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zaza410
Oct 7, 2009, 3:22 AM
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Alright so you're trying a route but you cant get to the anchors to clean it... what do you do?, throw away a cam/nut + biner?
I searched and the only thing that came up was cleaning cobwebs.
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jdwynn
Oct 7, 2009, 3:27 AM
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Down-climb.
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TheRucat
Oct 7, 2009, 3:31 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=733404;search_string=bailing%20off%20trad%20route;#733404
As you can see, I searched bail off trad route, got a number of hits. It's been discussed a few times, check that thread. The answer is not as complicated as you might think. Sometimes yes, you'll have to leave something. Or you could just down climb, or lower off a piece and then rap from the top to retrieve. Also I remember seeing a version of the texas rope trick for trad, but if I remember correctly it was ridiculous.
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Couloirman
Oct 7, 2009, 3:41 AM
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clean the pitch as you downclimb. If there are sections you dont like so much that take gear but you didnt place it there cause there wasnt a need on the way up, then downclimb with a piece above you, place an intermediate piece, climb up, get the top piece and downclimb again. Dont risk bad falls to save money, but if its safe enough with good pro and falls are safe, then why not?
Or bring etriers and do some clean aid-downclimbing?
Or just leave a couple pieces and remember that your life is worth more then a cam, a nut, a few biners and a couple slings.
(This post was edited by Couloirman on Oct 7, 2009, 3:43 AM)
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zaza410
Oct 7, 2009, 3:47 AM
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Much thanks, great info :D
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salamanizer
Oct 7, 2009, 4:06 AM
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dugl33
Oct 7, 2009, 4:18 AM
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Your options include (but may not be limited to) ...
1.) downclimb to the ground, cleaning your gear as you go.
2.) aid up past the difficulty or to the anchors by placing gear and yarding on it or standing up in an attached runner. this is especially usefull with a continous crack. in other words cheat. shamelessly. french free!
3.) lower off a piece of gear or bolt, cleaning the rest of the gear as you go. note that this is dangerous in that if the piece you're lowering from pulls you are going to risk a big fall or hitting the deck as you clean more and more gear. so the piece should be bomber or use multiple pieces. this gear will become booty for whoever finds it, although maybe through good karma it will make its way back to you. if you are more than half a rope length up you'll have to do this more than once.
3a.) if you happen to be trailing another rope, you can rap with the spare rope, while your partner takes in slack on the lead rope, and you can clean as you go. this way is much safer than option 3.
4.) lower off the top gear, (leaving all gear in place) and let your partner try. (Its a good idea for your partner to be tied into the other end of the rope -- more than a few people have been dropped while getting lowered from more than half a rope length up)
5.) ask nearby wiry and honed looking strangers if they can lead it and set a top rope. offering beer or weed helps.
6.) find another way up and rap down to the anchors, then rap and clean your gear.
7.) if you are at an extremely solid bomber looking bolt (hey, even trad climbs have one every now and then) you can clip directly into it so you are hanging on it, tie a piece of webbing into the bolt, untie from the rope, feed (don't lower directly through webbing or you'll likely burn through it and die!) the rope through the webbing, put yourself on rappel, unclip, and rap. (If the hanger is small better to leave a bail biner so you don't hose the next guy who has to clip this.) Solid trees are also good cheap bail possibilites)
Have fun, be safe. Gear is cheaper than typical orthopedic surgical fees.
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notapplicable
Oct 7, 2009, 4:29 AM
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dugl33 wrote: Your options include (but may not be limited to) ... 1.) downclimb to the ground, cleaning your gear as you go. 2.) aid up past the difficulty or to the anchors by placing gear and yarding on it or standing up in an attached runner. this is especially usefull with a continous crack. in other words cheat. shamelessly. french free! 3.) lower off a piece of gear or bolt, cleaning the rest of the gear as you go. note that this is dangerous in that if the piece you're lowering from pulls you are going to risk a big fall or hitting the deck as you clean more and more gear. so the piece should be bomber or use multiple pieces. this gear will become booty for whoever finds it, although maybe through good karma it will make its way back to you. if you are more than half a rope length up you'll have to do this more than once. 3a.) if you happen to be trailing another rope, you can rap with the spare rope, while your partner takes in slack on the lead rope, and you can clean as you go. this way is much safer than option 3. 4.) lower off the top gear, (leaving all gear in place) and let your partner try. (Its a good idea for your partner to be tied into the other end of the rope -- more than a few people have been dropped while getting lowered from more than half a rope length up) 5.) ask nearby wiry and honed looking strangers if they can lead it and set a top rope. offering beer or weed helps. 6.) find another way up and rap down to the anchors, then rap and clean your gear. 7.) if you are at an extremely solid bomber looking bolt (hey, even trad climbs have one every now and then) you can clip directly into it so you are hanging on it, tie a piece of webbing into the bolt, untie from the rope, feed (don't lower directly through webbing or you'll likely burn through it and die!) the rope through the webbing, put yourself on rappel, unclip, and rap. (If the hanger is small better to leave a bail biner so you don't hose the next guy who has to clip this.) Solid trees are also good cheap bail possibilites) Have fun, be safe. Gear is cheaper than typical orthopedic surgical fees.
Best debut post I've seen in quite some time. Well done.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 7, 2009, 2:30 PM
Post #9 of 13
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notapplicable wrote: dugl33 wrote: Your options include (but may not be limited to) ... 1.) downclimb to the ground, cleaning your gear as you go. 2.) aid up past the difficulty or to the anchors by placing gear and yarding on it or standing up in an attached runner. this is especially usefull with a continous crack. in other words cheat. shamelessly. french free! 3.) lower off a piece of gear or bolt, cleaning the rest of the gear as you go. note that this is dangerous in that if the piece you're lowering from pulls you are going to risk a big fall or hitting the deck as you clean more and more gear. so the piece should be bomber or use multiple pieces. this gear will become booty for whoever finds it, although maybe through good karma it will make its way back to you. if you are more than half a rope length up you'll have to do this more than once. 3a.) if you happen to be trailing another rope, you can rap with the spare rope, while your partner takes in slack on the lead rope, and you can clean as you go. this way is much safer than option 3. 4.) lower off the top gear, (leaving all gear in place) and let your partner try. (Its a good idea for your partner to be tied into the other end of the rope -- more than a few people have been dropped while getting lowered from more than half a rope length up) 5.) ask nearby wiry and honed looking strangers if they can lead it and set a top rope. offering beer or weed helps. 6.) find another way up and rap down to the anchors, then rap and clean your gear. 7.) if you are at an extremely solid bomber looking bolt (hey, even trad climbs have one every now and then) you can clip directly into it so you are hanging on it, tie a piece of webbing into the bolt, untie from the rope, feed (don't lower directly through webbing or you'll likely burn through it and die!) the rope through the webbing, put yourself on rappel, unclip, and rap. (If the hanger is small better to leave a bail biner so you don't hose the next guy who has to clip this.) Solid trees are also good cheap bail possibilites) Have fun, be safe. Gear is cheaper than typical orthopedic surgical fees. Best debut post I've seen in quite some time. Well done.
I agree. I know people who have thousands of posts who still have not figured out how to give sound advice. Well done. You were even smart enough to leave out the Texas Rope trick.
Josh
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coolcat83
Oct 7, 2009, 3:41 PM
Post #10 of 13
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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blueeyedclimber wrote: notapplicable wrote: dugl33 wrote: Your options include (but may not be limited to) ... 1.) downclimb to the ground, cleaning your gear as you go. 2.) aid up past the difficulty or to the anchors by placing gear and yarding on it or standing up in an attached runner. this is especially usefull with a continous crack. in other words cheat. shamelessly. french free! 3.) lower off a piece of gear or bolt, cleaning the rest of the gear as you go. note that this is dangerous in that if the piece you're lowering from pulls you are going to risk a big fall or hitting the deck as you clean more and more gear. so the piece should be bomber or use multiple pieces. this gear will become booty for whoever finds it, although maybe through good karma it will make its way back to you. if you are more than half a rope length up you'll have to do this more than once. 3a.) if you happen to be trailing another rope, you can rap with the spare rope, while your partner takes in slack on the lead rope, and you can clean as you go. this way is much safer than option 3. 4.) lower off the top gear, (leaving all gear in place) and let your partner try. (Its a good idea for your partner to be tied into the other end of the rope -- more than a few people have been dropped while getting lowered from more than half a rope length up) 5.) ask nearby wiry and honed looking strangers if they can lead it and set a top rope. offering beer or weed helps. 6.) find another way up and rap down to the anchors, then rap and clean your gear. 7.) if you are at an extremely solid bomber looking bolt (hey, even trad climbs have one every now and then) you can clip directly into it so you are hanging on it, tie a piece of webbing into the bolt, untie from the rope, feed (don't lower directly through webbing or you'll likely burn through it and die!) the rope through the webbing, put yourself on rappel, unclip, and rap. (If the hanger is small better to leave a bail biner so you don't hose the next guy who has to clip this.) Solid trees are also good cheap bail possibilites) Have fun, be safe. Gear is cheaper than typical orthopedic surgical fees. Best debut post I've seen in quite some time. Well done. I agree. I know people who have thousands of posts who still have not figured out how to give sound advice. Well done. You were even smart enough to leave out the Texas Rope trick. Josh
+1
I'd just add, learn how to untie and thread the rope the right way so you don't drop it. Never be totally detached from it.
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 13, 2009, 12:44 AM
Post #11 of 13
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Just today at New River Gorge (sporto-infested hellhole):
My friend tried to lead a route, got halfway up, and bailed with all my gear still in place. I then put in a couple low pieces, climbed up to the highest piece, pulled it, and continued down pulling all my gear, until I got to the bottom with everything.
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climboard
Oct 13, 2009, 1:29 AM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 503
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dugl33 wrote: Your options include (but may not be limited to) ... 1.) downclimb to the ground, cleaning your gear as you go. 2.) aid up past the difficulty or to the anchors by placing gear and yarding on it or standing up in an attached runner. this is especially usefull with a continous crack. in other words cheat. shamelessly. french free! 3.) lower off a piece of gear or bolt, cleaning the rest of the gear as you go. note that this is dangerous in that if the piece you're lowering from pulls you are going to risk a big fall or hitting the deck as you clean more and more gear. so the piece should be bomber or use multiple pieces. this gear will become booty for whoever finds it, although maybe through good karma it will make its way back to you. if you are more than half a rope length up you'll have to do this more than once. 3a.) if you happen to be trailing another rope, you can rap with the spare rope, while your partner takes in slack on the lead rope, and you can clean as you go. this way is much safer than option 3. 4.) lower off the top gear, (leaving all gear in place) and let your partner try. (Its a good idea for your partner to be tied into the other end of the rope -- more than a few people have been dropped while getting lowered from more than half a rope length up) 5.) ask nearby wiry and honed looking strangers if they can lead it and set a top rope. offering beer or weed helps. 6.) find another way up and rap down to the anchors, then rap and clean your gear. 7.) if you are at an extremely solid bomber looking bolt (hey, even trad climbs have one every now and then) you can clip directly into it so you are hanging on it, tie a piece of webbing into the bolt, untie from the rope, feed (don't lower directly through webbing or you'll likely burn through it and die!) the rope through the webbing, put yourself on rappel, unclip, and rap. (If the hanger is small better to leave a bail biner so you don't hose the next guy who has to clip this.) Solid trees are also good cheap bail possibilites) Have fun, be safe. Gear is cheaper than typical orthopedic surgical fees.
I agree with 1-6 but not 7. Leave a bail biner, not a piece of webbing (or a quicklink) through a hanger. Not only is it quicker and safer than the webbing, but other climbers won't curse you when they come to a crucial bolt and can't clip it due to junk left behind by somebody who couldn't finish the pitch. A bail biner is a cheap price to pay.
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john_itis
Oct 18, 2009, 3:20 PM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Oct 18, 2009
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Not really sure why it wasn't mentioned.. or maybe I missed it.. but if you have enough gear and your partner is a stronger climber it may be best to just build an anchor at the highest point you can reach.
Short of aiding the difficult part, making the anchor at the high point and belaying your partner from there is a quick solution that will keep your party moving up and the momentum forward.
-edit- or am I just assuming that all worthwhile trad is multipitch?
(This post was edited by john_itis on Oct 18, 2009, 3:23 PM)
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