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kirkiboi
Oct 8, 2009, 2:23 AM
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If this is the wrong section for this thread please let me know and ill move it.
Im making my first trip up to J tree this weekend and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for some great trad climbs I shouldnt miss while im there. (5.9-5.11) is what im looking for but its always fun to jump on something classic or just try something too difficult if the climbing is great.
thanks to any replys
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russwalling
Oct 8, 2009, 3:04 AM
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http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/
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ShibbyShane
Oct 8, 2009, 5:12 AM
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Thanks Russ, that's a pretty sweet site!
Edit: I suck at spelling. And clicky!
(This post was edited by ShibbyShane on Oct 8, 2009, 5:15 AM)
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plantmandan
Oct 8, 2009, 6:03 AM
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I would recommend the Real Hidden Valley area. There is a huge concentration of routes there in the 5.8-5.11 range all within a short walking distance of each other. Sentinal rock in Real Hidden Valley has some fantastic crack climbs (Illusion Dweller, 5.10b *****, and Ball Bearing 5.10a *** come to mind).
If you plan on camping, Hidden Valley and Ryan are the best campgrounds for climbers. Beware that HV usually fills up by noon on Fridays this time of year. Ryan typically fills up by sunset. After that Jumbo Rock is another 25 minutes down the road. If you come in late Friday night you might find yourself driving for an extra hour looking for a campsite.
Have a blast!! J-Tree rocks.
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byran
Oct 8, 2009, 4:51 PM
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If you want shade:
O'Kelly's Crack (5.10++)
Wanger Banger (5.11)
Figures on a Landscape (5.10b)
Course and Buggy (5.11a)
Clean and Jerk (5.10c)
Fisticuffs (5.10b)
Heart of Darkness (5.11-/5.10+)
If you want sun:
Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
Hot Rocks (5.11b)
Illusion Dweller (5.10b)
EBGB's (5.10)
Swept Away (5.11-)
Pope's Crack (5.9)
My guess is you'll probably want to climb in the shade, although it has been sort of cloudy and cool in socal this past week. All of those are close to the road and easy to find, with the exception of Figures which is about a 20 minuet walk but there's a bunch of other climbing in the area.
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HYDEWILDMAN
Oct 8, 2009, 5:24 PM
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I live out close to j-tree and the weather has just changed to perfect during the day, high 60's low 70's so you shouldnt have to worry about sun or shade. Look for stuff in the lost horse area it is usually a LOT less crowded than the hidden valleys. cheers
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jt512
Oct 8, 2009, 8:19 PM
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kirkiboi wrote: If this is the wrong section for this thread please let me know and ill move it. Im making my first trip up to J tree this weekend and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for some great trad climbs I shouldnt miss while im there. (5.9-5.11) is what im looking for...
This should be interesting. Be sure to post a trip report.
Jay
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scottydo
Oct 13, 2009, 6:16 AM
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don't forget to be mindful of J-tree ratings ( a little sandbagged )
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seatbeltpants
Oct 13, 2009, 7:11 PM
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a week has passed... how did it go?
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kirkiboi
Oct 19, 2009, 5:21 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2008
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It was different. My only trad experience has been in yosemite valley which is not nearly as steep. I didnt trust my climbing on the different rock(although I should have. Its provides a lot more friction for hands and feet compared to that glacier polish found in yosemite). I loved it out there though. A little hot, and my partner and I got a bit lost trying to find "room to shroom". After looking for several hours we were too exhausted from the heat to even climb so we ended up hiking back out. I definitely plan on making another trip though. While there we were able to jump on Sail Away, Illusion Dweller, Touch and Go along with some sporty stuff. I really want to have a go at fisticuffs next time. It looks really fun!
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snoopy138
Oct 19, 2009, 5:49 PM
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this might be the first time in history the climbing in jtree has been referred to as "steep".
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brotherbbock
Oct 19, 2009, 6:22 PM
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kirkiboi wrote: It was different. My only trad experience has been in yosemite valley which is not nearly as steep.
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vegastradguy
Oct 19, 2009, 6:43 PM
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Room to Shroom doesnt exist. its a myth the locals tell us about to make us wander in the desert for hours looking for the damn thing. 
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dindolino32
Oct 19, 2009, 7:15 PM
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The Flake 5.9 on Intersection rock just about has it all with a spectacular ending. Also the Orphan 5.9+ was stellar and on the west side of the Old Woman. Bearded cabbage was a fun and safe climb and can be aided past the crux. The lower right ski track was a fun one and we just toproped it for the group. The list could go on and on but those were my favorites that are close (no wandering around). Those would also be good intros to trad at J-Tree. For a first easy multipitch, Mike's Books 5.6 (on the Backside of Intersection Rock) is fun and safe. It gets u up to the top and doesn't sketch you out. IF this doesnt help, find someone at J-Tree and have them point a good climb out. You shouldn't have to leave that main area for quite some time, so dont spend too much time wandering around. I have wasted a ton of time doing that.
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snoopy138
Oct 19, 2009, 9:22 PM
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dindolino32 wrote: The Flake 5.9 ... the Orphan 5.9+ ...
care to soften the ratings of any more routes while you're at it?
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kirkiboi
Oct 19, 2009, 11:49 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2008
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From my experience yes, I felt like jtree was steeper than Yosemite. I haven't climbed in a couple months so it could just be that I am very out of shape. Or it could be that Iv only been to jtree once so I'm not basing it off of a whole lot but most everything in the Yosemite valley fails to reach complete 90 degrees(el cap base, the apron, central pillar, serenity crack, the arches ect.)
Onto another topic though is the size of these "boulders"
This was one of the most surprising things to me when I first arrived. The pictures on the internet don't capture the true size of these climbs. Some of these climbs were a full rope length and I found several multi-pitch climbs in the book as well. A very pleasant surprise upon arrival.
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dindolino32
Oct 25, 2009, 2:41 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2008
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My Bad, the Flake was a 5.8 but the orphan was a 5.9+ in my crappy little book. Either way, they are both great climbs that you will stick in your mind.
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