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rockandlice
Oct 28, 2009, 3:32 PM
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I've yet to climb this classic and plan to tomorrow. I've got plenty of big gear, but can't seem to find any reliable mention of the general gear sizing pitch one requires. I'd rather not lug up a bunch of large c4's or big bros for a single 5.5 pitch if only one or two are needed to protect it well.
c4 #4 or #5? #2 big bro perhaps?
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IsayAutumn
Oct 28, 2009, 3:51 PM
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rockandlice wrote: I've yet to climb this classic and plan to tomorrow. I've got plenty of big gear, but can't seem to find any reliable mention of the general gear sizing pitch one requires. I'd rather not lug up a bunch of large c4's or big bros for a single 5.5 pitch if only one or two are needed to protect it well. c4 #4 or #5? #2 big bro perhaps?
I have yet to climb this classic, but I have heard many people talk about it. I'm sure you'll get a better answer, but in case you don't, here's what I've heard:
Basically you can bring a big camalot (#5 or #6), you can get "the pipe" from the gendarme (literally a big metal pipe that people wedge in there), or you can run it out and be happy when you finish the pitch. Also, another option is to skip the first pitch altogether. I believe you can climb the first pitch of something else...maybe Conn's East. I don't think the first pitch of Soler is the money pitch, anyway.
Hope this helps in some minor way.
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zealotnoob
Oct 28, 2009, 4:08 PM
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^^ is correct
I chose the run it out option. It built character.
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cclarke
Oct 28, 2009, 4:26 PM
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I'd climb the first pitch of Conn's East instead. It's more fun.
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rockandlice
Oct 28, 2009, 5:19 PM
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IsayAutumn wrote: rockandlice wrote: I've yet to climb this classic and plan to tomorrow. I've got plenty of big gear, but can't seem to find any reliable mention of the general gear sizing pitch one requires. I'd rather not lug up a bunch of large c4's or big bros for a single 5.5 pitch if only one or two are needed to protect it well. c4 #4 or #5? #2 big bro perhaps? I have yet to climb this classic, but I have heard many people talk about it. I'm sure you'll get a better answer, but in case you don't, here's what I've heard: Basically you can bring a big camalot (#5 or #6), you can get "the pipe" from the gendarme (literally a big metal pipe that people wedge in there), or you can run it out and be happy when you finish the pitch. Also, another option is to skip the first pitch altogether. I believe you can climb the first pitch of something else...maybe Conn's East. I don't think the first pitch of Soler is the money pitch, anyway. Hope this helps in some minor way.
Thanks! It does help. My suspicions made me guess thwe #5 would be appropriate. I know of the pipe, but figured if I have the gear there is no reason to hit up the Gendarme to grab it.
cclarke wrote: I'd climb the first pitch of Conn's East instead. It's more fun.
I've climbed that conn's pitch a few times, and was hoping to just do the original line as Tony did in '51.
Well, that description says "5-7"?" and a #4 c4, which to me is quite questionable and why I didn't want to go by that info. I've walked by the pitch before, and a #4 seemed quite small as well as not matching the seemingly guessed crack width first listed. Seemed like a shotty lot of suggestions posted in the database.
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climboard
Oct 28, 2009, 6:20 PM
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You'd want something larger like a green Big Bro to protect the start of this.
Most people just do without, once you get past the initial vertical section it eases up.
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naitch
Oct 28, 2009, 7:06 PM
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Actually I personally think the first pitch of Con's East is not very interesting - I'd prefer the first pitch of Soler. Or, you can make make the first pitch of Conn's East a bit better by taking an alternate that takes off mid-pitch and heads straight up and will deposit you right where you need to be to start the second pitch of Soler. The book mentions it as a flake variation - I remember it more as a finger-hand crack. It was much better than doing the whole first pitch of Conn's. YMMV
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justroberto
Oct 28, 2009, 7:23 PM
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I certainly wouldn't bring more than 1 #5, although the wideness is fairly mellow climbing and you could do without. I remember that part being markedly easier than some of the stuff on the second pitch.
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notapplicable
Oct 28, 2009, 7:39 PM
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If I remember correctly a #5 will do ya fine.
If your profile is current/accurate you really don't need it, but being from VA the wide gear has probably been cooped up in the closet for awhile so no reason not to let it out to play.
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vegastradguy
Oct 29, 2009, 4:17 AM
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In reply to: Take a green Big Bro and a purple #4 camalot and your cool...
from the route description.
anyway, i live on the other side of the country, so i cant really say one thing or another other than what i read. either way, sounds awesome- i'd probably just run it out- 5.7 wide just means if yer scared, you just get into the thing and grunt your way up it.
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rockandlice
Oct 29, 2009, 6:45 AM
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Aight, sounds like it's a go to just along the #5, it needs some lovin' anyhow. Headed out the door now to tick off as many of the 5.7 classics as we can today. On the list for the day is Simple J., Ecstasy, Soler and West Pole.
Thanks for the advice everyone!
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zealotnoob
Oct 29, 2009, 8:24 AM
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Don't forget Pleasant Overhangs, Thai's Direct, Greenwall and Prune
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andersjr
Oct 29, 2009, 8:36 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: In reply to: Take a green Big Bro and a purple #4 camalot and your cool... from the route description. anyway, i live on the other side of the country, so i cant really say one thing or another other than what i read. either way, sounds awesome- i'd probably just run it out- 5.7 wide just means if yer scared, you just get into the thing and grunt your way up it.
you can't really climb it like a 5.7 wide crack. you aren't actually in the crack, it is more like half face/half crack climbing.
go to the gear shop and get the soler tube, it is the easiest way to do it.
i had a buddy do this as his second trad lead ever, with no big gear. some dude later told us about the soler tube. my buddy nearly decked me.
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naitch
Oct 29, 2009, 8:46 AM
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andersjr wrote: i had a buddy do this as his second trad lead ever, with no big gear. some dude later told us about the soler tube. my buddy nearly decked me.
The works well but I doubt the shop is open during the week this time of year...could be wrong
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cclarke
Oct 29, 2009, 9:49 AM
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All the starred 5.7s in a day is a classic outing and pretty doable if you don't try it on a busy weekend.
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justroberto
Oct 29, 2009, 10:04 AM
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j_ung wrote: zealotnoob wrote: Don't forget Pleasant Overhangs, Thai's Direct, Greenwall and Prune That would be a pretty ambitious day. Hmmm...
By then you'll be good and warmed up...
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rockandlice
Oct 30, 2009, 7:15 PM
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Yeah, it was a jammed packed enough day as it was considering I have a cold which has really drained me. We ended up doing X, Soler, The Burn and TR'd Sunshine. I was whooped after that. Too bad too, we had all of Seneca TO OURSELVES! Sunny and 60. Effin'a'right.
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