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simpsongunn
Mar 26, 2009, 4:38 PM
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Hey,
I am still using my yellow Jumars from the 80's. Are these considered a safe practice? Now, as back then, I have the bottom hole backed up with supertape looped to the top hole.
I've tried Petzls but find the Jumars easier to work one-handed. However, a pair of Petzl's available locally now would make upgrading reasonably cheap.
Thanks.
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kennoyce
Mar 26, 2009, 5:06 PM
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STOP USING THEM IMMEDIATLY, Yellow Jumars are extremely unsafe which is why I only use blue ones personally. Sometimes I do see people using one yellow jumar, but its always backed up with a safe blue one.
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dingus
Mar 26, 2009, 5:12 PM
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So long as they are mechanically sound, yes they are perfectly safe. Twas the old gray ones (made of pot metal, basically) that were weak handled, not the yeller ones.
I too agree btw, that for *normal* wall work the jumars KICK ASS on the pretzels, cept for the grips.
I have both and have used both. When I need a 'must not slip cause the freakin teeth will grab anything' jug I go with the pretzels.
When i need a more multipurpose jug I use my old jumars (cintage 1984). For example, if working a route on fixed ropes I much prefer the jumars.
If I anticipated any sort of ice however, I'd take the pretzels.
Cheers
DMT
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docburner
Mar 26, 2009, 5:24 PM
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I'm hoping for a good picture of you jugging with pretzels.
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simpsongunn
Mar 27, 2009, 2:23 PM
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Pmyche--
Oh, and I should rig it to have the rope run over the supertape in he channel at the bottom? Spicy!
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anthonypmason
Mar 27, 2009, 3:28 PM
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Bout' the only thing wrong would be if that supertape tape was the same vintage as the jugs themselves, I would re-sliing the tape and keep on juggin'
good luck
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pmyche
Mar 27, 2009, 4:02 PM
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krusher4
Mar 27, 2009, 5:50 PM
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I heard that even the new Yellow one's are unsafe...I imagine one's from the 80's to be a rope cutting death trap.
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dingus
Mar 27, 2009, 5:56 PM
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Jumar teeth are far less aggressive than pretzel.
The inherent danger of yeller Jumars is popping off the rope on traverses, a well known limitation of that design.
DMT
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simpsongunn
Mar 27, 2009, 6:13 PM
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If I'm not mistaken, clipping a second biner to the bottom hole and clipping that biner into the (horizontal) rope, is one way to go safer on traverses?
Other suggestions?
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coastal_climber
Mar 27, 2009, 7:02 PM
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simpsongunn wrote: If I'm not mistaken, clipping a second biner to the bottom hole and clipping that biner into the (horizontal) rope, is one way to go safer on traverses?
Correct.
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skinner
Apr 4, 2009, 8:52 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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I clip an oval (other shapes tend to corkfark the rope and cause extra friction) top and bottom on traverse.
I have the yellow jumars, really no need to sling them unless the frame is damaged, in which case you should toss them anyway. I have my very first pair of vintage grey "jumars-of-death", which I still use now and again. The greys have the old style frame which you HAD to sling them around the handle and down through the slot in the bottom of the frame. I believe the problem began with illiterate people who must not have been able to read the documentation, and would clip a biner directly through the slot in the bottom of the frame. Being pot metal, the thin sidewalls of the slot would snap when only minimal torque was applied to the frame by the biner. The problem was with the operator more so then the jumar itself, however the yellow style was definitely a big improvement. I also have a pair of pretzels, but prefer the jumars, especially when using them in any sort of rig. I have the rare z-toothed cams on the greys, which I was going to donate to Storrick, but he was such an arrogant dick in an email reply to me that I decided to keep them. The z-tooth relied pretty much on force alone to clamp the rope and was probably the easiest on ropes of all the handled ascenders, but... even a tiny bit of mud on rope would cause them to slip.. ice.. forget it.
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squishy654
Aug 11, 2009, 11:49 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2008
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I use the Yellow Jumars, they were hand me downs from Graig Peer and do the job nicely...I did re-sling them just in case though...I love them and wouldn't trade them for any of the newer designs, I still need to get a Croll/basic for a backup though...
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lumineferusother
Aug 13, 2009, 12:02 AM
Post #14 of 18
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Registered: Jul 4, 2005
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kennoyce wrote: STOP USING THEM IMMEDIATLY, Yellow Jumars are extremely unsafe which is why I only use blue ones personally. Sometimes I do see people using one yellow jumar, but its always backed up with a safe blue one.
Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more?
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kennoyce
Aug 13, 2009, 2:02 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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In reply to: Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more?
No, it is actually because of the yellow #5 dye, this dye has many horrible properties including causing testicals to shrink, because of this I refuse to use anything that contains it.
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bill413
Aug 13, 2009, 2:28 PM
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kennoyce wrote: In reply to: Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more? No, it is actually because of the yellow #5 dye, this dye has many horrible properties including causing testicals to shrink, because of this I refuse to use anything that contains it.
I can see how that would be a horrible problem for a climber trying to get "out there" on a climb.
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avalon420
Oct 20, 2009, 12:54 AM
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bill413 wrote: kennoyce wrote: In reply to: Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more? No, it is actually because of the yellow #5 dye, this dye has many horrible properties including causing testicals to shrink, because of this I refuse to use anything that contains it. I can see how that would be a horrible problem for a climber trying to get "out there" on a climb.
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skiclimb
Oct 20, 2009, 10:35 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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yellow dye was found to be explosive if bumped hard against granite.
YOU WILL DIE!!!!
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