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nikegirl
Nov 4, 2001, 8:01 AM
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I bought this as my first atc.
I only have this one.
no other yet, waiting for the gri gri, to come to my mailbox...
When I use this BRD, I think I cuss it more than I enjoy its features..
It locks the rope as I'm taking. I have to lift it up to release it's tension....it almost locks off...I have to lift it upwards, to keep it from doing this...I'm afraid of actually pulling someone off the wall, or rock...not me but, the way it locks off. Slows and gives no slack...is this making any sence?
Has anyone used it???
I'm buying a basic atc tomorrow, just to get thru...not worth the problems involved.
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beta
Nov 4, 2001, 8:19 AM
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Sorry, I haven't used one, but for what it's worth, I like belay/rappel devices that have one moving part, ME. I just feel better about knowing exactly whats going on.
I do use Gri-Gri's in the gym, and they have always worked well for me, but, reading the posts about phantom failures and user error gives me the creeps, Conversely, Gri-Gris. have saved the day in a couple of situations I have read about.
What to do??
Jeff
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nikegirl
Nov 4, 2001, 8:27 AM
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I just read some of the phantom posts...
Yikes.
What to do?
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saltspringer
Nov 4, 2001, 9:41 AM
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I've used many different tubers (BlackD ATC; DMM Bug etc...) & by far the best for rappel, lead, or TR belay is the Trango Pyramid. I volunteer at a Community Centre climbing wall & do a LOT of belaying so trust me on this: if it's a tuber you're getting, buy the Trango,
Mike
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munckee
Nov 4, 2001, 6:05 PM
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The latest climbing magazine has a review of the metolius BRD. They gave it very high marks, but said that you need to get used to it.
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nikegirl
Nov 5, 2001, 10:55 AM
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get used to it, but, at what cost.
My partners, get annoyed...
Doesn't make me feel secure.
T
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munckee
Nov 5, 2001, 3:15 PM
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Whoa, don't shoot the messenger. I'm just relaying what I read. I'm pretty sure that you can find the review at the Climbing Magazine website; why don't you go check it out.
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wigglestick
Nov 5, 2001, 3:47 PM
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If you think you have trouble feeding out slack now wait until you get your grigri. I find it very difficult to belay a lead climber with a grigri. I only use mine for aid climbing. Otherwise I use a reverso. Although I second the recommendation of the trango pyramid.
Matt
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nikegirl
Nov 5, 2001, 4:36 PM
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no shot intended munckee
It was aimed tward the device,
T
[ This Message was edited by: nikegirl on 2001-11-05 11:41 ]
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paulc
Nov 5, 2001, 8:15 PM
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Well, personally if I use a tube type I use an ATC. Feeds well, lowers well, doesn't catch up like the Trango Jaws. I don't really dig the Trango tube like Mike, but you know its all personal preference.
Lead belaying with a GriGri is a whole new technique, if you don't have it down, don't do it, cause if you hold the cam down then you can drop your climber like a rock. That being said, I use one for lead belaying at the gym and sport routes especially when I think the climber will hang alot, really saves energy in holding them and you don't have to tie a mule knot to hold them, I usually just tie a 8-on a bight in case the something goes wrong, before I take my hands off the brake rope.
Hey use whatever works for you.
Paul
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talons05
Nov 5, 2001, 10:38 PM
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Hey Nike, we once got some of those BRD's in the climbing department that I used to manage. They are, in my opinion, absolutely horrible. They have much to sharp of a brake, they are heavy, and they don't allow enough room for ropes (hence the poor braking) which also causes poor performance when feeding or taking in slack. I think, in fact, that this device is more likely to get someone hurt than to save a fall. I got one to try out and after one session, threw it in the trash.
AW
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nikegirl
Nov 5, 2001, 11:20 PM
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Talons
Thank you for the understanding! Seriously, trying to explain this to my partner(s), without sounding like I'm giving excuses(I hate to do that), of why it's not working...
Oh, yes, it's heavy...noticed that yesterday, when I bought a basic Black Diamond atc...
I thought it was maybe the Gym rope... felt jerky... giving and taking slack...
I'm so done, with it.
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dustinap
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Nov 6, 2001, 10:08 PM
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The HB sherrif belay device is pretty sweet. I like it just aswell as the Bd one, but it has a some sort of metal where the BD one has a wire, and the wire can sometimes get sucked into the rope, which is bad. I've never had this problem with the HB sherrif, where everyone i know with a BD has had that problem at somepoint or another, and the wire is all messed up now.
The HB sherrif does get hot w hen you're rapping, but I guess when you rap and it's 94 or so degrees, that happens heh.
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nikegirl
Nov 9, 2001, 9:14 AM
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I was told by someone, that the BRD, was great for (don't quote me), big wall .
climbs. Keeps the tension, and slow belay in tact...
I used my gri gri...love it...nothing is fail proof...I was told to treat everything like it "can fail"... and don't ever let go of the rope.
I was going to toss the BRD...but, I'll just stick it in the bottom of my bag...and when the time comes to use it for a big wall climb...
NAWW probably not...anyone want it.
T
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talons05
Nov 10, 2001, 8:19 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
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Hey Nike -
I threw mine away. I wouldn't even give it to someone. I'm just not that mean...
AW
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nikegirl
Nov 12, 2001, 2:18 AM
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I'm not mean...
T
"some man's junk is another man's treasure"
just kiddin'
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samshafer
Jan 7, 2002, 9:08 AM
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Never throw away gear, it makes nice conversation pieces on your mantle...or, you can use it to weight your pack & build up more stamina
That said, I like the ATC for rapelling mostly or belaying a lightweight or good climber. I like the grigri for anyone that's heavy or might hang a lot. I use the grigri when being belayed by someone whose capabilities I don't trust. I've even just tied it to a tree & asked the person to just hold the rope and make sure it doesn't get kinked or snagged as it's feeding through. But I'm talking traditional leading on rock where I'll be rapelling back down under my own control. I don't climb on walls anyway, (unless you count the past few years in Holland where there was nothing else to climb).
I won't let anyone lower me with a grigri unless there's just no other way. I had a bad experience with some grade school girls dropping me about, I don't know, a couple body lengths, by pulling down on the handle. It's a great device for toproping, belaying from above or below, but not for lowering or rapelling. The ATC is better for that, though it's a little shy on friction when single rope rappin' and trying to hold yourself while cleaning gear off, especially with a smaller diameter rope.
What Dustinap said about the wire cable on the ATC is true, though BD now has it plastic coated. Still, that cable eventually breaks & then you gotta throw it away cause BD can't fix that (I tried to have it done).
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