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CDN
Oct 29, 2009, 4:56 PM
Post #1 of 14
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Registered: Jan 26, 2007
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Between these 3 nuts:
BD microstopper (Copper/Steel)
RP nut (Brass)
DMM peenut (aluminum)
Which would be best to supplement my bigger nuts for mostly granite and limestone climbing? This is mostly for trad, with the expectation of aid in the future.
The microstoppers are the most expensive, then the RP's, then the peenuts. These three choices because I can get them fairly easily.
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martinheynert
Oct 29, 2009, 5:26 PM
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Well, I own the DMM Peenuts and have sometimes used the BD's. Both are not strong enough to hold a serious trad fall. The problem is the small size. If only a little, little crystal of rock breaks away under the contact points, these tools will slide through instead of catching you. The "corridor" is to small to be reliable. Thus, I use them seldom and if, I prefer the Peenuts. The offer more choices and seems to be more stable (stronger cables in the small sizes).
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sungam
Oct 29, 2009, 5:52 PM
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Have you glanced at the DMM IMP's? I havn't used them but the stats on them make them seem like suped up RPs.
Offsets are great, too. And by great I mean the best.
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climboard
Oct 29, 2009, 8:43 PM
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In order of usefulness-
1. DMM/HB Offsets- not on your list but I use them more than my other micronuts.
2. RPs- tough to find but the IMPs look like a good substitute.
3. BD Microstopper.
4. DMM Peenuts- I haven't used these. They seem to have a good rep but aren't as strong as the previous three.
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rokshoxbkr19
Oct 29, 2009, 9:55 PM
Post #6 of 14
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Registered: Oct 30, 2002
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I second the DMM offsets as the best "micro"nuts on the market. I also found a lot of value in Rock Empire Brassies, but DMM is top of th list for sure!
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minibiter
Oct 29, 2009, 10:28 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2007
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I only have direct experience with the peenuts, but I've fallen on #'s 1 through 3, and they held. Small falls, 15' max, but then again they're small gear!
Can't offer any firsthand experience with the others, but I know the peenuts are good.
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CDN
Oct 30, 2009, 2:51 PM
Post #8 of 14
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Thanks for the responses. I will look into the DMM/HB offsets further.
I am not planning to fall on these, but it takes some of the pressure off when there are no other options for protection.
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the_climber
Oct 30, 2009, 6:20 PM
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climboard wrote: In order of usefulness- 1. DMM/HB Offsets- not on your list but I use them more than my other micronuts. 2. RPs- tough to find but the IMPs look like a good substitute. 3. BD Microstopper. 4. DMM Peenuts- I haven't used these. They seem to have a good rep but aren't as strong as the previous three.
That would bge a great rundown if you were only climbing granite.
CDN, I assume you're climbing in the canadian rockies.
As much as I love HB brassies (I'm down to my last remaining #4) the offset they have is not as useable in the rockies as elsewhere. For the rockies you're better off with the
RP's
Rock Empire brassies filed down to a custom taper
DMM peanuts - use a file to knock down some of that anodizing
DMM IMP's look like they would work quite well.
BD steel micros and Metolius astro nuts... not my choice on the local limestone.
YMMV
Edit to add: The best micro pro in the Canadian Rockies are KB's, bugaboo's, and beaks.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Oct 30, 2009, 6:21 PM)
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dr_feelgood
Oct 31, 2009, 2:19 AM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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Be careful with non brass micro nuts in softer/crystalline rock. A brass nut will conform to the shape of the placement when it is loaded, while a harder nut like the BD can shear some of the rock.
(<<<has sheared BD micronuts out of granite on bodyweight placements.)
YMMV
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climboard
Oct 31, 2009, 8:04 PM
Post #11 of 14
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In reply to: That would bge a great rundown if you were only climbing granite. CDN, I assume you're climbing in the canadian rockies.
Good point, I missed the part about limestone.
In reply to: Edit to add: The best micro pro in the Canadian Rockies are KB's, bugaboo's, and beaks.
From my limited experience with Rockies limestone, I don't doubt it.
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sspssp
Nov 4, 2009, 12:07 AM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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CDN wrote: Between these 3 nuts: BD microstopper (Copper/Steel) RP nut (Brass) DMM peenut (aluminum) Which would be best to supplement my bigger nuts for mostly granite and limestone climbing? This is mostly for trad, with the expectation of aid in the future.
I've used RPs and DMM Peenuts and HB offsets a lot and the BD a little bit.
I like the Peenuts the best. I especially like them in the bottom of Yosemite pin scars.
Strength is an issue with any micro placement but a good placement in granite is likely to hold a trad fall. I've not placed much gear in limestone, but I can't really imagine any micro nut being worth much in limestone, but ymmv.
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ryanb
Nov 4, 2009, 12:28 AM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
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I have bd micro's and metolius curved nuts. For thin free climbing on good granite I cary both and I have/would fall on either in the larger sizes.
I'll probably go with just the metolius next time i decide I am dragging around too much stuff.
Of your choices, I could go with the RP's because of the softer metal and the fact that they are a classic but I have no experience climbing trad on limestone.
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billcoe_
Nov 8, 2009, 3:48 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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I love RPS, but tend to carry the DMM Brass offsets more now. Look around at what everyone in your area is liking and thats your answer. You couldn't go wrong with the DMM IMP's, and can buy the DMM Offsets if you want later. For pin scars and aiding, the offsets rule.
The problem is, the brass/soldered ones wear out faster than the peenuts. So they will cost you more per placement.
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