Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


evanwish


Oct 5, 2009, 10:41 AM
Post #1 of 15 (1938 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2007
Posts: 1040

making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Background: I am currently living up Humboldt County for college and have always been obsessed with climbing and have climbed a few high Sierra peaks and many other routes where protection can be sparse or inadequate. Here in Humboldt, only a ten minute bus ride from campus is Moonstone Beach which features Karen Rock, a 70' top rope rock known for its ever changing face due to chunks of rock commonly breaking off the face and lack of cracks.

Situation: After climbing most the routes there and getting bored with the place, i decided to try leading two of the routes. The one that is the subject of my question is a 5.9 with the first nest of gear being about twenty feet up, followed by the second fifty feet up, then the bolted anchor at 70 feet. The route is all face climbing with only those two sections of crack/pods (only about foot long). My first nest of gear was in a *potentially* loose block where i was able to get a #1 cam on the right side, and a large nut on the left side, i equalized them with a sliding x and clipped it with a screamer. My thought was if the block actually shifted under weight of the cam, it would only pinch the nut in there tighter.

The QUESTION: Would it have been safer take a chance with the first nest of gear (knowing that anything involving a block is sketchy) or to run it out the 50 feet to the first piece?

Conclusion: I wasn't too concerned about it, (i was more focused on enjoying the amazing route and the crash pad placements!) but i think its one of those spur the moment decisions that should be evaluated.

thanks,
Evan


(This post was edited by evanwish on Oct 5, 2009, 10:45 AM)


hafilax


Oct 5, 2009, 10:57 AM
Post #2 of 15 (1911 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [evanwish] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sounds like you were free soloing on loose rock with an imaginary protection system and not worth the risk IMO.

As for placing marginal gear: If it's at a good stance and won't tire me out then definitely. If it will make the following moves more difficult either by plugging up holds or by sapping me of strength due to a strenuous position then I'll think twice about it and also think about backing off. If it's on a choss pile then I'll be placing a ton of gear in the chance that something... anything will hold.


shockabuku


Oct 5, 2009, 11:26 AM
Post #3 of 15 (1884 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4862

Re: [hafilax] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hafilax wrote:
Sounds like you were free soloing on loose rock with an imaginary protection system...

That.


lodi5onu


Oct 5, 2009, 11:31 AM
Post #4 of 15 (1876 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 335

Re: [shockabuku] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sounds like you wanted to tell some people online about your HUGE ballz


rockandlice


Oct 5, 2009, 11:59 AM
Post #5 of 15 (1840 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2008
Posts: 622

Re: [lodi5onu] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

lodi5onu wrote:
Sounds like you wanted to tell some people online about your HUGE ballz

That.


evanwish


Oct 5, 2009, 12:24 PM
Post #6 of 15 (1804 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2007
Posts: 1040

Re: [hafilax] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

hafilax wrote:
Sounds like you were free soloing on loose rock with an imaginary protection system and not worth the risk IMO.

As for placing marginal gear: If it's at a good stance and won't tire me out then definitely. If it will make the following moves more difficult either by plugging up holds or by sapping me of strength due to a strenuous position then I'll think twice about it and also think about backing off. If it's on a choss pile then I'll be placing a ton of gear in the chance that something... anything will hold.

yeah thats pretty much what it was..
fortunately there was a good stance/ledge to work on the first piece with two hands.

the problem with the place is that there are almost no cracks, the first crack was exposed by a large loose block that was pulled free two weeks ago, and the second crack is just a rare occurrence there


In reply to:
Sounds like you wanted to tell some people online about your HUGE ballz
well that would just be highly unproductive. The climb led to a conversation afterwards about how the best way to protect it would be and how to judge the integrity of the rock.


seatbeltpants


Oct 5, 2009, 12:44 PM
Post #7 of 15 (1787 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 9, 2008
Posts: 581

Re: [evanwish] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

evanwish wrote:
The climb led to a conversation afterwards about how the best way to protect it would be and how to judge the integrity of the rock.

best way to protect it? if you're soloing it up to 20 ft, then soloing again in the runout from say 35 to 50 feet (assuming that the first set of gear would hold a fall when you're above it but not risking a ground-fall), then hopefully protected in the last 20 feet to the anchor (though you wouldn't count on it), i'd suggest that the best way to protect it is to top rope the pile of choss.

it sounds like the climbers before you have judged the integrity of the rock and deemed it unfit for trad, or indeed sport climbing. i live near a sea cliff that sounds similar to this and have learned that just because you can put in a few pieces doesn't mean that you should. top roping is a bit shit, but killing yourself trying to climb choss is a foolish way to go.

my 2c, anyway.

steve


dingus


Oct 5, 2009, 12:52 PM
Post #8 of 15 (1777 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17392

Re: making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

"Don't Fall" is the best way to protect that route?

The rest is just mindless we weren't there internet bullshit. Put yer pecker in that upper pod... whatever. Its all imaginary to the great unwashed, ie. us.

DMT


shimanilami


Oct 5, 2009, 12:56 PM
Post #9 of 15 (1770 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [evanwish] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

What are you thinking? Bolt that fucker.


evanwish


Oct 5, 2009, 2:59 PM
Post #10 of 15 (1691 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2007
Posts: 1040

Re: [shimanilami] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

well actually it was bolted back in the 70's with quarter inchers and were poorly chopped leaving a tiny rusty stud of the bolt.

i've met quite a few people who have led the other route (5.8 with slightly better pro) there and one person who has led the 5.9


notapplicable


Oct 5, 2009, 3:09 PM
Post #11 of 15 (1684 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17766

Re: [evanwish] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Boredom can cause a person to do some strange things. I've lead a number of sport routes and TR's in similar fashion and pretty much take what gear I can get, marginal or not.


Partner angry


Oct 5, 2009, 3:14 PM
Post #12 of 15 (1675 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [evanwish] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Take an extra rope, tie overhand knots on a bite about every 10 feet or whatever and hang it from the anchor. Lead the route clipping the bites on your way up. Insta-sport route.

Totally weke but you're just fucking around anyway aren't you?


notapplicable


Oct 5, 2009, 3:29 PM
Post #13 of 15 (1655 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17766

Re: [angry] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Assuming you use a static line, thats kind of a good idea.

No doubt I would bust out laughing if I saw someone doing it IRL but still a good idea.


dingus


Oct 5, 2009, 3:30 PM
Post #14 of 15 (1650 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17392

Re: [notapplicable] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I remember skinner doing this back in the day, at Hueco.

DMT


billcoe_


Oct 9, 2009, 8:53 AM
Post #15 of 15 (1473 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4668

Re: [evanwish] making the best of what you have: leading a toprope route? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

evanwish wrote:
well actually it was bolted back in the 70's with quarter inchers and were poorly chopped leaving a tiny rusty stud of the bolt.

Called footholds....LOL


We do this because it's there....Kyle on the FA of Wounded Knee.



Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$175.73 (10% off)
$51.26 (10% off)
$6.75 (10% off)
$17.95 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook