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pollux
Nov 3, 2001, 8:35 AM
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I hit a point on a climb that there is a sloper at about a 45 degree. As soon as I release from a jug with the other hand off i come. Spent a ton of time trying to get past it and everytime I slip off. I know it is hard to help without seeing the problem but any clues what I might be doing wrong. I don't have problems with other ones but this one kicks my butt everytime.
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compclimber
Nov 3, 2001, 8:38 AM
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What kind of hold are you going to after the sloper and how far is it from the sloper? is it in the gym or outside?
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nikegirl
Nov 3, 2001, 9:13 AM
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can you skip it...
I watch this move all the time...got me..
can you skip it? Dyno to the next move?
T
[ This Message was edited by: nikegirl on 2001-11-03 12:41 ]
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jds100
Nov 3, 2001, 6:48 PM
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It's hard to make any specific suggestions, but there may be some general things to keep in mind. Try to keep your body/weight related to the hold as most advantageously for as long as you can; in other words, if you can keep your weight in and under the hold (if the grip surface is fairly parallel to the floor), then you'll have a better chance of making use of it. If it's oriented sideways (or slanted), you'll need to pull as directly straight and in/under the surface as you can. As your body comes up, you're also moving somewhat out, and the whole mechanical value of the relationship between your fingers/wrist/arm/shoulder/core tension and the hold changes. It's probably going to be a hold that you need as an intermediate, to get your feet up, to move the other hand, etc.; it's probably not a primary hold that bears most of your weight and pull. (A straight arm is usually better to bear more weight and pull.)
Find the best hand/finger placement; don't move your hand/fingers once you're on it, and don't change the orientation of the pull throughout your time on the hold; try to keep in and under the grip surface as much as possible; figure out the sequence that you need to get to better holds, and execute precisely and quickly; stay with it and meet the challenge.
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rrrADAM
Nov 3, 2001, 6:51 PM
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Get as much hand as you can on the sloper to get the best friction coefficient, and pull straight down. Do not pull away at all, you'll only peel off.
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pollux
Nov 3, 2001, 8:42 PM
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Thinking back i think there is a edge below it that i can get my foot to and bump of it to the next hold. thanks for the advice.
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hardcoredana
Nov 5, 2001, 1:00 AM
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If the sloper is the right size, and your body is in the right position, etc, it will help if you push up on the sloper with the part of your thumb that is also part of your hand.
Yeah. That makes no sense , but I don't know how to explain it any better. Don't use your thumb. Instead, squeeze the hold using the muscles in your hand that move your thumb around.
When I first started climbing, I tried to hold slopers just using my fingers. But I found that this little trick makes you use your whole hand to grab the sloper. I'm not sure if this is good advice, but it works for me. I've have explained this theory to other people, and they look at me like I'm crazy . . .
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paintinhaler
Nov 5, 2001, 1:43 AM
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after jug tap sloper for sec and then up to something else. Tha thing about slopers is not to spend time on them. If you have to use the sloper to get your feet higher you can use the "drop knee" to get closer into the rock so its harder to slide off the sloper. have fun man! vote for me
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gekolimit
Feb 21, 2002, 11:10 AM
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When you move up from the sloper (the point where your hand starts to come off and you slip) try to keep a sharp andgle with your wrists to ensure your amount of skin on the slopper doesn't change...(I hope this makes sense)
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miagi
Feb 25, 2002, 3:44 AM
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eesh, slopers. I hate em. Ive had alot of them on one route i took and i just couldnt get enough friction to keep myself on the rock. Plus the eroding rock into sand on all the holds wasnt much help either
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crackaddict
Feb 25, 2002, 4:35 AM
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What problem or climb are you talking about? Is it in AZ?
I am from AZ as well maybe I have done it and can can give you some beta.
Later.
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overlord
Mar 28, 2002, 10:12 PM
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Just hang from it and try too put ass much weight as possible on your feet. AND CHALK UP!
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sonofspork
Mar 28, 2002, 11:26 PM
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No. No. No. No.
The whole deal with slopers is body tension. You need to keep your butt in toward the rock/wall. If you can't do it, it is not because you are holding it wrong or anything, it is because your body tension sucks or your feet are in a position that makes you have to have more body tension to make the move.
Do lower abdominal excercises and oblique excercises. Cruches and sit-ups will not help much, as those are upper abdominal excercises.
-sONofSpORk
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