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jomagam
Nov 3, 2009, 12:57 PM
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I have one of these babies and wonder how strong you have to be to do pullups on the flat slopers. I can almost hang on them or do a quick pullup but then slip off while lowering. Outside I usually climb 5.10-s.
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bandycoot
Nov 3, 2009, 1:18 PM
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It's a HANGboard, not a pull-up board. Use the more difficult holds to hang from and train your finger strength. If you're doing pull-ups on the harder holds to hang from, you're not isolating properly. Train your fingers by hanging on tiny holds, and pull-ups on the easier holds.
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jomagam
Nov 3, 2009, 1:45 PM
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bandycoot wrote: It's a HANGboard, not a pull-up board.
Huh ? The training manual by Metolius does have pullups.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_simulator.html
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sidepull
Nov 3, 2009, 1:49 PM
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jomagam wrote: I have one of these babies and wonder how strong you have to be to do pullups on the flat slopers. I can almost hang on them or do a quick pullup but then slip off while lowering. Outside I usually climb 5.10-s.
You need to be about this strong:
(you can't see it, but I'm spreading my arms really far).
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bandycoot
Nov 3, 2009, 1:54 PM
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jomagam wrote: bandycoot wrote: It's a HANGboard, not a pull-up board. Huh ? The training manual by Metolius does have pullups. http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_simulator.html
It's not that complex. I never said they didn't recommend pullups. I also didn't recommend NOT doing pullups. However, quick question: Does Metolius recommend pullups on the flat slopers anywhere in their recommended workouts? There's some food for thought!
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shimanilami
Nov 3, 2009, 2:18 PM
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Common sense dictates that one should wait until he or she climbs outside 5.11's before attempting pull-ups on Metolius Simulator Flat Slopers.
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jomagam
Nov 3, 2009, 2:42 PM
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bandycoot wrote: It's a HANGboard, not a pull-up board.
My bad, bandycoot. I thought your sentence meant that one should HANG on the board, not do pullups. Silly me.
So to restate my question:
If you're using the flat slopers in your workout can you tell me:
a. how you use them
b. about what level you climb
Gracias.
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bandycoot
Nov 3, 2009, 2:52 PM
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For the most part I hang on the "bad" holds and do pullups on the "good" holds. I hang on the flat sloper, when I use it. However, I personally find it hard enough to hang on that I can slip off before I'm tired so I typically don't use it much. If you're curious how hard I climb, you can check my profile.
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irregularpanda
Nov 3, 2009, 3:02 PM
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sidepull wrote: jomagam wrote: I have one of these babies and wonder how strong you have to be to do pullups on the flat slopers. I can almost hang on them or do a quick pullup but then slip off while lowering. Outside I usually climb 5.10-s. You need to be about this strong: (you can't see it, but I'm spreading my arms really far).
That's totally wrong.
If you ask Doc Emmet Watson, he'd tell you you have to be 1.21 gigawatts strong. Duh.
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subantz
Nov 3, 2009, 9:49 PM
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Theres really nothin to it just keep hanging from them and your hands will get dtronger. After a few weeks you should be able to crank out a few pull ups on them. Always use a open hand on the hang board as this way you will get open hand strength and crimp strength in the same exercise. Hop this helps alittle
Just keep at it it will get easier
Also this is the first decent 1 star post I have put up in a while
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fluxus
Nov 5, 2009, 12:56 PM
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I did some looking at the published hang board workout a few months back. The Metolius workouts are horrid and don't make much sense at all, don't bother using them.
I often discourage people from doing pull-ups in the hopes of improving climbing performance, and this is no exception.
A hang board is really a specific tool and the range of things you can do with it is very narrow.
The two uses of hang boards are:
Local anaerobic endurance training and hypertrophy training of the flexors of the wrists and fingers, that's it.
Yea, I know people try to do other things as well but its not a very good tool for anything else.
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josiahdood
Nov 5, 2009, 10:52 PM
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The flat slopers are the best ones to do pull-ups on... hang 30, then do a few pull ups, hang 30, and if you're still around, do a few more. That should get those forearms a-pumpin'.
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CrazyPetie
Nov 6, 2009, 11:47 AM
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jomagam wrote: I have one of these babies and wonder how strong you have to be to do pullups on the flat slopers. I can almost hang on them or do a quick pullup but then slip off while lowering. Outside I usually climb 5.10-s.
You have to be strong enough to do pullups on the flat slopers to do pullups on the flat slopers...
In seriousness, you just need your core to be balanced under the holds to not slip off. If you can do a pullup, you should be able to do one on the slopers.
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dlintz
Nov 6, 2009, 1:50 PM
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shimanilami wrote: Common sense dictates that one should wait until he or she climbs outside 5.11's before attempting pull-ups on Metolius Simulator Flat Slopers.
This is true.
d.
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jomagam
Nov 7, 2009, 11:23 AM
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josiahdood wrote: The flat slopers are the best ones to do pull-ups on... hang 30, then do a few pull ups, hang 30, and if you're still around, do a few more. That should get those forearms a-pumpin'.
... and you can do that if your best redpoint is a 12a ? Just asking.
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johnwesely
Nov 7, 2009, 12:36 PM
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You could probably do it if you unblocked your chi. It amazing how many climbers have blocked chi and are therefore not climbing at their true level.
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CrazyPetie
Nov 7, 2009, 2:25 PM
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Yea you have to line up all your cheese.
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johnwesely
Nov 7, 2009, 3:03 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote: Yea you have to line up all your cheese.
Someone finally gets it.
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bigredscowboy
Nov 7, 2009, 5:28 PM
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use chalk
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rhythm164
Nov 7, 2009, 7:54 PM
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It's a contact strength thing, keep working it, you'll get it
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TheRucat
Nov 7, 2009, 9:54 PM
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irregularpanda wrote: sidepull wrote: jomagam wrote: I have one of these babies and wonder how strong you have to be to do pullups on the flat slopers. I can almost hang on them or do a quick pullup but then slip off while lowering. Outside I usually climb 5.10-s. You need to be about this strong: (you can't see it, but I'm spreading my arms really far). That's totally wrong. If you ask Doc Emmet Watson, he'd tell you you have to be 1.21 gigawatts strong. Duh.
Umm don't you mean Doc Emmet Brown...
Duh
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fluxus
Nov 8, 2009, 9:33 PM
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dlintz wrote: shimanilami wrote: Common sense dictates that one should wait until he or she climbs outside 5.11's before attempting pull-ups on Metolius Simulator Flat Slopers. This is true.
No offense but this is not true. Here are a few points:
First, its a hang board and what it is designed to do is train the flexors of the wrist and fingers. Pull-ups are neither here nor there when it comes to using the hang board to meet the goal it was designed for.
Second, a hang board is supplemental training. There is no direct link between climbing at a certain level and what you can do on a hang board. But more to the point, using the hang board is supplemental training for climbing; not the other way around. The post has reversed this logic.
Third, a climber using a device such as a hang board should start out by testing his or her current level and design a program to work up from that point. The flat slopers are something the climber can work up to as part of using the hang board, and there are a few obvious ways to do this.
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dlintz
Nov 8, 2009, 9:40 PM
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fluxus wrote: dlintz wrote: shimanilami wrote: Common sense dictates that one should wait until he or she climbs outside 5.11's before attempting pull-ups on Metolius Simulator Flat Slopers. This is true. No offense but this is not true. Here are a few points: First, its a hang board and what it is designed to do is train the flexors of the wrist and fingers. Pull-ups are neither here nor there when it comes to using the hang board to meet the goal it was designed for. Second, a hang board is supplemental training. There is no direct link between climbing at a certain level and what you can do on a hang board. But more to the point, using the hang board is supplemental training for climbing; not the other way around. The post has reversed this logic. Third, a climber using a device such as a hang board should start out by testing his or her current level and design a program to work up from that point. The flat slopers are something the climber can work up to as part of using the hang board, and there are a few obvious ways to do this.
Dude, we're just joking.
d.
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fluxus
Nov 8, 2009, 9:46 PM
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That is a huge relief!
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rhei
Nov 10, 2009, 7:34 PM
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Over time, chalk build up will make the flat slopers more difficult to hang on to. Brush them off thoroughly, then switch to using one of the magnesium carbonate/alcohol products such as Mammut’s Liquid chalk or Dry Hands. I prefer the latter.
Also, go through the detailed, informative discussion of training that Rockprodigy posted on this site.
[http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html]
He describes how to use a hangboard as part of a comprehensive program that also includes time on gym routes and using campus boards, . The post includes a suggested beginner hangboard workout that emphasize the systematic reduction of weight on some holds, depending on difficulty, then progressive addition of weight. That may be what you want to consider on the flat slopers. Finally, If you’re serious about using a hangboard as part of your training, keep a log of time, holds, weight, etc, and keep track of what works for you.
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