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gblauer
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Sep 14, 2009, 2:39 AM
Post #151 of 1159
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A milestone for me!
I can go to my grave happy. I finally lead my first gunks 5.9!!! Ok, I know I am not a real Gunks 9 climber, but, it's a start right?
So, we arrived at the gunks on Friday in a fairly intense rain storm. Saturday dawned dark and gray. Everything was really wet. As the day progressed, the clouds persisted and the crag stayed pretty wet. We were planning to do some climbing at around 3PM, but, as soon as we started out the door it started to sprinkle. Plans dashed, we gave up on Saturday climbing. Instead we focused on errands and make a great dinner for some of our gunks friends.
Sunday was absolutely beautiful. Blue skies, sun, 75+ degrees. It actually got HOT. I warmed up on Bunny (first time it has been open all year, there is usually a jam up on Bunny) and felt really great clearing the roof. After finishing Bunny, I decided it was time to lead red Cabbage. Enough waffling, it was time to man up and do it. I knew that if I failed, I could always get my gear. So, up I went. I did my first 9, cool, calm and collected. I felt great, it felt wonderful to make the moves unencumbered by a top rope. I pulled the crux, turned the arete on to the face and finished up the climb. So much fun and such a sense of accomplishement.
Ok, I went from a sublime HIGH to an extreme (whiny) low. We decided to climb proctoscope (5.9+) to Feast of Fools (10a) to the 2nd pitch of Nurses Aid (10a MA). P1 and P2 go down like butter, but, P2 of Nurses Aid scares the hell out of me. It's all good to the traverse. But, man, that traverse is uber scary for a shorty. I whined and debated and whined some more. I just couldn't force myself to step out into the abyss. Finally, I just manned up and made the moves past the slopery horizontal on the positive edge around the corner. It's really hard to get started (the horzontal under the roof is really slopery and you have to reach really far to get to the good edges). and once you get started, you have to move. There are hands only, no feet. That said, I am short enough that I could get my feet on the wall and in a frog position scrunch along the crack. It wasn't easy and it was hard pulling the gear. My sox foot plus partner campused much of the traverse. As asecond, if you fall on the roof, you are not getting back on, there is nothing but air underneath you. Sure glad I didn't fall!
(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 14, 2009, 2:41 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Sep 14, 2009, 3:15 AM
Post #152 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: A milestone for me! I can go to my grave happy. I finally lead my first gunks 5.9!!! Ok, I know I am not a real Gunks 9 climber, but, it's a start right? So, we arrived at the gunks on Friday in a fairly intense rain storm. Saturday dawned dark and gray. Everything was really wet. As the day progressed, the clouds persisted and the crag stayed pretty wet. We were planning to do some climbing at around 3PM, but, as soon as we started out the door it started to sprinkle. Plans dashed, we gave up on Saturday climbing. Instead we focused on errands and make a great dinner for some of our gunks friends. Sunday was absolutely beautiful. Blue skies, sun, 75+ degrees. It actually got HOT. I warmed up on Bunny (first time it has been open all year, there is usually a jam up on Bunny) and felt really great clearing the roof. After finishing Bunny, I decided it was time to lead red Cabbage. Enough waffling, it was time to man up and do it. I knew that if I failed, I could always get my gear. So, up I went. I did my first 9, cool, calm and collected. I felt great, it felt wonderful to make the moves unencumbered by a top rope. I pulled the crux, turned the arete on to the face and finished up the climb. So much fun and such a sense of accomplishement. Ok, I went from a sublime HIGH to an extreme (whiny) low. We decided to climb proctoscope (5.9+) to Feast of Fools (10a) to the 2nd pitch of Nurses Aid (10a MA). P1 and P2 go down like butter, but, P2 of Nurses Aid scares the hell out of me. It's all good to the traverse. But, man, that traverse is uber scary for a shorty. I whined and debated and whined some more. I just couldn't force myself to step out into the abyss. Finally, I just manned up and made the moves past the slopery horizontal on the positive edge around the corner. It's really hard to get started (the horzontal under the roof is really slopery and you have to reach really far to get to the good edges). and once you get started, you have to move. There are hands only, no feet. That said, I am short enough that I could get my feet on the wall and in a frog position scrunch along the crack. It wasn't easy and it was hard pulling the gear. My sox foot plus partner campused much of the traverse. As asecond, if you fall on the roof, you are not getting back on, there is nothing but air underneath you. Sure glad I didn't fall!
That's awesome! See, you've got a good lead head, too. You just have to find it. 
Looks as if you've got a good second head, too. 
Congrats!
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wonderwoman
Sep 14, 2009, 3:22 AM
Post #153 of 1159
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Awesome job, Gail! I hung on Red Cabbage. Not an easy lead, but loved the climb!
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ratherbe
Sep 14, 2009, 10:47 AM
Post #154 of 1159
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Woohoo!!! Way to go, Gail!
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 14, 2009, 12:38 PM
Post #155 of 1159
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Nice job! As for Nurses Aid, I think the second pitch is harder than the first. I just wasn't expecting that on a 10a. 
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 15, 2009, 2:45 PM
Post #156 of 1159
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Monday Climbing
Monday was a beautiful day at the gunks. It was warm in the sun, cool down at the belay. I had the privlege of climbing with a good friend and new leader. She did her first and second leads ever. We started on Betty and she did a fine job. She moved like a trad leader, carefully planning her moves, make the moves, getting to a stance and placing her gear. It was a pleasure to watch her climb. (I usually see her seconding at her limit, which is very different.) She brought me up and we simul rapped and looked at her gear (quite good in fact). We then went over to Easy O and I put it up, had her follow, simul rapped and then she lead it. She did really really well. I was very proud of her. By the way, she is 62 years old and has only been climbing for a few years.
After that I climbed with my rope gun, Mike. We warmed up on Pas de deux, a beautiful warm up with some thin face climbing, leading to some terrific jugs on P2. From there we moved to Pink Laurel. Wow, that climb is uber polished. Truth be told, I really didn't enjoy the crux moves. The rock is practically vulcanized with all of the rubbber from climbing shoes. Once through the crux, it's a fun climb with interesting moves. In fact I think the upper part of the climb favors a shorter climber (for once...). I guess I need to do it again to see if I can be more efficient through the crux. I also had to clean a lot of gear (Micheal hadn't done this climb before and placed an uncharateristic amount of gear through the crux). At any rate, it's not a 9 that I will be quick to lead. We finished up on P38 (i had to leave early to catch a flight out of SWF). I loved P38. It's technical, requires good balance and it's awkward. For me the crux was well beyond the stated technical crux; it was way up at the headwall, trying to navigate the pebbles. I felt quite strong on this climb.
No Gunks for me next week. I am running our fundraiser for our local climbing area in Birdsboro PA. Our fundraisers have been very successful in the past. This year I was able to convince the quarry owner to fund a porta potty in perpetuity. It's a great addition to our climbing area and really needed. We are expecting 100+ heads, so hope for good weather!
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 15, 2009, 3:10 PM
Post #157 of 1159
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Looks like it's supposed to be nice this weekend. Sunny and 60's.
BTW, P38 is fun, but Stirrup trouble to the left is much better. It is much more sustained.
Good luck with the fundraiser. I think we'll be at the Gunks.
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Sep 15, 2009, 3:24 PM
Post #158 of 1159
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wow, 62 and taking the sharp end for the first time ever is impressive. Well done.
I've always wanted to do Pas De Deux. Not sure if I'll be healthy enough to knock it off this year.
I'm home in Bar Harbor for the weekend, but I won't be climbing. I'm hoping to be in the 'Gunks next weekend, though.
Good luck with the fundraiser!
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AntinJ
Sep 16, 2009, 3:26 AM
Post #159 of 1159
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Nice Job Gail - I'll have to check out that route!
Greg - Definitly do Pas De Deux! Just don't climb above the 'hand traverse' like I did.
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 21, 2009, 1:50 PM
Post #160 of 1159
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Exhausted in Philadelphia
Once again, I start my work week more exhasted than when I ended my week!
Good weather was a curse and a blessing, as my weekend was consumed with running the Third Annual Birdsboro Climb and Clean. The weather was great, but, I think many of our local climbers took advantage of the clear forecast and headed to points North and South. That said, we had a hearty crew of volunteers, completed many work projects and raised enough funds to cover our 2010 operating expenses. I will post some photos of the event. We started on Friday night with camping, up early on Saturday with volunteer work and UcanClimb2 stations for new climbers. Saturday evening culminates with a huge cook out, raffle and entertainment. Lots of partying (mercifully far away from our tent) into the wee hours and then we start all over again in Sunday. It takes a lot of effort to run one of these events.
I only got on five climbs this weekend (too tired to care about climbing). I made the mistake of warming up on an 11c; 1 flash pump later, I screwed myself for the rest of my climbs. I did some lead laps on some 10's and called it a day. Since I am traveling for work all week, I don't think I will climb until Friday at the earliest.
Next weekend: The Gunks.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 1, 2009, 7:53 PM
Post #161 of 1159
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Ooh, almost forgot to post this here: A Weekend of Debauchery
A fun weekend overall. Some ups and downs, mostly *ups*
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boymeetsrock
Oct 1, 2009, 10:23 PM
Post #162 of 1159
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Fun read Greg! Bow chika wow wow.
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 13, 2009, 4:15 PM
Post #164 of 1159
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Columbus Day Weekend at the gunks=No Parking
People actually had to park at the lot across the street from the mountain deli and walk to the crag. We parked in the scenic overlook and gladly paid the $25 ticket just for the convenience!
Saturday AM was really wet, we got started lated and enjoyed some nice moderate climbing on Dry martini, Tequila Mockingbird and Oscar/Charlie.
Sunday was insane, no parking, people everywhere. We had to struggle to get on some climbs. Additionally, it was pretty damn cold (ok, I am a fair weather climber). None the less, we got on some very nice climbs and enjoyed the day.
Monday, was far less crowded, but much colder. We had our pick of climbs; Arrow, Double Crack, Ursula and No Picnic.
My climbing days are numbered. Mitch and I get married on the 24th, head to AZ for a week of climbing for our honeymoon. We return to PHL and I head in for the first of two surgeries on November 4th. It will be several months before I can climb again.
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boymeetsrock
Oct 13, 2009, 4:40 PM
Post #165 of 1159
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It was ridiculously busy on Sunday. I was able to snag one of the last spots down in the lower lot by the visitor's center. Even so my partner and I waited little and got in 5 climbs.
I thought the weather could not have been better personally, but I hate being hot.
Gail, congrats on tying the knot!!! Hope the honeymoon is unforgettable. Also hope your surgeries go smoothly and that your back at it in no time.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 14, 2009, 1:36 PM
Post #166 of 1159
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Good luck on the wedding, Gail! That's awesome. Bummer about the surgeries, but I hope they help to make life better. Be optimistic: you're healing over winter and will be ready to go come spring!
It was nice to see a couple of posts here after none for a while. I decided to give my outdoor climbing a rest for the season. My ankle is finally starting to improve, but I don't want to risk anything (particularly with my scouting mission to Chile coming up in about three weeks). I won't even go to the gym until sometime in December when I'm sure my ankle is doing much better.
And it doesn't surprise me it was busy there this weekend. Columbus Day weekend is typically the last good-weather weekend in the NE for a lot of climbers, and the 'Gunks is about the last place for northerners to get to by this point (there's already been snow in NH and VT). Still glad both of you got out.
Greg
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 14, 2009, 4:20 PM
Post #167 of 1159
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While we are on a Gunks theme, yeah it was crowded, but I didn't wait and the weather was perfect.
Started a little wet and ended up slipping on a warmup, but as Saturday progressed, so did the quality of climbing and the dry rock.
This weekend, we did Drunkard's Delight, MF direct, Star Action, Country Roads, Gory THumb, Birdland, Roseland, Criss, and Te Tum. Goooooood weekend!!!
Josh
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kachoong
Oct 14, 2009, 4:30 PM
Post #168 of 1159
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Good luck on the wedding, Gail! That's awesome. Bummer about the surgeries, but I hope they help to make life better. Be optimistic: you're healing over winter and will be ready to go come spring! It was nice to see a couple of posts here after none for a while. I decided to give my outdoor climbing a rest for the season. My ankle is finally starting to improve, but I don't want to risk anything (particularly with my scouting mission to Chile coming up in about three weeks). I won't even go to the gym until sometime in December when I'm sure my ankle is doing much better. And it doesn't surprise me it was busy there this weekend. Columbus Day weekend is typically the last good-weather weekend in the NE for a lot of climbers, and the 'Gunks is about the last place for northerners to get to by this point (there's already been snow in NH and VT). Still glad both of you got out. Greg
What's this about you going to Chile? I know you're going but what's the backstory?
My best friend in Australia, and the friend I started climbing with for many years, is from Chile. He probably knows a fair bit about the Santiago area and has climbed in Patagonia.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 14, 2009, 4:48 PM
Post #169 of 1159
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kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Good luck on the wedding, Gail! That's awesome. Bummer about the surgeries, but I hope they help to make life better. Be optimistic: you're healing over winter and will be ready to go come spring! It was nice to see a couple of posts here after none for a while. I decided to give my outdoor climbing a rest for the season. My ankle is finally starting to improve, but I don't want to risk anything (particularly with my scouting mission to Chile coming up in about three weeks). I won't even go to the gym until sometime in December when I'm sure my ankle is doing much better. And it doesn't surprise me it was busy there this weekend. Columbus Day weekend is typically the last good-weather weekend in the NE for a lot of climbers, and the 'Gunks is about the last place for northerners to get to by this point (there's already been snow in NH and VT). Still glad both of you got out. Greg What's this about you going to Chile? I know you're going but what's the backstory? My best friend in Australia, and the friend I started climbing with for many years, is from Chile. He probably knows a fair bit about the Santiago area and has climbed in Patagonia.
I've always wanted to be a writer, and this seemed the best time to go for it. With the savings I have, I needed a cheap place to live. I looked at a bunch of different countries and settled on Chile for many reasons: it's cheap where it needs to be (food and accommodation), I know what all the food is for the most part, Spanish shouldn't be too tough to learn (though Chilean Spanish has a lot of indigenous phrases built into it, i hear), there are few poisonous creatures and the ones that are there are so rarely seen that I'm more likely to be bitten by a copperhead in the 'Gunks than by a Chilean Recluse Spider in Chile, and there's a stable politico-economic situation there (also, the fact that you can't bribe the police was a big plus).
Anyway, it will mostly be literary fiction that I'll be writing and that stuff is quite a bit different than the stuff I write on my blog (different voice altogether).
If you want to put me in touch with your friend then that would be awesome! I'd appreciate that very much. I've skyped with an ex-pat down there and spoken with a lot of Chileans in general, but I'd love to get in touch with a Chilean climber.
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kachoong
Oct 14, 2009, 4:58 PM
Post #170 of 1159
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Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Good luck on the wedding, Gail! That's awesome. Bummer about the surgeries, but I hope they help to make life better. Be optimistic: you're healing over winter and will be ready to go come spring! It was nice to see a couple of posts here after none for a while. I decided to give my outdoor climbing a rest for the season. My ankle is finally starting to improve, but I don't want to risk anything (particularly with my scouting mission to Chile coming up in about three weeks). I won't even go to the gym until sometime in December when I'm sure my ankle is doing much better. And it doesn't surprise me it was busy there this weekend. Columbus Day weekend is typically the last good-weather weekend in the NE for a lot of climbers, and the 'Gunks is about the last place for northerners to get to by this point (there's already been snow in NH and VT). Still glad both of you got out. Greg What's this about you going to Chile? I know you're going but what's the backstory? My best friend in Australia, and the friend I started climbing with for many years, is from Chile. He probably knows a fair bit about the Santiago area and has climbed in Patagonia. I've always wanted to be a writer, and this seemed the best time to go for it. With the savings I have, I needed a cheap place to live. I looked at a bunch of different countries and settled on Chile for many reasons: it's cheap where it needs to be (food and accommodation), I know what all the food is for the most part, Spanish shouldn't be too tough to learn (though Chilean Spanish has a lot of indigenous phrases built into it, i hear), there are few poisonous creatures and the ones that are there are so rarely seen that I'm more likely to be bitten by a copperhead in the 'Gunks than by a Chilean Recluse Spider in Chile, and there's a stable politico-economic situation there (also, the fact that you can't bribe the police was a big plus). Anyway, it will mostly be literary fiction that I'll be writing and that stuff is quite a bit different than the stuff I write on my blog (different voice altogether). If you want to put me in touch with your friend then that would be awesome! I'd appreciate that very much. I've skyped with an ex-pat down there and spoken with a lot of Chileans in general, but I'd love to get in touch with a Chilean climber.
Wow! So I guess you're going to be there a while...??
My friend left Chile when he was seven and is really an Aussie, but I do know that he has a bit of knowledge about that part of Chile. I'm not sure but he may have also been to Anconcogua too.
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Gmburns2000
Oct 14, 2009, 5:04 PM
Post #171 of 1159
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kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: kachoong wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Good luck on the wedding, Gail! That's awesome. Bummer about the surgeries, but I hope they help to make life better. Be optimistic: you're healing over winter and will be ready to go come spring! It was nice to see a couple of posts here after none for a while. I decided to give my outdoor climbing a rest for the season. My ankle is finally starting to improve, but I don't want to risk anything (particularly with my scouting mission to Chile coming up in about three weeks). I won't even go to the gym until sometime in December when I'm sure my ankle is doing much better. And it doesn't surprise me it was busy there this weekend. Columbus Day weekend is typically the last good-weather weekend in the NE for a lot of climbers, and the 'Gunks is about the last place for northerners to get to by this point (there's already been snow in NH and VT). Still glad both of you got out. Greg What's this about you going to Chile? I know you're going but what's the backstory? My best friend in Australia, and the friend I started climbing with for many years, is from Chile. He probably knows a fair bit about the Santiago area and has climbed in Patagonia. I've always wanted to be a writer, and this seemed the best time to go for it. With the savings I have, I needed a cheap place to live. I looked at a bunch of different countries and settled on Chile for many reasons: it's cheap where it needs to be (food and accommodation), I know what all the food is for the most part, Spanish shouldn't be too tough to learn (though Chilean Spanish has a lot of indigenous phrases built into it, i hear), there are few poisonous creatures and the ones that are there are so rarely seen that I'm more likely to be bitten by a copperhead in the 'Gunks than by a Chilean Recluse Spider in Chile, and there's a stable politico-economic situation there (also, the fact that you can't bribe the police was a big plus). Anyway, it will mostly be literary fiction that I'll be writing and that stuff is quite a bit different than the stuff I write on my blog (different voice altogether). If you want to put me in touch with your friend then that would be awesome! I'd appreciate that very much. I've skyped with an ex-pat down there and spoken with a lot of Chileans in general, but I'd love to get in touch with a Chilean climber. Wow! So I guess you're going to be there a while...?? My friend left Chile when he was seven and is really an Aussie, but I do know that he has a bit of knowledge about that part of Chile. I'm not sure but he may have also been to Anconcogua too.
the goal is a year. if things go well, then it will be longer. if not, then shorter.
I'm hoping to live in Puerto Varas at some point (northern Patagonia and apparently not too far from Cochamo Valley). Any info he has would be more than welcome (i.e. - good crags, where to find local partners, good guidebooks, etc). I'll also be in Santiago for a few months to get settled (at least that's the plan. things may shake up a bit on this exploratory trip in Nov).
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donald949
Oct 14, 2009, 6:45 PM
Post #172 of 1159
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Sespe Gorge, the Long Road to a Climb.
A weekend climbing trip that finally came into being. Originally, I was wanting to climb a four day weekend in Tuolume Meadows in June. But twisted my knee and ankle on a slab climb in Josh one day in March, so had to call it off. Although, eventually they healed well enough for a short sport climbing trip in June. Next up was a trip to the Southern Sierras, Dome Rock, but I came down with 102 fever the week before. Busted again. The family camping trip in August yielded canoeing and hiking, but no climbing partners.
What to do. Still wanted to go to Dome Rock, but kind of a hoof, 5 hours, for a 2 day weekend, and its getting cold, really cold there. So Sespe Gorge it was. The wife gave me a pass, my buddy was free, work was slow that weekend, lets hit it.
The drive from Orange County to Sespe is around 3 hours without traffic. We head out about 8, after I over slept, and beat enough traffic to make good time. The road up the hill, is nice, not too busy, but a lot longer than I remember. Last time we had climbed there was May 2007. After a bit we pull up, right around 11.
The two routes I'm looking at, Tree Root, 5.5, and Ending Crack, 5.7, both have parties on them. But the party on Ending Crack is almost done. I try to catch my breath after driving, rack up, get out the ropes, and head down to the base of the climb. Our tag line will be an old 50m Mammot. It was my brothers climbing rope, but he hardly used it. Although its in good shape, I don't lead on it.
Ending Crack, 5.7, going up past the front of my Suburban.
Another party on the rock is climbing Tree Root, with the leader at the common belay station for the two routes.
The party is done rapping off and we're tied in. I start heading up, but on the first foot hold I slip off. Hey great start. The climbing is steep, and some of the moves, while moderate, are awkward, so I stitch it up and it goes without any other issues. I found that I'm really locked in on the climbing, the moves above gear, and the rock. Much more like I usually lead climb. The lead climbing I did in March, my head just wasn't there, where I needed it to be. The climbing in June was great, but the leads I did were easy, so I don't know for sure if my focus was there. So I was happy about get my game back.
But by the time I'm half way to the first anchor, here come the second party rapping in. Rats, I thought they were going to rap the line they climbed. If I known they weren't, I would climbed their route, Tree Root. Such as life. Anyrate, they get down before I finish the pitch. The anchor/rap station are slightly to the right of the line for Ending Crack. So a carefully rapping party will not bother a climbing party right next to them.
I anchor in and bring up my second. He's been climbing for not quite 2 years, but only climbs with me. I often climb without him, as he has a family too, and he's not always free to join me. His climbing skills are improving, and he is strong and fit. He will no doubt be keeping up with me very shortly.
He cleans the route w/o issues, even though it was only his fourth pitch of cleaning. I have him anchor in, I rerack the gear, and we recoil the rope over his tie in. Off I go, second pitch, the crux, at least mentally. The climbing is pretty sustained for the whole route, but the second much harder to pro near the top. The route transfer from one crack to a second on the right, and I end up staying on the left longer than I should looking for pro. Even at that it wasn't great. A couple of stoppers behind some hollow flakes. Did I mention the rock is sandstone, its fairly hard, but nonetheless basically sandstone. Careful now. I work my way across to the correct crack, see some more pro ahead, and work my way up. The anchor is in sight, but the crack opens up over 12 inches. I find a good piece inside, and finish up. I feel solid all the way.
Again bring my second up and anchor him in. He has some trouble cleaning a couple of pieces, and had to leave one behind. OK we'll get it on the way down. Tie the two ropes together and throw them down. They don't uncoil well, so I decide to go first to clear any knots and tangles and get them off the flakes. By the time I get to the lower rap anchor I see the stuck piece. Its a cam specifically the light blue Metolius FCU. Its fairly big, it should come easily enough. Its only up and over a little from the station, but I make Tim clean it on the way down.
Final rap and we're down. Now where's the water and munchies. Its 3 in the afternoon, and that was a lot of work for a 2 pitch climb. Oh well.
Me at the top of Ending Crack
Tim nearing the top of Ending Crack
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donald949
Oct 14, 2009, 6:48 PM
Post #173 of 1159
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Time to find a camp site. The map shows two just down the road, neither really marked well along the road. Where the first one was didn't really look like much, and the next day we saw the road was blocked, with no camping. The second campground was small, only about 8 sites, and we get the last one.
Tim wants some firewood, but I want to relax for a few. Eventually we head up the trail going to a water fall, and scout out the dead wood along the way. Turns out it was a very nice little stream with about a 40 foot falls. Even this late in the season, in a dry year, it was flowing nicely with the water spread across the face. It was covered with small ferns and a ton of moss. Would be nice place to take the family in the spring for a long weekend.
After dinner we have our camp fire, and the two young ladies in the next site over keep going by to gather more firewood along the trail behind our site As it gets dark its obvious their fire is not staying lit. As the evening passes, it gets too cold out and we're wanting to turn in. My buddy goes over to their site, making about as much noise as possible walking past the brush, to offer them some logs and help with their fire. They seamed grateful for the help, and as we watch the last of our coals burn down their fire seems to have taken off.
The evening was cold, but the night got colder. Pull the sleeping bag up over your head cold. Too cold to get out until the sun is hitting the ground cold. The tent fly, car, and table plastered with frost cold. Tim's bottle of water has a layer of ice on the inside cold. We decide that hot Top Ramen is the order of the day for breakfast. By the time we're set to breaking down camp, it was much better.
Day two climbing, Tree Root, 5.5. Again a party on the route, but the second is already headed up P1. I sort the gear, we get out the ropes, and head over to the base. The leader has nearly finished the climb. He was fast and only placed a few pieces. The second is up soon enough so we tie in. Next thing I know, they're headed down our way. The Tree Root gets to the same P2 anchors as Ending Crack, but starts well to the right. The regular way down, is what the party did the day earlier, just off to the side of Ending Crack. Two 140 foot straight down raps. These guys are using two 70m ropes to get to some ledges even further to the right of the route, about 40 feet up off the ground, in one long 230 foot rap. I worried about them getting a rope stuck, and sure enough they did. But they got it down quick like and had the ropes coiled faster than I guessed and were gone.
Tree Root
I had done the Tree Root about 18 or 19 years ago, as my first multi pitch climb. I only had one set of stoppers and hexes for gear, and one 50m rope. Running it out as needed. Takes a third pitch to get to the top of the climb and over to the gully. The walk off descent is a gully just to the left of the climbs, and is only slightly less steep than the climbs themselves. But we had down climbed and rapped off trees to get to the base in the dark. Young and crazy.
Sunday, I'm looking up the crack at the opening moves. 5.5 huh? Well, the direct start was certainly harder than that. Five feet to the right looked easier, but I wanted to do it direct. For 5.5, the climb is fairly steep and sustained. In that way, almost an ideal climb. Also, the gear is there no problem, but I have been climbing for years. I'm sure I used more pro on the first pitch this time. Makes me wonder how I did it with such a small rack back then. Just plug in a piece when you can, and climb when you can't.
We get the two pitches done, meeting up at the same P2 anchor as Saturday. As I get near the top my bud calls out 30 feet, and it takes all but 10 feet of the 60m rope. We rap off, but what to do? Its just 2 pm, time for one more short climb. To the left is a long one pitch route. It looks like it takes wide gear, which I have up in the car. But is over water, as the creek runs right at the wall there. So some care would have to be taken to set up the climb. Rapping off would end in the water, with one rope certainly getting wet. Which would fine, as it would be our last climb. But I would have to rack up again. And I'm not that ambitious right now. Where's a good easy 70 foot sport climb when you need one?
My bud says he's fine, even a little tired from the two days, and not too motivated to do something else. Its time to call it a day. For the long drive home.
Veiw of Tree Root and and Ending Crack Sunday Afternoon.
The P1 belay is with the guy in white. Tree Route P1 belay is at the small tree across from him.
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kachoong
Oct 14, 2009, 6:56 PM
Post #174 of 1159
(28601 views)
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
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Cool TR! What a bugger to have the creek right below! I hate getting ropes wet!
This makes me wanna post up my w'end TR in here...
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