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K-mann


Oct 23, 2009, 1:32 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2008
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Fixed Gear  (North_America: United_States: West_Virginia: Roped_Climbing: Seneca_Rocks_Region: The_Panhandle: Seneca_Rocks)
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Anyone ever thought about a Seneca clean up day? Seems like there is so much fixed gear (crap) on many of the popular routes these days. The tetanus trap nut on Pollux comes to mind. Maybe take a hammer and chisel up there and clean up some of the bunk that is hogging the jams, locks, and gear placements?


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Oct 23, 2009, 7:07 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2001
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Re: [K-mann] Fixed Gear [In reply to]
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Good luck with that nut, it has been welded in place for more than ten years.


dugl33


Oct 23, 2009, 8:36 PM
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Re: [K-mann] Fixed Gear [In reply to]
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Cordless sawzall with hacksaw blade. Oh, and eye protection.

Pirate


K-mann


Oct 24, 2009, 9:02 AM
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Re: [dugl33] Fixed Gear [In reply to]
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Of course the key is to beat out the gear and not mar up the rock. Cordless jack hammer?

I don't doubt that nut has been there 10 years. There are fixed pieces that have been there since my first visit back in '97. And with the proliferation of micro cams there are more and more 'fixed' pieces than ever.


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Oct 24, 2009, 9:29 AM
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Re: [K-mann] Fixed Gear [In reply to]
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It may be as simple as devising a way to snip off the cable strands. The nut isn't really in the way, just those damn strands that like to stab you.

While the idea has merit, I think Seneca is pretty clean compared to most major trad climbing areas. I am usually more concerned with cleaning up the old and/or rotten tat anchors.


dugl33


Oct 25, 2009, 3:34 PM
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http://images.google.com/...2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

By sawzall I mean reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade (not sure if this was clear or not), which can work well on fixed cams, at least where the crack is deep enough to not jam the blade. You can shield the rock with some plywood if need be. A simple hacksaw can work too with a little more elbow grease.

This will not be a realistic approach on small nuts in a bottoming crack, but aluminum cuts like butter with the right blade (non-ferrous metal cutting). Cut the cams (not touching the rock with the blade) on one side and the sucker should pop out.

Cable cutters will cut 1/8" cable pretty clean with no problem -- wire cutters will make a mess of it.

Not recommending damaging the rock in any way... the real challenges I guess are small fused nuts. Better to leave a fixed nut that might still hold a fall than totally bungle it, making it worthless and potentially with sharp unfriendly edges. No doubt some nuts can be cleaned with a hammer and thick blade piton or a chisel. Most people aren't carrying such things while cragging so maybe the nuts are not so fixed as they seem and will come out with a good beating. Take a belay seat and some tunes. Oh, and eye protection. Pirate

afterthought -- some people in positions of authority get really freaked out about any sort of power tool at the cliffs. some places they are outlawed completely. check around first despite the obviously noble intentions.


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