|
i_h8_choss
Oct 13, 2009, 6:55 PM
Post #1 of 62
(4884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694
|
I just wanted to know how you gym climbers do it??? How to pick the right one? How to deal with the smell, the crappy music, the beta sprayers, the plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on?
Ive never climbed in a gym, and I think I might have to join one soon. I moved recently, pretty far from real rock climbing, and a cold winter is fast approaching. I have about 5 different gyms
( all are more like small walls ) to choose from.
Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Oct 13, 2009, 7:13 PM
Post #2 of 62
(4860 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
i_h8_choss wrote: I just wanted to know how you gym climbers do it??? How to pick the right one? How to deal with the smell, the crappy music, the beta sprayers, the plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on? Ive never climbed in a gym, and I think I might have to join one soon. I moved recently, pretty far from real rock climbing, and a cold winter is fast approaching. I have about 5 different gyms ( all are more like small walls ) to choose from. Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort.
First off, you should feel lucky that you have 5 different gyms to choose from. Most of us have one or two. Visit them all a few times and you'll find one that will fit your preferences.
No, it's not going to be like the outdoors. You just have to get that part out of your head and accept it for what it is.
You're inside, and inside means: music you don't like (bring an iPod), being in close quarters with people you don't like (find the days/times when it's quiet), routes that seem contrived (only because you know you can blame somebody for it), etc., etc., ad infinitum.
Good luck with your transition into the gym world.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Oct 13, 2009, 7:50 PM
Post #3 of 62
(4822 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
acorneau wrote: No, it's not going to be like the outdoors. You just have to get that part out of your head and accept it for what it is.
In reply to: You're inside, and inside means: music you don't like (bring an iPod)
Put up with the crappy music, or talk to the folks playing it & see if some of your own could be slotted.
In reply to: being in close quarters with people you don't like (find the days/times when it's quiet)
If there are few enough people in the gym, maybe you can have the music turned off...
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Oct 13, 2009, 8:09 PM
Post #4 of 62
(4789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
bill413 wrote: But still fun.
Guess my post made it sound like I don't like gym climbing, sorry about that. I climb in the gym 3 days a week and even work there part time. (Real rock is 3 hours away.)
In reply to: I saw someone nearly deck because she didn't hear the warning of her partner "don't climb yet - you're not on belay." Earphones / buds are not good.
Yeah, I don't wear them, I just put up with the (mostly) crappy music.
In reply to: Find the folks that you want to be friends with - climb at the times they tend to climb.
Very true. If the OP is moving it may take him a while to find some friends, though.
In reply to: If there are few enough people in the gym, maybe you can have the music turned off...
That would be sweet.
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Oct 13, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #5 of 62
(4741 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
i_h8_choss wrote: I just wanted to know how you gym climbers do it??? How to pick the right one? How to deal with the smell, the crappy music, the beta sprayers, the plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on? Ive never climbed in a gym, and I think I might have to join one soon. I moved recently, pretty far from real rock climbing, and a cold winter is fast approaching. I have about 5 different gyms ( all are more like small walls ) to choose from. Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort.
This is really whining of the highest degree.
If you hate gyms and don't have rock near by then take up a different hobby. Otherwise suck it up buttercup.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Oct 13, 2009, 8:50 PM
Post #6 of 62
(4741 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
1) get over yourself. you're in a place in your life where you cannot climb as much as you'd like, but don't want to lose your edge. going to a gym will obviously help with that (and help in a lot of ways you weren't expecting). while most runners want only to run, going to a gym is part of that. same with hockey players, boxers, etc... it comes with taking a sport seriously. fortunately, we get the benefit of our gym being more like our sport than most athletes. at any rate, immediately stop thinking about how much it's going to suck and take it for what it is-- another chance to climb.
if you don't like the music, become friends with the staff and suggest they try your ipod.
2) boulder more. i don't know what your discipline is, but use the opportunity to get stronger. having access to a regularly rotating selection of boulder problems (i hope-- use frequency of variety and quality routes as an important criterion to by which choose your home gym) will help bring lots of different muscle groups into the mix.
you can also use bouldering the way the old climbers did-- as circuits. once you send a boulder problem, get right back on another and work it. and another, and another. stacking boulder problems like this will make you a titan in NO time at all, and is much easier in a cushy floored gym (criterion number two).
3) appreciate the social aspect. there are three types of gym members-- the serious climbers who will always be there and climb often and always-- learn who they are and introduce yourself to them early, as they'll be a big part of why you come back; the occasional climbers who usually show up to boulder (read-- bitch about why the problems are too hard nowadays) but mostly top rope; and the people you will never see again. the last group is a weird one, as you can often establish a friend you enjoy climbing with but soon find you wasted your time even getting to know. everyone else is irrelevant, as they're either in town for a day or two or part of a birthday party.
4) don't be a jerkoff. you'll probably want to prove something at first-- don't. people in a gym, like anywhere else, don't care that you can onsight 5.12 or flash V5 or whatever it is you do. don't jump in front of someone struggling with a problem "just so they know" you can do it. if someone is having an issue with a sequence, don't run over to them and show them how to do it. don't ever say that problems or routes are easy-- the person standing next to you might have been working on it for a week. don't laugh or point or whisper about others. spot when you can, especially when someone is about to hit a sequence that looks high or challenging (and whisper "i got your spot" as you do).
basically, treat everyone in the gym as though they're a 65 year old woman. give them space, assistance when they need it, but never patronize them or make them feel out of place.
And ALWAYS be courteous to anyone you don't know.
Another important thing is to pay attention to the way people work problems.
if they sit in a group and take turns, then try to find a spot in a rotation before jumping on something close.
Basically, know that this is going to be where you spend a lot of time. even people who climb outside a lot end up climbing in the gym during the week or during long spurts of harsh weather. if you like to climb as much as you alluded, this place will be a home away from home for you. the people will get to know you for good and bad. you'll also know them, and eventually regard them as something of an extended family-- like co-players (gayest thing i've ever said on the internet, true story). respect them, act humbly around them, and basically try not to be a asshat and everything will work out well in the end.
i'll stop here, as this post just got hecka wordy.
Note: i'm mostly talking about bouldering because most of the rules of sport climbing are going to be technical ones rather than social ones.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Oct 13, 2009, 8:58 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
i_h8_choss
Oct 13, 2009, 9:15 PM
Post #7 of 62
(4721 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694
|
hafilax wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: I just wanted to know how you gym climbers do it??? How to pick the right one? How to deal with the smell, the crappy music, the beta sprayers, the plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on? Ive never climbed in a gym, and I think I might have to join one soon. I moved recently, pretty far from real rock climbing, and a cold winter is fast approaching. I have about 5 different gyms ( all are more like small walls ) to choose from. Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort. Do you really expect good answers to those idiotic questions? Are you really that much of a social misfit that you don't think you can figure out which gym you like on your own? This is really whining of the highest degree. If you hate gyms and don't have rock near by then take up a different hobby. Otherwise suck it up buttercup.
First of all, dont call me buttercup, and yes I do expect good answers because acorneau already gave me some good advice. You gave me shit. I do have other hobbies. Im just simply trying to figure this whole gym thing out before I go out & purchase my monthy pass.
And Im talking about climbing or training for climbing, not being social.
Seriously, all I want is a little advice on how to make myself a good and respectable gym climber.
|
|
|
|
|
i_h8_choss
Oct 13, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #8 of 62
(4708 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694
|
well written, especially the "65 year old woman part" --thanks
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Oct 13, 2009, 9:24 PM
Post #9 of 62
(4704 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
i_h8_choss wrote: hafilax wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: I just wanted to know how you gym climbers do it??? How to pick the right one? How to deal with the smell, the crappy music, the beta sprayers, the plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on? Ive never climbed in a gym, and I think I might have to join one soon. I moved recently, pretty far from real rock climbing, and a cold winter is fast approaching. I have about 5 different gyms ( all are more like small walls ) to choose from. Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort. Do you really expect good answers to those idiotic questions? Are you really that much of a social misfit that you don't think you can figure out which gym you like on your own? This is really whining of the highest degree. If you hate gyms and don't have rock near by then take up a different hobby. Otherwise suck it up buttercup. First of all, dont call me buttercup, and yes I do expect good answers because acorneau already gave me some good advice. You gave me shit. I do have other hobbies. Im just simply trying to figure this whole gym thing out before I go out & purchase my monthy pass. And Im talking about climbing or training for climbing, not being social. Seriously, all I want is a little advice on how to make myself a good and respectable gym climber.
Don't be one of the a$$holes that you don't like or respect.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Oct 13, 2009, 9:28 PM
Post #10 of 62
(4699 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
Boo Hoo Hoo. Wah Wah Wah. Mommy Breastmilk.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Oct 13, 2009, 9:34 PM
Post #11 of 62
(4694 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
For instance, don't act like this guy.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Oct 13, 2009, 9:42 PM
Post #12 of 62
(4681 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
If you act like me everyone at the gym will make fun of how effeminate you are.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Oct 13, 2009, 9:47 PM
Post #13 of 62
(4675 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
(or girl)
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Oct 13, 2009, 9:49 PM
Post #14 of 62
(4668 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
Nope I am 100% male and 25% girly man.
|
|
|
|
|
kyleshea
Oct 13, 2009, 9:56 PM
Post #15 of 62
(4658 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 1716
|
i_h8_choss wrote: hafilax wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: I just wanted to know how you gym climbers do it??? How to pick the right one? How to deal with the smell, the crappy music, the beta sprayers, the plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on? Ive never climbed in a gym, and I think I might have to join one soon. I moved recently, pretty far from real rock climbing, and a cold winter is fast approaching. I have about 5 different gyms ( all are more like small walls ) to choose from. Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort. Do you really expect good answers to those idiotic questions? Are you really that much of a social misfit that you don't think you can figure out which gym you like on your own? This is really whining of the highest degree. If you hate gyms and don't have rock near by then take up a different hobby. Otherwise suck it up buttercup. First of all, dont call me buttercup, and yes I do expect good answers because acorneau already gave me some good advice. You gave me shit. I do have other hobbies. Im just simply trying to figure this whole gym thing out before I go out & purchase my monthy pass. And Im talking about climbing or training for climbing, not being social. Seriously, all I want is a little advice on how to make myself a good and respectable gym climber.
any respectable jim climber encourages others to call them buttercup.
|
|
|
|
|
kyleshea
Oct 13, 2009, 9:57 PM
Post #16 of 62
(4656 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 1716
|
kyleshea wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: hafilax wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: I just wanted to know how you gym climbers do it??? How to pick the right one? How to deal with the smell, the crappy music, the beta sprayers, the plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on? Ive never climbed in a gym, and I think I might have to join one soon. I moved recently, pretty far from real rock climbing, and a cold winter is fast approaching. I have about 5 different gyms ( all are more like small walls ) to choose from. Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort. Do you really expect good answers to those idiotic questions? Are you really that much of a social misfit that you don't think you can figure out which gym you like on your own? This is really whining of the highest degree. If you hate gyms and don't have rock near by then take up a different hobby. Otherwise suck it up buttercup. First of all, dont call me buttercup, and yes I do expect good answers because acorneau already gave me some good advice. You gave me shit. I do have other hobbies. Im just simply trying to figure this whole gym thing out before I go out & purchase my monthy pass. And Im talking about climbing or training for climbing, not being social. Seriously, all I want is a little advice on how to make myself a good and respectable gym climber. any respectable jim climber encourages others to call them buttercup.
butternuts and buttered stuff are highly offensive, however.
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Oct 13, 2009, 10:18 PM
Post #17 of 62
(4639 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
Hah! Now, that's some good banter.
To the OP:
Gyms are better than a depressive home hangboard routine conducted between lackluster s-fests whilst thumbing the latest Maxim. It's all about going up. Sure, there are plenty of people at the gym who really do live for gym climbing. It just is what it is. Yes, climbing gyms often suck for finding dedicated outdoor partners, but there are also people who us it for training and/or hanging out with friends while doing what they like best.
As for advice:
Don't act like a know-it-all douche because you "had to" resort to a gym (you should be so lucky. you know what they have for climbing gyms in Somalia? freighter ships!). For all you know you may be preaching your church of the outdoor climbing God bullshit to somebody who can school you seven ways to Sunday at your own game.
Leave your ice axe at home. Bring only what you need for the gym: namely, scrunchy socks
Take your belay card off after leaving the gym.
Don't pout and say the tape fell off that foothold when the pink route bouts you.
Don't do the pink routes. Trust me, as a man, it always hurts more when the pink routes bout you.
Don't get pissed when dude sends the gym prodge (Pinkie Pow-Wow, 5.10B) you'll never admit having in his flip-flops.
Smile at the pretty ladies, you social misanthrope!
Find people you can have fun with and push your game.
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Oct 13, 2009, 10:41 PM
Post #18 of 62
(4620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
sp00ki wrote: if you like to climb as much as you alluded, this place will be a home away from home for you. the people will get to know you for good and bad. you'll also know them, and eventually regard them as something of an extended family-- like co-players ( gayest thing i've ever said on the internet, true story).
I might believe that, but earlier you said this:
sp00ki wrote: spot when you can, especially when someone is about to hit a sequence that looks high or challenging (and whisper "i got your spot" as you do).
I've got to say, this whole whispering thing while behind me has got me creeped out. You're a guy, right? Yeah, creeped out.
Besides that business, your advice seems spot on though.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Oct 13, 2009, 10:43 PM
Post #19 of 62
(4616 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
I was in a similar situation this summer. Fortunately, My gym is pretty awesome... great route setters, nice and knowledgeable staff that actually climbs out side, descent music, weight room, LOTS of problems, always new stuff, etc.
Even so, the only way I can stand it is if I go as soon as they open, at lunch time. If I wait til later, I'm surrounded by morons. No matter what gym you go to, there will be morons.. so just try to go when they are at work!
|
|
|
|
|
i_h8_choss
Oct 14, 2009, 9:00 AM
Post #20 of 62
(4568 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694
|
johnwesely wrote: Boo Hoo Hoo. Wah Wah Wah. Mommy Breastmilk.
Your mommy brings you breastmilk when you're at your gym.....damn, that's cool.
|
|
|
|
|
scottydo
Oct 14, 2009, 10:23 AM
Post #21 of 62
(4553 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2007
Posts: 121
|
1. Visit the gyms to see what walls you like best and which one seem to have good route setters
2. Realize that not all gyms climbers are d-bags and see which gym has the best atmosphere/employees/members
3. Get over yourself and pick your gym and start climbing
(in my opinion #2 is most important)
|
|
|
|
|
Toast_in_the_Machine
Oct 14, 2009, 12:25 PM
Post #22 of 62
(4521 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 5208
|
I'm not going to bother with the on / off quotes for most of this...
How to deal with the smell?
Double down on the Ax bro. Kidding. People do smell and it isn't outdoors. Wish I could help.
Crappy music?
The only thing here is influence of the people who pick the music. At every gym there is someone who chooses what is being played. When in doubt be nice to that person.
The beta sprayers?
Ignore them and they'll go away. Or talk to them and they'll go away.
The plastic, the lack of beauty in a route and and so on?
Your focus should be inward on you. There is a narcissistic quality that you need to embrace.
In reply to: Also what are some basic rules I should abide by? This is not a joke and I know I might been an A-hole towards some of you in the past, but I really want to give this gym thing a valiant effort.
Advice: Don't be an a-hole. If you are, apologize.
|
|
|
|
|
i_h8_choss
Oct 14, 2009, 12:59 PM
Post #23 of 62
(4506 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694
|
All right, Im going to wipe away all my tears and go buy a pass. I used to pay for a yearly pass to Yosemite, but this will have to do.
Im packing my bag,
-shoes
-chalk
-ipod
-pics of some beautiful outdoor routes for inspiration
-tissues(in case I have to sneak into the bathroom and ball my eyes out)
-lastly, Im going in with a good attitude
We can end this thread if you all want. But hey, at least it wasn't "what shoes do I buy?", "where to go climbing this spring break", or "I dont know if I should buy a cam or some nuts." Ive already got that shit figured out, and those thread suck!
Sincerely,
A proud n00b gym rat.
|
|
|
|
|
andrewG
Oct 14, 2009, 2:25 PM
Post #24 of 62
(4484 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2008
Posts: 102
|
I think this has already been said, but avoid the gym during peak hours! I always try to get in an early afternoon workout or late evening. I went yesterday after a day at the crag (5:30) and it was ridiculously crowded. Waiting that long to do a problem is a PITA, and gym climbing spray lords really piss me off (plus people traversing, doing 4x4s, etc... Get on some ropes if you want to train endurance when others are climbing!). I had to go to another part of the bouldering wall because someone started spraying beta on a problem myself and a friend were working on.
I'm usually really mellow. I think I was PMSing.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Oct 14, 2009, 5:07 PM
Post #25 of 62
(4456 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
i_h8_choss wrote: All right, Im going to wipe away all my tears and go buy a pass. I used to pay for a yearly pass to Yosemite, but this will have to do. Im packing my bag, -shoes -chalk -ipod -pics of some beautiful outdoor routes for inspiration -tissues(in case I have to sneak into the bathroom and ball my eyes out) -lastly, Im going in with a good attitude We can end this thread if you all want. But hey, at least it wasn't "what shoes do I buy?", "where to go climbing this spring break", or "I dont know if I should buy a cam or some nuts." Ive already got that shit figured out, and those thread suck! Sincerely, A proud n00b gym rat.
Oh, I think nuts. Cams don't really help you much in gyms, they usually lack cracks.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
