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Couloirman
Nov 18, 2009, 6:54 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2008
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I just mounted my new simulator into my wall, but was perusing some websites that said that metal studs are not made to be load bearing and that I'm going to possibly cause the studs to fail and rip up a whole mess of wall.
I have the simulator mounted above my bedroom closet door to a piece of plywood with small T nuts and bolts(not as big as normal climbing bolts, but the biggest diameter that would fit through the mounting holes), and then the plywood is mounted to the metal studs with 3-4 screws per stud for a total of 11 screws in 3 studs(but there are no screws attaching the simulator into studs, the simulator is ONLY attached to the plywood via the small t nuts). There is a stud immediately on each side of the door, presumably(hopefully!) that go all the way to the ground, and a stud in the center of the doorframe that I guess is just hanging out and hopefully attached solidly to something from above.
Are metal studs strong enough for normal sized guy pulling on a hangboard? Are some metal studs in a newer apartment building different than others in terms of strength and its kind of a gamble as to whether or not Ill cause some serious damage?
If I just keep an eye on it, make sure the wall doesn't look like its bowing out in either direction, and its not making any noise when I do pull ups on it can I just assume it'll be all good? Maybe move slowly around on it and try to keep the forces I put on it to a minimum?
Thanks
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adatesman
Moderator
Nov 18, 2009, 8:24 PM
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Ever see a metal stud? My guess is no, as there's a reason they're said to be ill-suited for this sort of thing; they're used because they're cheaper than lumber and barely strong enough to hold up drywall. I suspect that either the wall will bow or the screws will pop out (the metal studs are only ~0.060" thick {possibly less}, so not much to bite into). Either way, video would be amusing.
(This post was edited by adatesman on Nov 18, 2009, 8:25 PM)
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whipper
Nov 18, 2009, 8:44 PM
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Well the answer is, it depends. I am an old metal stud framer, and some metal studs could hold up a truck, it just depends on the gauge. What you have is most likely going to be 20 or 25 gauge if its just a demising wall on the interior of your apt. If they are 18 or 16 gauge you will be totally ok. The best way you have to tell is if a regular sharp pointed dry wall screw goes in easily, then they are 20-25 gauge. If you had to use a self tapper, or push like hell to get them in, then you are ok.
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Couloirman
Nov 18, 2009, 8:51 PM
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whipper wrote: Well the answer is, it depends. I am an old metal stud framer, and some metal studs could hold up a truck, it just depends on the gauge. What you have is most likely going to be 20 or 25 gauge if its just a demising wall on the interior of your apt. If they are 18 or 16 gauge you will be totally ok. The best way you have to tell is if a regular sharp pointed dry wall screw goes in easily, then they are 20-25 gauge. If you had to use a self tapper, or push like hell to get them in, then you are ok.
when my drill bit hit the stud, it took a decent amount of force/time with the drill spinning to put in a pilot hole. The bit stopped, and didnt make progress for several seconds while the bit spun and I pressed.
So I should try to screw in a self tapper with no pilot hole and if it goes in easy then its not safe, but if it doesn't go in super easy Im probably ok? Ill try and ask management if they know what gauge studs we have tomorrow.
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charlie.elverson
Nov 18, 2009, 9:01 PM
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I've never done metal framing, but I've got a fair amount of home repair experience. my concern would be torquing the screw inside the stud and damaging the wall. I'm just thinking about the particle board sitting on the upper jam. This isn't made to be load bearing (although, many door styles will also have the upper jam supported by a couple 2x4s). It's also being supported by the dry wall. Once again, not load bearing. so, if the door jam breaks, the dry wall will get torn through and the screw will simply twist downward in the stud. Sorry, I'm sure I've used the wrong words to describe things, but I think my description is pretty clear.
like I said, I'm not an expert, if I'm missing some crucial detail feel free to correct me.
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Couloirman
Nov 18, 2009, 9:05 PM
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charlie.elverson wrote: I've never done metal framing, but I've got a fair amount of home repair experience. my concern would be torquing the screw inside the stud and damaging the wall. I'm just thinking about the particle board sitting on the upper jam. This isn't made to be load bearing (although, many door styles will also have the upper jam supported by a couple 2x4s). It's also being supported by the dry wall. Once again, not load bearing. so, if the door jam breaks, the dry wall will get torn through and the screw will simply twist downward in the stud. Sorry, I'm sure I've used the wrong words to describe things, but I think my description is pretty clear. like I said, I'm not an expert, if I'm missing some crucial detail feel free to correct me.
hmm, the plywood is resting on the horizontal part of the jam, but I figured the screws would take all the weight off that. I would think Id hear some noise of stuff creeping if I was putting much weight on it if the screws were sagging/not fully supporting my weight, no?
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charlie.elverson
Nov 18, 2009, 9:22 PM
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I would think as long as the jam is still intact the screws simply keep the board from rolling forward. Maybe the jam can take having the weight on it, but the door jam above my room can't hold me at all anymore because of all the chin ups I've done off of it. After all, the jam is only nailed in so any kind of outward force would start pulling the nails out.
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dugl33
Nov 18, 2009, 9:41 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
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I'm gonna guess it will be fine. Sounds like the weight is spread out over enough attachment points. Just hangs, though. No dynamic campus crap.
Be sure to let us know if you tear the thing off the wall.
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Neel
Nov 19, 2009, 7:15 AM
Post #9 of 12
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Registered: Sep 21, 2008
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i'm thinking that screws would eventually rip out... have you considered toggle bolts? they require drilling larger hole in the wall, but apparently people mount TVs to metal studs with these all the time
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Couloirman
Nov 19, 2009, 4:27 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2008
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Well, I wont know about the stud gauge for a few days, but so far so good. Did a few 10 minute sessions on it today and it isn't moving/making a sound.........
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zealotnoob
Nov 19, 2009, 4:44 PM
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I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night and if it feels solid, you'll be fine. If not, you'll learn something about drywall repair. Win/win.
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Couloirman
Nov 24, 2009, 1:30 PM
Post #12 of 12
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whipper wrote: Well the answer is, it depends. I am an old metal stud framer, and some metal studs could hold up a truck, it just depends on the gauge. What you have is most likely going to be 20 or 25 gauge if its just a demising wall on the interior of your apt. If they are 18 or 16 gauge you will be totally ok. The best way you have to tell is if a regular sharp pointed dry wall screw goes in easily, then they are 20-25 gauge. If you had to use a self tapper, or push like hell to get them in, then you are ok.
I have been told they are a 16 'inch' gauge. Is that different than 16 gauge? Its been good to go thus far so I think Im in the clear but Im just checking anyway.
thanks
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