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Rufsen
Nov 18, 2009, 3:19 PM
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I have found one weakness i need to work on, yes i have the SCC and yes i have more than one area i need to work on, but this is pretty obvious compared to the rest.
I have problems initiating movement from a foot thats really high up, and i have a tencency to loose the tension in the higher leg if i initiate the movement with the lover leg or the arms.
Here's a description of the last boulder i had this problem on. Start with both hands on jug, reach straight up with right hand to poor pinch. Get right leg on starting hold and lunge out left to a decent hold.
I always end up pushing myself out from the wall, or having to use way to much effort to campus and then hold the swing when my right leg comes off.
Any good drills i can use to improve this?
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johnwesely
Nov 18, 2009, 3:39 PM
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It sounds like you are trying to initiate leftword movement with your right leg. That doesn't really make any sense.
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lena_chita
Nov 18, 2009, 6:26 PM
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I don't think it is a matter of drills, but rather a matter of modifying what you are doing. What you are doing isn't working.
I am not sure I am picturing this correctly...
Can you get your left foot on the starting hold, instead of right, and flag out your right?
or, if you have to step up high with your right, can you reverse-flag your left foot before you try to reach out left with your hand?
is your butt sticking too far out, and do you need to turn the left hip in?
Sometimes a very slight modification makes a difference. There was a move I couldn't do on a recent boulder problem. It involved a crossover with a right hand while the right foot was really high, and left hand was on a sloper, and every time I did it, my feet would cut. The problem turned out to be not in my feet or core strength-- but rather in how I was holding on to the left sloper. A small change, grabbing with the left hand onto a different part of the hold that allowed me to engage a thumb-- and bingo, the feet stopped cutting.
Watch what other climbers do-- the ones who successfully stick this move. If you stil can't see what you are doing differently, ask them to watch you and make suggestions.
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suprasoup
Nov 19, 2009, 8:47 AM
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johnwesely wrote: It sounds like you are trying to initiate leftword movement with your right leg. That doesn't really make any sense.
That's standard tricks of the trade. For the OP, Lena's pretty much got it right. Reverse flag your left leg, but also frog step the right leg. That should get your hips in and more of your weight on the leg. If you can use left leg instead of the right, try a frog step or back step (whichever feels less awkward) with the left while flagging out the right.
All speculation. Your best course of action is to watch someone else do it and see what they're doing.
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johnwesely
Nov 19, 2009, 9:11 AM
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suprasoup wrote: johnwesely wrote: It sounds like you are trying to initiate leftword movement with your right leg. That doesn't really make any sense. That's standard tricks of the trade. For the OP, Lena's pretty much got it right. Reverse flag your left leg, but also frog step the right leg. That should get your hips in and more of your weight on the leg. If you can use left leg instead of the right, try a frog step or back step (whichever feels less awkward) with the left while flagging out the right. All speculation. Your best course of action is to watch someone else do it and see what they're doing.
Ok, I agree with you now. I misread the post. I thought the right hand pinch was out right not above the jug. It might be hard to lunge for the hold with the left flag though.
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ryanb
Nov 19, 2009, 9:22 AM
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Rufsen wrote: Any good drills i can use to improve this?
Samba.
It might help you become more aware of where your hips are. I'm not the most flexible person out there but I find there is a certain class of move where I can't weight a high step directly so I have to do a little tip toe and dynamically wiggle my hips up on top of the hight foot before I can move my hands.
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Rufsen
Nov 20, 2009, 7:03 AM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2008
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suprasoup wrote: johnwesely wrote: It sounds like you are trying to initiate leftword movement with your right leg. That doesn't really make any sense. That's standard tricks of the trade. For the OP, Lena's pretty much got it right. Reverse flag your left leg, but also frog step the right leg. That should get your hips in and more of your weight on the leg. If you can use left leg instead of the right, try a frog step or back step (whichever feels less awkward) with the left while flagging out the right. All speculation. Your best course of action is to watch someone else do it and see what they're doing.
The other guys who can do it seems to be able to use the upper leg to move upwards, while using the lower leg and arms to move to the side. I know this is the best solution, but i just dont seem to be able to do the same thing.
Flagging will make the move left very hard since it will force you to lock off at the poor pinch, you need the push from the lover leg to do that.
It's a pretty complicated move, but i need to learn this. I suck at using my legs when they're really high.
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johnwesely
Nov 20, 2009, 8:03 AM
Post #8 of 8
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Do Pistols.
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