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granite_grrl
Oct 22, 2009, 4:43 PM
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qwert wrote: Risk factor 5: Quick draws Anything other than Petzl: 5 points Dogbones too skinny to grab: 10 points About half of my quickdraws are the skinny ones, but i actually think they are quite good to grab. how about 5 points for that?
Are you climbing slab or something?
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qwert
Oct 22, 2009, 7:07 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: qwert wrote: Risk factor 5: Quick draws Anything other than Petzl: 5 points Dogbones too skinny to grab: 10 points About half of my quickdraws are the skinny ones, but i actually think they are quite good to grab. how about 5 points for that? The only thing worse than carrying skinny draws that suck to grab is going around telling people that you actually think they are quite good to grab. Are you climbing slab or something?
qwert
(This post was edited by qwert on Oct 23, 2009, 1:12 PM)
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kriso9tails
Oct 22, 2009, 11:54 PM
Post #178 of 245
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qwert wrote: Actually i do enjoy slab climbing the most, but im not grabbing draws on slabs. Unlike ooverhanging crap slabs can be done with technique and not just stupid power. qwert
Overhanging crap slabs? Sounds kind of gross.
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jt512
Oct 23, 2009, 5:11 AM
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I tried this test out on myself: 10 points
And afterward, for some reason, my butt really hurt: 100 points.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Oct 23, 2009, 5:11 AM)
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billcoe_
Oct 23, 2009, 5:23 AM
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jt512 wrote: I tried this test out on myself: 10 points And afterward, for some reason, my butt really hurt: 100 points. Jay
Was Angry giving you the test?
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qwert
Oct 23, 2009, 1:16 PM
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kriso9tails wrote: qwert wrote: Actually i do enjoy slab climbing the most, but im not grabbing draws on slabs. Unlike ooverhanging crap slabs can be done with technique and not just stupid power. qwert Overhanging crap slabs? Sounds kind of gross.
does a , make it better?
qwert
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granite_grrl
Oct 23, 2009, 1:41 PM
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qwert wrote: granite_grrl wrote: qwert wrote: Risk factor 5: Quick draws Anything other than Petzl: 5 points Dogbones too skinny to grab: 10 points About half of my quickdraws are the skinny ones, but i actually think they are quite good to grab. how about 5 points for that? The only thing worse than carrying skinny draws that suck to grab is going around telling people that you actually think they are quite good to grab. Are you climbing slab or something? Actually i do enjoy slab climbing the most, but im not grabbing draws on slabs. Unlike ooverhanging crap, slabs can be done with technique and not just stupid power. qwert
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swoopee
Oct 24, 2009, 4:57 PM
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Apparently I am in the run away category. 
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swoopee
Oct 26, 2009, 11:09 PM
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I am sure you'll recognize me when I step out of the car and put my helmet on. 
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 31, 2009, 3:01 AM
Post #186 of 245
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Damn. Jay that is an awsome test. I scored 80 but that was only after I ditched the wire brush, pry bar, hand saw, etriers, jumar, bolt kit, hammer,pitons, hooks and drill
Seroiusly, with my normal rig I still got an 80 Wondering if I really have to give myself 10 points for Mad Rock Flash... I mean they are slippers fer christ sake.. just because they are the wrong brand...
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 31, 2009, 3:12 AM
Post #187 of 245
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A few years ago I soloed RBF on a super nasty cold windy bulletproof day. I got in my VW buss with helmet and Crampons on and drove to chapple pond working that clutch, gas and mushy brakes with rambocomps while stareing through the one tiny clear spot on my frozen windshield. Pulled into the Chaple pond parking and step out with helmet, crampons and tools ready to go. Fight the wind accross the frozen pond and solo Chiounards.. Must have racked up some noob points with that stunt
Drank about 10 Adirondak pale ales on the way back to VT on that trip....
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scm007
Nov 17, 2009, 1:43 AM
Post #188 of 245
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22.
Why the bias against the Cinch?
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jt512
Nov 17, 2009, 2:28 AM
Post #189 of 245
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scm007 wrote: 22. Why the bias against the Cinch?
I have no bias against the Cinch. Why the bias toward interpreting empirical observations as value judgments.
Jay
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scm007
Nov 17, 2009, 2:54 AM
Post #190 of 245
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jt512 wrote: scm007 wrote: 22. Why the bias against the Cinch? I have no bias against the Cinch. Why the bias toward interpreting empirical observations as value judgments. Jay
Ahh ok if the evidence points that way! I thought somehow you were just ranting against shit you didn't like. I use a cinch and I struggle on .11s, so your evidence is sound... so far :) .
Also, helmets with your name on the front +50,000
(This post was edited by scm007 on Nov 17, 2009, 2:56 AM)
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ClimbTheCrag
Dec 25, 2009, 5:39 AM
Post #191 of 245
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haha, I must have read the begining backwards cause i though you were saying petzl was bad and REI was good so I was like "what the heck?" |
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ClimbTheCrag
Dec 25, 2009, 5:46 AM
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Sweet -3 :D
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rossross
Nov 23, 2011, 8:57 PM
Post #193 of 245
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10 points
Arcteryx harness, old school vapor, getting a little fuzzy. I think a fuzzy "skinner" harness should be worth +100 points personally lol.
Non Petzl draws. Also I think old beat up draws (still solid) should be 0 points. New spirits with minimal scratches should be +20.
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tH1e-swiN1e
Nov 25, 2011, 5:05 PM
Post #194 of 245
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2 year revive..........WOW
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tscampbell
Nov 26, 2011, 12:02 AM
Post #195 of 245
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gonna have to say my 20 yr old gypsy rope bag (bomb proof) doesn't add any points....
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jt512
Nov 26, 2011, 2:19 AM
Post #196 of 245
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tH1e-swiN1e wrote: 2 year revive..........WOW
Yeah, who would have thought it would have taken this long?
Jay
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JimTitt
Nov 26, 2011, 12:07 PM
Post #197 of 245
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Took a while for the paint to dry on my Grigri.
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rgold
Nov 28, 2011, 5:38 AM
Post #198 of 245
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Well, I don't really sport climb much and don't have any dedicated sport climbing gear. So, my Noob index is 132 (*), making me one of the last people you should accept a belay from. At 132 sprinting may not be required, but a purposeful jog in the opposite direction is surely called for. However, see note below.
(*) Most of my gear is marked with red tape. If I had counted that in the scoring, my index would have been astronomical, and mere running away would probably not save you from the billowing cloud of noobish contamination surrounding me.
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JimTitt
Nov 28, 2011, 7:10 AM
Post #199 of 245
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I got 20 but I climb like a beginner!
Though there must be bonus points for the rain of bolts, drill bits, spare batteries and stuff that always appears I tip my sack out.
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guangzhou
Nov 29, 2011, 10:59 AM
Post #200 of 245
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You're at the sport crag waiting for your partner to arrive, an unkown climber walks up to you, and asks, "Hey, you want a belay?" You're on the spot. You'd like to get a warm-up burn in, but you don't want to end up on the wrong end of some hapless gymbie's rope. If you hesitate before answering, you risk offense. You must be definitive. It's either got to be, "Sure, that would be great," or "No thanks. I'm still a little hungover." You need a way to size up your potential partner that is systematic, fast, and accurate. In short, you need a
Screening Test for N00bs
Through years of keen observation, I have identified 10 key risk factors for n00bs. Give the climber the number of points indicated for each risk factor. Then sum the points to arrive at the climber's n00b risk score.
Risk factor 1: Helmet
Climber has a helmet at the crag: 2 points
Climber is wearing a helmet belaying: 10 points
Climber wore a helmet on the approach: 25 points
Climber got out of car wearing helmet: 100 points
Every-time or just from time to time?
In reply to: Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes Climber's shoes, if not slippers, are made from natural leather: 10 points* Climber's shoes are made by Mad Rock: 10 points *Exception 1: Climber's shoes are Firés: -50 points *Exception 2: Climber's shoes are EBs: -100 points
Love my fire, but also love my 5.10 red slippers. Rad Mock by Climb X is great too.
In reply to: Risk factor 3: Harness Any modern harness not made by Petzl: 5 points
Ouch, I have never liked a single Petzl Harness. Especially the gear loop layout.
In reply to: Risk factor 4: Belay device(s) Give the climber 10^n points, where n is the number of belay devices on the climber's harness in excess of one. In addition: Does not have a grigri: 10 points Has a Cinch: 10 points Has a device whose brand name is "ATC" followed by something: 10 points
Always two devices, oh well. (Often one of them is a gri-gri)
In reply to: Risk factor 5: Quick draws Anything other than Petzl: 5 points Dogbones too skinny to grab: 10 points Petzl logo on dogbones: -50 points
Skinny draws with wire-gates here. Even my runners are skinny with wire-gates.
In reply to: Risk factor 6: Rope bag Non-Metolius: 5 points None: 20 points
In reply to: Risk factor 7: Stick clip None: 10 points
In reply to: Risk factor 8: Unnecessary equipment 10^n points, where n is the number of items girth hitched to the climber's harness 10 points for each locking carabiner on the climber's harness not clipped to a belay device 50 points for each quick link on the climber's harness
Can you define unnecessary?
In reply to: Risk factor 9: REI 1 point for each appearance of the REI logo on the climber's gear 20 points for each appearance of an REI price tag on the climber's gear 100 points for an REI shopping bag containing the climber's gear
In reply to: Risk factor 10: The color red 1 point for each red item among the climber's gear, unless the gear is unscratched; then, 10 points. Red grigri: 15 points
I think all my gear is currently marked with red nail-polish.
In reply to: Scoring: 100 or more: Run away. 50–99 points: High n00b probability. Climb with at your own risk. 25–49 points: Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber. 0–24 points: Probably an experienced sport climber. Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do.
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