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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 29, 2009, 1:59 PM
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This has not been a problem for me outdoor top roping or sport climbing, but recently in the gym i've noticed my technique is pretty bad.
I'm not sure if it is because the indoor routes are harder, and there is generally only 1 way to do these routes and holds are farther apart.
Anyways my problem is this. When attempting several of my moves, instead of doing so in a controlled manner, I dynamically kind of throw my hand at the hold. The best way for me to describe it is a dyno but with my feet still supporting me.
How can I train so I can climb in a more static manner, pulling myself close enough so I can reach up and grab the hold and then alter my weight instead of just lunging and hoping I grip the hold the way I wanted.
I realize some routes have dyno's that can't be avoided, as well as areas where a dynamic move is required. I basically want to clean up my technique so I look more graceful and climb more efficiently
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amigosandiego
Oct 29, 2009, 2:29 PM
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put your climbing garb on, hop in your dryer and tumble dry for at least 20 minutes, of course minus the dryer sheet, repeat if necessary.
-good day and good luck
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amigosandiego
Oct 29, 2009, 2:34 PM
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oh and do it slowly....real slow..careful to not dyno in or out of dryer..unless your into that kinda thing...then maybe helmet up...
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CrazyPetie
Oct 29, 2009, 2:52 PM
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its all in the foot-work. Watch some videos from Neil Gresham.
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johnwesely
Oct 29, 2009, 3:22 PM
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You are not climbing dynamically, you are climbing carelessly. I make most of my movement dynamic but I am in control.
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granite_grrl
Oct 29, 2009, 3:34 PM
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Climbing dynamically can often be the most efficient way to do a move, and therefore good technique if used at the right time. Sounds like you need to work on your technique in general. You can pick up a copy of the Self Coached Climber for some excellent technique drills.
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johnwesely
Oct 29, 2009, 4:08 PM
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I second the Self Coach Climber. The advice in the SCC allowed me to climb harder grades while getting successively weaker.
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rgold
Oct 29, 2009, 4:33 PM
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You might try lock-off training style climbing. You'll probably have to drop the grade in the gym a bit to do it. The idea is to take several seconds for every reach---three seconds seems about right; its the same amount of time a gymnast has to hold a static move to get credit for it. Count "one-one thousand, two-one thousand, three-one thousand" while slowly reaching for the next hold, and don't speed up or lunge at the very last instant.
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healyje
Oct 29, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Oh noooo!! Do not choke thine inner monkey - monkey good, monkey great. Ignore the robotics - listen to your monkey, you must...
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wmfork
Oct 29, 2009, 6:32 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote: its all in the foot-work. Watch some videos from Neil Gresham. |
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I3uller
Nov 6, 2009, 11:36 AM
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I've noticed also that indoor climbing builds strength but decreases proper technique while outdoor climbing increases proper technique usage but doesn't build muscle like a gym does. Different styles for different things. At the end of the day I usually will climb a V3 or V2 extremely slowly up and back down. Down climbing seems to require a lot more technique than going up.
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Kyle10376
Nov 16, 2009, 9:13 AM
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when you're gym climbing are you just bouldering or roping up as well? if you primarily a boulderer then you should maybe rope up and move slowly and focus on placing feet, not jabbing at holds. If i'm just training at a gym, after projecting something hard for a bit, i down grade from my redpoint and repeat the movements on a problem a bunch of times until I can make each move static.
Dynamic movement outside, especially leading sport routes can be bad. unless you've done the line before, you have no clue what the next hold may be like. So also focus on placing your hand on each hold and making sure its good before moving your weight on it. Think about it.....
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sp00ki
Nov 18, 2009, 1:19 PM
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wmfork wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: its all in the foot-work. Watch some videos from Neil Gresham. Don't know who said it first, but "stiff fingers make good footwork". I find a lot of truth in that. The more endurance you have in your fingers/hands, the more statically you'll be able to climb. When you have a lot more body strength/power in relation to your fingers/hands, you may be more efficient climbing dynamically.
+1.
When i first started climbing, things were sloppy. Then came strength. Things were still sloppy.
It wasn't until roughly the time i learned to open hand crimp-- and began developing the subsequent finger strength-- that i had the missing block which allowed me to truly climb statically and begin evolving hip and direction based body mechanics.
I'd say strong fingers and good hand technique potentially has more to do with my climbing statically and efficiently at a beginner's level than balance specifically.
It's roughly at the point of open hand crimps that beginners see themselves grow into climbers.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Nov 18, 2009, 1:22 PM)
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sp00ki
Nov 18, 2009, 1:21 PM
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johnwesely wrote: I second the Self Coach Climber. The advice in the SCC allowed me to climb harder grades while getting successively weaker.
If it doesn't work, i'll send you the bill.
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johnwesely
Nov 18, 2009, 1:29 PM
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sp00ki wrote: johnwesely wrote: I second the Self Coach Climber. The advice in the SCC allowed me to climb harder grades while getting successively weaker. After reading this over and over, i've finally decided to pull the trigger. If it doesn't work, i'll send you the bill.
That is fine. I won't pay up anyways.
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jjanowia
Nov 18, 2009, 1:35 PM
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Make more frequent visits to the church of sk8an
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sp00ki
Nov 18, 2009, 1:56 PM
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johnwesely wrote: sp00ki wrote: johnwesely wrote: I second the Self Coach Climber. The advice in the SCC allowed me to climb harder grades while getting successively weaker. After reading this over and over, i've finally decided to pull the trigger. If it doesn't work, i'll send you the bill. That is fine. I won't pay up anyways.
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 18, 2009, 2:39 PM
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I3uller wrote: Down climbing seems to require a lot more technique than going up.
down climbing doesn't require more technique, just different technique. it is not necessarily harder, you just probably practice it far less often.
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johnwesely
Nov 18, 2009, 2:59 PM
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crazy_fingers84 wrote: I3uller wrote: Down climbing seems to require a lot more technique than going up. down climbing doesn't require more technique, just different technique. it is not necessarily harder, you just probably practice it far less often.
Down climbing if definitely harder. Ever try down climbing a steep route? It is next to impossible.
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 18, 2009, 4:24 PM
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johnwesely wrote: crazy_fingers84 wrote: I3uller wrote: Down climbing seems to require a lot more technique than going up. down climbing doesn't require more technique, just different technique. it is not necessarily harder, you just probably practice it far less often. Down climbing if definitely harder. Ever try down climbing a steep route? It is next to impossible.
if you practiced down climbing as often as you practice climbing up, i doubt you would find it much more difficult. ask any schmo off the street if they think climbing up a steep cliff is next to impossible and they will probably tell you yes. however, if they were to practice it everyday, they would find it much more probable.
i am not claiming that downclimbing is easy... i am just saying it could be easier with practice.
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johnwesely
Nov 18, 2009, 5:18 PM
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crazy_fingers84 wrote: johnwesely wrote: crazy_fingers84 wrote: I3uller wrote: Down climbing seems to require a lot more technique than going up. down climbing doesn't require more technique, just different technique. it is not necessarily harder, you just probably practice it far less often. Down climbing if definitely harder. Ever try down climbing a steep route? It is next to impossible. if you practiced down climbing as often as you practice climbing up, i doubt you would find it much more difficult. ask any schmo off the street if they think climbing up a steep cliff is next to impossible and they will probably tell you yes. however, if they were to practice it everyday, they would find it much more probable. i am not claiming that downclimbing is easy... i am just saying it could be easier with practice.
It can get easier with practice but some moves are nigh impossible to reverse.
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 18, 2009, 5:40 PM
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johnwesely wrote: crazy_fingers84 wrote: johnwesely wrote: crazy_fingers84 wrote: I3uller wrote: Down climbing seems to require a lot more technique than going up. down climbing doesn't require more technique, just different technique. it is not necessarily harder, you just probably practice it far less often. Down climbing if definitely harder. Ever try down climbing a steep route? It is next to impossible. if you practiced down climbing as often as you practice climbing up, i doubt you would find it much more difficult. ask any schmo off the street if they think climbing up a steep cliff is next to impossible and they will probably tell you yes. however, if they were to practice it everyday, they would find it much more probable. i am not claiming that downclimbing is easy... i am just saying it could be easier with practice. It can get easier with practice but some moves are nigh impossible to reverse.
and some moves are nigh impossible to do forward... though they may get easier with practice.
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johnwesely
Nov 18, 2009, 6:06 PM
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crazy_fingers84 wrote: johnwesely wrote: crazy_fingers84 wrote: johnwesely wrote: crazy_fingers84 wrote: I3uller wrote: Down climbing seems to require a lot more technique than going up. down climbing doesn't require more technique, just different technique. it is not necessarily harder, you just probably practice it far less often. Down climbing if definitely harder. Ever try down climbing a steep route? It is next to impossible. if you practiced down climbing as often as you practice climbing up, i doubt you would find it much more difficult. ask any schmo off the street if they think climbing up a steep cliff is next to impossible and they will probably tell you yes. however, if they were to practice it everyday, they would find it much more probable. i am not claiming that downclimbing is easy... i am just saying it could be easier with practice. It can get easier with practice but some moves are nigh impossible to reverse. and some moves are nigh impossible to do forward... though they may get easier with practice.
I am arguing that most moves are objectively harder in reverse than they are forward. The move might get easier if you practice, but it is not going to get easier than doing the move forwards.
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