valley.
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petsfed
Sep 23, 2009, 4:20 PM
Post #58 of 92
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Saturday afternoon was, in fact, one of those days.
Mind you, saturday morning was brilliant. Warmed up on a 5.7 offwidth, followed a 10b offwidth (although the crux was hands, and I was seconding), then had lunch. After that, we headed for the main event, a 120 foot #6 friend/green big bro crack dubbed "Mainstreet". I could not even reach the crux. I tried to set an armbar with my right arm, palm a slower with the left and stand up on some sloping cobbles to get to the second (of 3) bolts and thus reach the 10a crux. No dice. I couldn't move. The arm bar would blow, the sloper palm would blow, or the smears would blow, EVERY TIME. And I was seconding here too. It was a little ridiculous. Fortunately, we had a 70m rope, so the leader could rap and clean the gear. Still, it was humiliating. I had climbed harder that morning.
The lesson learned, of course, is to go lead some more 5.8 and 5.9 offwidths and go suffer on Jay's Solo and Big Pink and then come back to Mainstreet, without the toprope. Nothing like a little overload training to accelerate the learning process.
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CrazyPetie
Sep 23, 2009, 4:46 PM
Post #59 of 92
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cracklover wrote: Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile. GO
I just started to get into it. I realize that its alot more heady, and i got a little taste of that. But most of the concepts are still the same. I'm young enough to say, "If i fall i fall, and hopefully the gear will hold!" I know that sounds reckless. I havent done any trad hard enough to really shake me up yet, so i guess you could say my post applies mostly to sport climbing. But I've done a good bit of soloing, even up to 5.10's.
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CrazyPetie
Sep 23, 2009, 4:48 PM
Post #60 of 92
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cracklover
Sep 23, 2009, 5:00 PM
Post #61 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile. GO I just started to get into it. I realize that its alot more heady, and i got a little taste of that. But most of the concepts are still the same. I'm young enough to say, "If i fall i fall, and hopefully the gear will hold!" I know that sounds reckless.
Reckless? Maybe. Ignorant? Definitely. There are lots of times in trad climbing where falling is about as good an idea as falling while soloing.
Good luck!
GO
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milesenoell
Sep 23, 2009, 6:00 PM
Post #62 of 92
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You really take a whole week off for a probation hearing with no smoking? I know hippies who haven't skipped more than a day in years.
Get a medical marijuana card and you'll be a lot happier. All you need is some serious spinal damage to qualify and from the sound of it, that may not be entirely unlikely to happen.
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CrazyPetie
Sep 23, 2009, 7:37 PM
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skibum14
Sep 23, 2009, 10:24 PM
Post #65 of 92
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If this is the attitude you got from reading The Rock Warrior's way, you definitely need to lay off the dope.
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CrazyPetie
Sep 23, 2009, 10:56 PM
Post #66 of 92
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cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure. Nope. GO
You gotta read it. Its an instruction manual to have less of "those days". I'm surprized there are serious climbers out there that havent read it yet.
The "dope" has nothing to do with my mentality about climbing...
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cracklover
Sep 24, 2009, 12:25 AM
Post #67 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure. Nope. GO You gotta read it.
I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement.
GO
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notapplicable
Sep 24, 2009, 12:33 AM
Post #68 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure. Nope. GO You gotta read it. Its an instruction manual to have less of "those days". I'm surprized there are serious climbers out there that havent read it yet.
What makes you think that most - let alone all "serious" climbers (what ever that means) - need to read self help books?
That strikes me as starkly anti-thetical to the culture and spirit of this sport. At least I hope that is the case.
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CrazyPetie
Sep 24, 2009, 12:34 AM
Post #69 of 92
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cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure. Nope. GO You gotta read it. I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement. GO
Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
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notapplicable
Sep 24, 2009, 1:58 AM
Post #70 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own.
Oh the posterity!
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notapplicable
Sep 24, 2009, 2:17 AM
Post #71 of 92
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cracklover wrote: You ever have one of those days? GO
Oh yeah, I've had days like that.
I once backed off a route I had previously soloed because I couldn't "get good gear". Thats right, I got punked down by a 5.7 crack climb and my excuse was the gear.
IT'S A 5.7 CRACK, A TWO YEAR OLD COULD GET GEAR ON THE THING!!
Yep, I've had days like that. You bet I have.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Sep 24, 2009, 2:19 AM)
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 24, 2009, 2:57 PM
Post #72 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure. Nope. GO You gotta read it. I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement. GO Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
Just because you give advice, doesn't mean it's good. The Rock Warrior's Way is a nice read and important book for a very specific target audience. To even suggest that any serious climber must read it is ridiculous.
Second, to suggest that anyone who has a "bad head" day is a pussy is ignorant. When you leave the safety of your bolts and accumulate a fraction of the experience that cracklover has, then I'd like to hear how your opinion has changed. Until then, just because you have a keyboard, that doesn't make you an expert.
Peace. Josh
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cracklover
Sep 24, 2009, 2:57 PM
Post #73 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: cracklover wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure. Nope. GO You gotta read it. I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement. GO Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
Ha! No, the pot has nothing to do with my opinion. What I see is someone who hasn't figured out yet that trad climbing doesn't have the same rules as sport, and thus are advertising a ridiculously stupid attitude, without even realizing how it sounds. You're heading for a rude awakening.
Oh, and you may well have "mental abilities way beyond my own" but I doubt it. I've never had to drug myself to send hard sport. I have absolutely no difficulty pushing myself to the limit when the falls are safe, sport or trad (my redpoint limit is only a letter grade away between the two). And I've never wanted or needed self-help books to sack up on something that's safe in the first place.
So you see why, from you, it is a lousy endorsement? If someone with a really amazing attitude who sent harder trad than me recommended it, that would be a completely different matter.
But cheers anyway!
GO
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fresh
Sep 24, 2009, 4:14 PM
Post #74 of 92
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CrazyPetie wrote: Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
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sungam
Sep 24, 2009, 4:32 PM
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fresh wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace. your ego is taking hold of you. the thousand-headed dragon is taunting you, you must draw your sword and cut off one of its heads!
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