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Mariofercol


Oct 28, 2009, 1:55 PM
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More trad gear
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I'm thinking to expand my trad gear a little bit and double up in some pieces. Right now I have BD C4 from size 0.5-3 and three alliens (yellow, green and blue). I climb mainly in Squamish, BC so maybe a BD C4 number 4 would be useful but nothing bigger than that, I think.

I like my gear atm, but I was wondering if there is any technical advantages in buying other brand of cams of similar sizes to double up pieces.

PS: By the way. My second choice for extra gear would be maybe the Metolius Master Cams.


(This post was edited by Mariofercol on Oct 28, 2009, 1:58 PM)


TarHeelEMT


Oct 28, 2009, 2:17 PM
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Re: [Mariofercol] More trad gear [In reply to]
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It's just personal preference, really. Different brands might fit better into slightly better placements (especially in smaller sizes), but that's no advantage if you don't like the action of the second brand. If you do like the action of the other brand, then it's worth considering. If money is tight, there's always the option of getting a cheaper cam like the Trango Flex cam for your doubles (I do this in smaller sizes).


cilohabmilc


Oct 28, 2009, 2:30 PM
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Re: [Mariofercol] More trad gear [In reply to]
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Different brands can vary in their sizing... so it can be like buying a piece in between what you have. This is not necessary, but like the last guy said, can be helpful in certain instances.

I personally prefer Metolius, but I use their power cams because of the stability of the U-stem. I own a #6 master cam and have placed it a handful of times. It worked pretty well, but there was one time when i was placing it well over my head just barely within reach, it kept wanting to twist when i pulled the trigger because i couldn't get both fingers firmly on the trigger. The power cams don't have this issue because you can use the trigger bar with a single finger. Just my preference.


unrest


Oct 28, 2009, 5:30 PM
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Re: [Mariofercol] More trad gear [In reply to]
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I have a full set of Camalot C4's and a full set of Master Cams. Where I climb the Master Cam 00 is the goto for a lot of what I do which is thin finger roofs that have splitter cracks going up them on a side. I love the flexible stems of the master cams and when you slot them they hold hard and fast (not that the C4's don't).

I actually have my masters racked with my c4's side by side in the sense that I match the sizes. I match my c4 with it's closest similar master cam and that's how I rack. I find that the Camalots from 0 to 2 nicely match the Master Cams from 00 to 6. I might have the 2 of the camalots wrong but I think that's right. Anyway, they compliment one another very well. I also match one piece of passive pro with each set of cams that way I have some choices. I prefer to use hexes because they have a long width and a narrow height (or is it the other way).

Good hunting though. See if you can demo some master cams somewhere. My shop of choice lets me borrow gear from the owner. I've built a relationship there and he trusts me. It's a great thing to have.


granite_grrl


Oct 29, 2009, 6:37 AM
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Re: [Mariofercol] More trad gear [In reply to]
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I've climbed with TCUs for years and got my first Master Cam last year. I just wish I could justify a full set of them!

Metolious cams are solid, but a lot of people still don't like them. It usually boils down to personal preference. The best thing you could do would probably find some people to climb with that have a rack of Master cams and see what YOU think of them.


billcoe_


Oct 29, 2009, 7:53 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] More trad gear [In reply to]
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The Metolius cams are lighter than camalots, so you can carry more on those long Squamish routes.


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