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angry
Nov 5, 2009, 4:57 PM
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I was looking through some quickdraws at the store on Tuesday. How can I tell if they're dynamic or static? Also, why are they sold in 6 packs. Wouldn't it make more sense if they were sold in 8 packs. 6 dynamic ones for the route and 2 static ones for the anchor. Am I the only who has thought about this?
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rockandlice
Nov 5, 2009, 4:59 PM
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Those are totally bunk dude. Yer supposed to use screamers.
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docburner
Nov 5, 2009, 5:00 PM
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Did you mean to post this from your troll account?
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acorneau
Nov 5, 2009, 5:40 PM
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Angry, it's time to get out of the sun.
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kylekienitz
Nov 5, 2009, 6:10 PM
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angry wrote: docburner wrote: Did you mean to post this from your troll account? huh?
busted
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angry
Nov 5, 2009, 6:15 PM
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kylekienitz wrote: angry wrote: docburner wrote: Did you mean to post this from your troll account? huh? busted
First off, I don't troll, ever. Second off, I've been climbing longer than all you naysayers. Third off, I climb more in a year than you've ever climbed, and finally this is a serious question. Why would I waste my time making this stuff up.
So I don't sport climb that much, I'm more of a trad guy. That being the case, if anyone knows how to check whether a quickdraw is dynamic or static, let me know. I'm sure it's common knowledge and I'm just spacing it.
Thanks.
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markcarlson
Nov 5, 2009, 7:10 PM
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angry wrote: First off, I don't troll, ever. Second off, I've been climbing longer than all you naysayers. Third off, I climb more in a year than you've ever climbed, and finally this is a serious question. Why would I waste my time making this stuff up. So I don't sport climb that much, I'm more of a trad guy. That being the case, if anyone knows how to check whether a quickdraw is dynamic or static, let me know. I'm sure it's common knowledge and I'm just spacing it. Thanks.
I have never seen anything I would call a dynamic quickdraw in a store, and after some searching I still haven't found anything. Link?
I know people who have dynamic draws thanks to kicking a meter off a half rope now and then while ice climbing. Is this similar to what you are referring to?
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jakedatc
Nov 5, 2009, 7:48 PM
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These come in lots of lengths and colors. if you take some pliers and bend them a few cm 2-3 should be enough then you have a dynamic draw. wire gates are nice and light.
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qtm
Nov 5, 2009, 8:32 PM
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Ah, you're just seeing the Supplemental packs, they're out of the standard packs.
The standard pack of draws are packs of 5 draws; three dynamic for clipping bolts, and two static for the anchor. If you really need to clip more than three bolts, you can buy the supplemental packs.
Probably best to ask the guys at the shop, tell you want the mixed pack of 5.
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bill413
Nov 5, 2009, 8:34 PM
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angry wrote: kylekienitz wrote: angry wrote: docburner wrote: Did you mean to post this from your troll account? huh? busted First off, I don't troll, ever. Second off, I've been climbing longer than all you naysayers. Third off, I climb more in a year than you've ever climbed, and finally this is a serious question. Why would I waste my time making this stuff up. So I don't sport climb that much, I'm more of a trad guy. That being the case, if anyone knows how to check whether a quickdraw is dynamic or static, let me know. I'm sure it's common knowledge and I'm just spacing it. Thanks.
Angry - I'm doubtful that you've been climbing loner than all of us.
I won't dispute that you climb harder than I do.
Woven slings (nylon, dyneema, whatever) are not dynamic. To my surprise, it turns out that it is much less the material than how it is woven that accounts for dynamic vs. static. You really can't rely on the QD to absorb energy.
Even trad draws are not dynamic (well, unless you use a screamer...or a bush) - it's the rope that gives us dynamic enegy absorption.
All that said, nylon slings are probably more stretchy than dyneema ones...but overall the QDs on sport climbs are not for energy absorption but for rope management.
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kylekienitz
Nov 5, 2009, 10:22 PM
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angry wrote: kylekienitz wrote: angry wrote: docburner wrote: Did you mean to post this from your troll account? huh? busted First off, I don't troll, ever. Second off, I've been climbing longer than all you naysayers. Third off, I climb more in a year than you've ever climbed, and finally this is a serious question. Why would I waste my time making this stuff up. So I don't sport climb that much, I'm more of a trad guy. That being the case, if anyone knows how to check whether a quickdraw is dynamic or static, let me know. I'm sure it's common knowledge and I'm just spacing it. Thanks.
OK, I'll quit the naysaying... and bite. I have never heard of there being a distinction between types of draws, static or dynamic (other than the obvious screamer, and I know you're not talking about nylon vs. dyneema). So, did they use to make two types? Or am I ignorant to a whole race of quickdraws?
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cilohabmilc
Nov 5, 2009, 11:14 PM
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I too would like to know what a dynamic quickdraw is... sounds like either a bogus marketing thing, or your gear shop employee is misinformed...
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airscape
Nov 5, 2009, 11:25 PM
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angry wrote: I was looking through some quickdraws at the store on Tuesday. How can I tell if they're dynamic or static? Also, why are they sold in 6 packs. Wouldn't it make more sense if they were sold in 8 packs. 6 dynamic ones for the route and 2 static ones for the anchor. Am I the only who has thought about this?
As far as I know there are only static draws. <-- most people have said this already.
I think a six pack makes sense, since most routes I have climbed need about 10 to 12 draws, so it's good to have 12 draws.
8 draws are not enough unless you skip bolts or the routes are very short.
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whipper
Nov 5, 2009, 11:31 PM
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cilohabmilc,
That is not right, I have been using dynamic quickdraws for years, but only for leading when the belayer is using a grigri....otherwise I use static, and for the anchors, maybee you should get a better gear shop employee, or I should sober up....
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shimanilami
Nov 5, 2009, 11:37 PM
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There is far too much conjecture in these posts to make any sense of the matter. We need the straight dope.
Does anyone know when Majid is coming back?
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cilohabmilc
Nov 5, 2009, 11:38 PM
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that's cool, i guess i'm the one that's misinformed... Could you give me a link to a website that sells them? I've never heard of them before and am wondering what the advantages are.
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airscape
Nov 6, 2009, 12:01 AM
Post #19 of 55
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cilohabmilc wrote: that's cool, i guess i'm the one that's misinformed... Could you give me a link to a website that sells them? I've never heard of them before and am wondering what the advantages are.
I'm with you, I have not heard of them either.
I would also like to know.
Why would it be advantages though? Will it spare the life of the bolts?
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USnavy
Nov 6, 2009, 12:33 AM
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acorneau wrote: angry wrote: So I don't sport climb that much, I'm more of a trad guy. That being the case, if anyone knows how to check whether a quickdraw is dynamic or static, let me know. I'm sure it's common knowledge and I'm just spacing it. I'll help you. Here is a static draw that you use on the bolts while climbing: [image]http://media.rei.com/media/991734.jpg[/image] Here is a dynamic draw you would use at the anchors: [image]http://media.rei.com/media/991734.jpg[/image] Glad I could clear that up for you.
Your suppose to use the dynamic draws on the bolts and the static ones on the anchors. (duh) 
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USnavy
Nov 6, 2009, 12:37 AM
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airscape wrote: cilohabmilc wrote: that's cool, i guess i'm the one that's misinformed... Could you give me a link to a website that sells them? I've never heard of them before and am wondering what the advantages are. I'm with you, I have not heard of them either. I would also like to know. Why would it be advantages though? Will it spare the life of the bolts?
Angry is trolling us all to hell. Dynamic quickdraws don’t exist and even asking about them is about as moronic as asking if you can lead on static rope. You can use a screamer to help lessen the impact force on a piece of pro but that’s about as close as you’re going to get to a “dynamic draw”. And using screamers on perfectly good bolts is stupid not to mention unsafe in some sport climbing situations.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 6, 2009, 12:42 AM)
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airscape
Nov 6, 2009, 1:19 AM
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USnavy wrote: airscape wrote: cilohabmilc wrote: that's cool, i guess i'm the one that's misinformed... Could you give me a link to a website that sells them? I've never heard of them before and am wondering what the advantages are. I'm with you, I have not heard of them either. I would also like to know. Why would it be advantages though? Will it spare the life of the bolts? Angry is trolling us all to hell. Dynamic quickdraws don’t exist and even asking about them is about as moronic as asking if you can lead on static rope. You can use a screamer to help lessen the impact force on a piece of pro but that’s about as close as you’re going to get to a “dynamic draw”. And using screamers on perfectly good bolts is stupid not to mention unsafe in some sport climbing situations.
Do you mean you can't lead on static rope?
(This post was edited by airscape on Nov 6, 2009, 1:19 AM)
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USnavy
Nov 6, 2009, 1:49 AM
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airscape wrote: USnavy wrote: airscape wrote: cilohabmilc wrote: that's cool, i guess i'm the one that's misinformed... Could you give me a link to a website that sells them? I've never heard of them before and am wondering what the advantages are. I'm with you, I have not heard of them either. I would also like to know. Why would it be advantages though? Will it spare the life of the bolts? Angry is trolling us all to hell. Dynamic quickdraws don’t exist and even asking about them is about as moronic as asking if you can lead on static rope. You can use a screamer to help lessen the impact force on a piece of pro but that’s about as close as you’re going to get to a “dynamic draw”. And using screamers on perfectly good bolts is stupid not to mention unsafe in some sport climbing situations. Do you mean you can't lead on static rope? 
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 6, 2009, 1:50 AM)
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