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shimanilami
Oct 16, 2009, 10:22 PM
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On the last wall I climbed, I tied a sling with a cam hook and a rivet hanger to the top of each aider. It sped things up (i.e. not needing to unrack/attach/unattach/rerack these pieces each time). I've considered attaching a few cams to the sling as well, but it seemed like a CF with too many pieces hanging off the top of each aider.
Along comes the Link cam. I'm considering putting one of these on each aider.
First question: bad idea?
Next question: having never used a Link cam or seen one in action, I have no idea which one would be most useful. Which is the best size for aiding? [Note - I'd never leave them as pro, since they are basically fixed to the aider, and since I've got plenty of other crap for pro.]
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healyje
Oct 17, 2009, 12:56 AM
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I don't know about a 'bad' idea, but you'd just want to be careful that you're not torquing them sideways very much in the process. Probably great for clean crack jumaring, less so for strange seams where you can't get a clean, straight lineup between the link cam shaft and the line of the loaded aider.
What's the worst that could happen...?
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moose_droppings
Oct 17, 2009, 2:59 AM
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shimanilami wrote: On the last wall I climbed, I tied a sling with a cam hook and a rivet hanger to the top of each aider. It sped things up (i.e. not needing to unrack/attach/unattach/rerack these pieces each time). I've considered attaching a few cams to the sling as well, but it seemed like a CF with too many pieces hanging off the top of each aider. Along comes the Link cam. I'm considering putting one of these on each aider. First question: bad idea? Next question: having never used a Link cam or seen one in action, I have no idea which one would be most useful. Which is the best size for aiding? [Note - I'd never leave them as pro, since they are basically fixed to the aider, and since I've got plenty of other crap for pro.]
I also tie an few common used aid tools on a piece of webbing and clip then to my aider biner. They're only clipped there if I know ahead that they'll be needed a lot on that pitch. As far as it being a bad idea of having a cam on there and what size, to me I'd need to look up the next pitch to decide if they will be used
enough to want them that handy. They'd really have to be necessary for that pitch to want them dangling there.
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tomtom
Oct 17, 2009, 3:46 AM
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healyje wrote: I don't know about a 'bad' idea, but you'd just want to be careful that you're not torquing them sideways very much in the process. Probably great for clean crack jumaring, less so for strange seams where you can't get a clean, straight lineup between the link cam shaft and the line of the loaded aider.
What type of cam is this not true about?
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healyje
Oct 17, 2009, 4:08 AM
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Pretty much any cam outside of the Link Cam, Max Cam, or rigid friends - they're the only ones I'd think twice about in this application.
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tomtom
Oct 17, 2009, 5:49 PM
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Sounds like Metolius TCUs also belong on your list. U stems load the head of the cam asymmetrically creating additional torque.
What's the worst that could happen?
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shimanilami
Oct 18, 2009, 11:03 PM
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Since most tweaky placements are with small stuff, I suppose I'd want to avoid the little Link cams. It sounds like the biggest Link cam makes the most sense, especially since I'll have a cam hook fixed in place as well.
I'll let you know how it goes.
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pbcowboy77
Oct 20, 2009, 5:18 AM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2002
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Red Link Cam...
I do that all the time. Great when you get into a splitter crack, almost as fast as free climbing the thing...
One thing... Make sure you leave pro every once in a while. You'd be amazed at how far you'll run it out while your going fast doing this.
Also check out this...
http://www.climbing.com/...t/techtips/ttaid219/
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