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currupt4130
Oct 26, 2009, 10:19 AM
Post #1 of 3
(191 views)
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 288
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I stood in front of this thing yesterday for 30 minutes trying to figure out how to start it. The only thing I could come up with was a fist jam, leg over and up into the slot and then a sit up to the next jam.
I'm so confused by this thing, but I want to climb it so bad. Help, anyone?
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curator
Oct 28, 2009, 6:21 AM
Post #2 of 3
(137 views)
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 67
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Yeah, that's a tough one. The first ascentionists climbed the route at 5.10 due to a chockstone that used to sit in the crack. Now the rock is gone and it's super hard even for 5.11a. One of the first routes at Endless!
A couple pointers: It's possible to wiggle up inside the chimney, reach high and place a #1 Camalot, then downclimb so that you'll be protected for the start.
There are a few ways to do the start, all require groveling. If you get a left fist jam you can reach high and right to a bad crimp then get a left kneebar/scum. Crunch up and start groveling to get inside.
Another option is to get the right fist jam, make a hard move up and left to a crimp then get your right foot over your right hand and once again, start groveling to get inside.
Another option is to place that #1, yard up on the rope and enjoy the immaculate 5.10 corner above!
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currupt4130
Oct 28, 2009, 6:57 AM
Post #3 of 3
(111 views)
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 288
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Thanks for the beta. I've sat and stared at this thing a bunch of times. I even racked up last time and said "Fuck it, I'll just figure it out." Didn't happen.
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