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dugl33
Nov 16, 2009, 3:41 PM
Post #26 of 73
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I'm guessing these aren't pics of what's going on at Moss Island, huh? Crickets... Didn't think so.
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 16, 2009, 3:49 PM
Post #27 of 73
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To be fair no this is not the area in question. I am just laying out some general facts about the bolted top anchor VS Tree anchor debate. This happens over and over @ many diferent areas and it is usualy based on emotions rather than reality. It may well be that the area in question is a low impact area with low traffick and no erosion problems. if that is the case than perhaps the trees would be ok to use. If the area does in fact see daily traffic then it most likly would be much lower impact to have fixed bolted anchors.. Ultimatly the locals and land managers will have to work out the solution that best suits them. It is however a hard cold fact that running to land managers and raising a stink about newly placed bolts is allmost gaurenteed to cause serious access problems.
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dugl33
Nov 16, 2009, 4:05 PM
Post #28 of 73
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tradmanclimbs wrote: To be fair no this is not the area in question. I am just laying out some general facts about the bolted top anchor VS Tree anchor debate. This happens over and over @ many diferent areas and it is usualy based on emotions rather than reality. It may well be that the area in question is a low impact area with low traffick and no erosion problems. if that is the case than perhaps the trees would be ok to use. If the area does in fact see daily traffic then it most likly would be much lower impact to have fixed bolted anchors.. Ultimatly the locals and land managers will have to work out the solution that best suits them. It is however a hard cold fact that running to land managers and raising a stink about newly placed bolts is allmost gaurenteed to cause serious access problems. Well, we do agree on this. From my original post... If the authorities aren't involved, do not involve them. Talk to as many local climbers as possible and try to agree on what to do, then do it. ************************************* I'm not anti-bolt. I love bolts, clip them when I find them. And I'm not even really against convenience anchors. Its just that when an area has few pre-existing fixed anchors, readily available alternatives, and perhaps no real damage to vegetation and trees -- in this case this is unknown, and you add 15+ (perhaps shiny) bolt hangers... this is not discretion. Not even close. I've climbed at areas where the same trees have been slung, sometimes several times a day, for at least 20 years, and they look the same now as they did then. If a tree is struggling, hey, do something about it. Even those hard core trad guys can tell what you're up to, and will leave it alone.
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rhythm164
Nov 16, 2009, 6:48 PM
Post #29 of 73
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tradmanclimbs wrote: So you don't think that CLIMBERs makeing a big stink about bolts that the town otherwise would never even know existed might just be that activity that adversly affects access? It is unlikely that these would go unnoticed by the town for very long.
tradmanclimbs wrote: In fact i would venture that the ONLY people who will pass up a tree anchor for gear TOP ROPE anchor are NooBs learning or practiceing their gear anchors. that's a rather broad generalization. That's not to say I shy away from tossing a sling around a tree, but if there's a solid gear placement right next to it I'm just as likely to throw something in there too.
tradmanclimbs wrote: Properly constructed top anchors should be just below the top edge of the cliff where hikers can not easily see them. please refer to other posts describing the location of said bolts. I'm not an anti-bolt guy. I've got no beef with bolts whether they're part of a TR set up or a sport climb. However, if you spent any time at this particular crag, which you clearly have not, you would likely see that these bolts needlessly jeopardize access.
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kobaz
Nov 16, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #30 of 73
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I'm heading out towards smallbany this weekend to visit my family for thanksgiving week. I'll be driving right by little falls... so if noone has taken any pictures by then... I'll get a few.
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lostlazy
Nov 17, 2009, 5:34 AM
Post #31 of 73
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Talk to the locals.
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j_ung
Nov 17, 2009, 2:05 PM
Post #32 of 73
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jut780 wrote: I'm no Ken Nicols...i'm not about to go and mess with the intergrity of those bolt hangers, not my responsibilty to foil someones effort to "safely protect" climbs. I just wanted to bring this topic up and see the climbing communities view on the matter of placing bolts where they shouldn't be. I am hoping that the individual responsible for this bolting sees the concern other climbers might have and removes what was installed before an area closes as a result... My general view on bolts is pretty much the same as yours. But, I think the best way to mitigate the damage, especially in the eyes of pissed-off land managers is to remove these bolts responsibly and, ahem, artistically. Climbers created a problem for them. They'll view it as a plus, if climbers fix the problem for them, too. What kind of bolts are they?
(This post was edited by j_ung on Nov 17, 2009, 2:05 PM)
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dugl33
Nov 17, 2009, 2:57 PM
Post #33 of 73
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j_ung wrote: jut780 wrote: I'm no Ken Nicols...i'm not about to go and mess with the intergrity of those bolt hangers, not my responsibilty to foil someones effort to "safely protect" climbs. I just wanted to bring this topic up and see the climbing communities view on the matter of placing bolts where they shouldn't be. I am hoping that the individual responsible for this bolting sees the concern other climbers might have and removes what was installed before an area closes as a result... My general view on bolts is pretty much the same as yours. But, I think the best way to mitigate the damage, especially in the eyes of pissed-off land managers is to remove these bolts responsibly and, ahem, artistically. Climbers created a problem for them. They'll view it as a plus, if climbers fix the problem for them, too. What kind of bolts are they? No need to get, ahem, artistic*. Depending on what this means this is the worst thing to do. What about removing all of the hangers and leaving a note. "Hey, I've got all your hangers, give me a call if you want them back. I'd like to talk about what's going on." Sure, you'll be taking your chances on how this will play out, but you might smoke out mr. gridbolt. edit to add -- I probably misunderstood what you meant here. At first glance I took this as a euphemistic expression, to hammer down the hangers, or some such nonsense. This probably isn't what you are saying... but hey, I've seen this sort of crap go on...
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Nov 17, 2009, 3:32 PM)
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gthomann
Nov 18, 2009, 5:07 AM
Post #34 of 73
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I was climbing at Moss Island yesterday afternoon and took pictures of the bolts. In fact I used two of them to set up a rope. Enclosed are 3 pictures; a back up bolt behind two old ones, the two that I used and two by the Weisner climb (somebody took one of the hangers here). My impression from yesterday is that the bolts are handy and not very conspicuous.
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Attachments:
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bolt1.jpg
(133 KB)
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bolt2.jpg
(118 KB)
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bolt4.jpg
(123 KB)
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jut780
Nov 18, 2009, 10:27 AM
Post #36 of 73
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cobleskill
Nov 18, 2009, 6:14 PM
Post #39 of 73
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jut780 In reply to: If you're mad about something for more than 15 seconds the problem is your ego. Discuss this as much as you need but please don't fight and ruin my access! Let time be the judge of our actions.
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cobleskill
Nov 18, 2009, 6:20 PM
Post #40 of 73
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Just to clarify I didnt do the bolting. I am just posing the question how can any of us be the judge and jury.
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freedan
Nov 19, 2009, 6:37 AM
Post #41 of 73
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Was there over the weekend for 1st time in a couple of months, try to avoid the high use shit show times at Moss Isle. I was a little disturbed by the bolts. Anchors can be built quite easily on most of the climbs without slinging trees. It is a convenience for some but climbs like the Curbar and Snow White have been climbed on gear anchors for decades. Why turn the place into an outdoor climbing gym (I know it already is, but are bolted anchors really necessary?). Noticed that several bolts had hangers removed. Wouldn't be surprised if they all get taken before long. Any idiot with a wrench can access them since they are placed over the top edge of the climb instead of at the top of the climb.
(This post was edited by freedan on Nov 19, 2009, 8:00 AM)
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dingus
Nov 19, 2009, 6:50 AM
Post #42 of 73
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jut780 wrote: Obviously you haven't climbed here before, there is adequate gear placement on all of these recently bolted climbs so the trees are not an issue, If they weren't an issue why'd you bring em up? DMT
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dingus
Nov 19, 2009, 6:53 AM
Post #43 of 73
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dugl33 wrote: Whatever happened to "leave no trace"? These sound like convenience anchors to me. ALL... anchors are convenience anchors every last one of them, 20 years old, yesterday's, tomorrow's - 100% unnecessary and there for the convenience of climbers. Some are more convenient than others though. DMT
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dingus
Nov 19, 2009, 6:56 AM
Post #44 of 73
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cobleskill wrote: Just to clarify I didnt do the bolting. I am just posing the question how can any of us be the judge and jury. We are human. Duh. DMT
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j_ung
Nov 19, 2009, 7:29 AM
Post #45 of 73
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dugl33 wrote: j_ung wrote: jut780 wrote: I'm no Ken Nicols...i'm not about to go and mess with the intergrity of those bolt hangers, not my responsibilty to foil someones effort to "safely protect" climbs. I just wanted to bring this topic up and see the climbing communities view on the matter of placing bolts where they shouldn't be. I am hoping that the individual responsible for this bolting sees the concern other climbers might have and removes what was installed before an area closes as a result... My general view on bolts is pretty much the same as yours. But, I think the best way to mitigate the damage, especially in the eyes of pissed-off land managers is to remove these bolts responsibly and, ahem, artistically. Climbers created a problem for them. They'll view it as a plus, if climbers fix the problem for them, too. What kind of bolts are they? No need to get, ahem, artistic*. Depending on what this means this is the worst thing to do. What about removing all of the hangers and leaving a note. "Hey, I've got all your hangers, give me a call if you want them back. I'd like to talk about what's going on." Sure, you'll be taking your chances on how this will play out, but you might smoke out mr. gridbolt. edit to add -- I probably misunderstood what you meant here. At first glance I took this as a euphemistic expression, to hammer down the hangers, or some such nonsense. This probably isn't what you are saying... but hey, I've seen this sort of crap go on... My bad. I meant patch the holes so not even the bolter knows where they were.
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goodluck1
Nov 19, 2009, 11:24 AM
Post #46 of 73
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I haven't seen the bolts yet. I climb a lot at Moss Island so I'll see them soon. Did somebody go too far by putting the bolts there? Does it make it safer? Is the island vegetation actually protected by having the bolts? Will the "authorities" close MI? (Who are the authorities in this case? MI is NOT owned by the city of LF.) Tempers seem pretty high and the cat is out of the bag in terms of the "authorities" so it seems that they will be removed. Should the bolts on the Virgin and Fred P. also be removed? They have been there over 20 years now with no issues that I know of. But they should go if the others go too.
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zac2944
Nov 19, 2009, 11:35 AM
Post #47 of 73
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I moved from Boston to Upstate NY last year and have been climbing at Moss Island quite a bit. Got my summer-pass from the police station and made it out quite a few times. I enjoy it a lot. Nice rock, easy access, and for the most part a lot of nice climbers there. I've got a summer place up in the woods not too far from there, so it makes for easy weekend trips. I kind of reminds me of Quincy Quarry outside of Boston; as someone put it, "an outdoor gym". I was there on 11/6 and 11/7; a beautiful fall weekend. I noticed the new bolts too. I asked around about them but no one I talked to know who put them in. I went to set up on Sno-White/Pleasure Crack area and there they were. I normally sling a tree and use the rock in that area, but the bolts were as others have mentioned "a convenience". I'm fine with them being there since they are "convenient", doesn't bother me one bit. I just hope who ever put them in did it with permission. Access is always an issue and it would be a shame if the many who have been enjoying that crag over the years have to pay because some knucklehead got bolt happy with out the proper permission. I'm not sure how anyone could ever think it is OK to bolt at a place like Moss Island without permission. It's not some crag miles out in the wilderness. I think it is great that the city of Little Falls lets people climb at such a historic place. People need to respect the fact that climbing there is a privilege.
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zac2944
Nov 19, 2009, 11:39 AM
Post #48 of 73
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goodluck1 wrote: I haven't seen the bolts yet. I climb a lot at Moss Island so I'll see them soon. Did somebody go too far by putting the bolts there? Does it make it safer? Is the island vegetation actually protected by having the bolts? Will the "authorities" close MI? (Who are the authorities in this case? MI is NOT owned by the city of LF.) Tempers seem pretty high and the cat is out of the bag in terms of the "authorities" so it seems that they will be removed. Should the bolts on the Virgin and Fred P. also be removed? They have been there over 20 years now with no issues that I know of. But they should go if the others go too. I hope they all stay; for the convenience. Just my opinion. Sure, they are a little unnecessary in some spots, but I can see how using the bolts can save some of the fragile vegetation.
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 19, 2009, 11:53 AM
Post #49 of 73
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I have climbed at moss is. a few times over the years. To give someone who has never been there before i'll describe it. Its a small park with a few hiking trails and a band of cliff's ~35' high. The anchors available are mostly small trees as the larger ones are pretty far from the edge of the cliffs, which makes them difficult to set anchors from. I do not remember there being too much sport or trad at this area. There are routes that have older bolts on top of the cliff for convenience. If you are from Colorado, essentially it's like a small Castlewood Canyon with less scenery. Here's my take on the issue: The place is a pain in the ass to climb at and barely worth the time it takes to setup a tr. You can spend up to 30 minutes trying to build a decent anchor on a combination of trees, slung boulders and using pro. It's not a pristine wilderness. If the bolts are placed on top of the cliff so that nobody can see them from the bottom (as the existing bolts are), they are not impacting the aesthetic value of the cliff band (at least not as much as the chalk that is everywhere). The point I am trying to make is that the OP is making a mountain out of a mole hill. If you want to sit around and build anchors all day to climb a 35' cliff then have at it. The only reason to be upset with the bolter is if they affect access; the possibility of this in itself is not cool.
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cobleskill
Nov 19, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #50 of 73
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I would agree, leave the bolts for now. See what happens from here. If it becomes an access issue post it and let me know. I will be the first one to offer help cleaning this mess up. Don't know how but I will help. On the pristine cliff issue. I would just like to mention it is a pretty place but it is a rerouted river for god sakes. We moved a river for the lock. There are towers. There are giant staples in the ground everywhere. In reply to: I have a harder time with the ethics of bolting in the back country than where man has made serious changes like the lock or the railroad bed. Now thats impact. By the way how did the land managers find out. I would guess one of us (climbers) let the cat out of bag? Some one who felt it was there place to rant? My guess is if no one mentioned the complained to the land mangers then they are not even going to notice.
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