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jookyhead


Nov 19, 2009, 4:08 PM
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U.S. DWS  (North_America: United_States)
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I've got about a month off of work come June and am hoping to check out various DWS areas across the states. Any suggestions? Is Summersville still off limits? Would Pace Bend be worth the trip? Any beta is appreciated. Thanks all.


munky


Nov 21, 2009, 5:00 AM
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Re: [jookyhead] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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As long as you aren't explicitly jumping off of the cliffs at Summersville you will be fine. I'm a bit biased as I live in Fayetteville, WV and love the NRG so much that i moved here but really man DWS at teh lake on a summer day is amazing and the rock is by far world class and endless. We don't have the inspiring arches like Mallorca but we do have superior grade sandstone that forms horizontals, pockets, brain slopers, splitter cracks, tiered roofs, and everything else between to make for fantastic climbing. I'd go so far to say that the rock is better than Mallorca because of the splitter cracks and dihedral lines that are availabel in addition to the overhanging lines. THE PLACE IS SICK! COME CHECK IT OUT.


Partner angry


Nov 21, 2009, 7:05 AM
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Re: [jookyhead] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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I've been seeing some absolutely pee your pants (not problem cause you're wearing a swim suit) good DWS photos of Lake Powell over on MP. There is also allusion of even better and more epic stuff that there aren't photos of. We're talking about 100' water. Pretty effing cool.

Something to keep in mind as well is islands near the US that aren't the US. Bermuda has 125 established DWS lines, some of them are ulta classic. I'm sure the US and British Virgin Islands have a ton, as well as the Caymans. Cuba is a climbers paradise.

Just some ideas.


camhead


Nov 21, 2009, 9:56 AM
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Re: [angry] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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Pace Bend is worth the trip. If you know someone with a boat, check out Lake Whitney in North Texas as well. Lake Powell looks awesome, and if you do some searching, Flaming Gorge reservoir has a LOT of potential.


jookyhead


Nov 24, 2009, 11:25 AM
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Re: [munky] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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@Munky - It's good to hear from a local. Browsing online had left me with the impression that DWS had been clumped in with cliff jumping by the powers that be. I've definitely ogled Summersville pictures for years.

@Angry - Checked out the Lake Powell area on MP, definitely leaked a little haha. It never really occurred to me there'd be options there though it entirely makes sense.
Looks amazing.

Saw some pictures from Bermuda as well, though I can't find much on the Virgin Islands. You aware of anyone who's actually climbed there or books/sites with info? Not that I'm not down to explore, it'd just be nice to have a wee bit of beta before shipping out that far.

@camhead - Lake Whitney looks amazing as well, Texas seems to have an abundance of options. It's looking like I could easily kill a month just doing Washington, Utah/Nevada, and Texas options if I so pleased!


Thanks everyone for taking the time to get back to me. It's still a ways off obviously but I'm already getting the itch.


Bats


Nov 24, 2009, 12:32 PM
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Re: [jookyhead] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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Pace Bend on Lake Travis...I believe the lake's level is still too low for DWS. You might want to do research on this.


minibiter


Nov 24, 2009, 1:04 PM
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Re: [munky] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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munky wrote:
As long as you aren't explicitly jumping off of the cliffs at Summersville you will be fine. I'm a bit biased as I live in Fayetteville, WV and love the NRG so much that i moved here but really man DWS at teh lake on a summer day is amazing and the rock is by far world class and endless. We don't have the inspiring arches like Mallorca but we do have superior grade sandstone that forms horizontals, pockets, brain slopers, splitter cracks, tiered roofs, and everything else between to make for fantastic climbing. I'd go so far to say that the rock is better than Mallorca because of the splitter cracks and dihedral lines that are availabel in addition to the overhanging lines. THE PLACE IS SICK! COME CHECK IT OUT.

Are any of the DWS lines going to be in the new guide?

I'll be headed out there tomorrow to get on the un-named 10c splitter near Pirate's Cove. We call it Indian Summer.


munky


Nov 26, 2009, 3:08 PM
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Re: [minibiter] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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Not sure but I'll ask Mikey next tlime I see him and get back to you. I kinda hope he doesn't include them because I've always liked the idea of just picking out what looks cool and just going for it. The name and grade would kind of take away from the experience in my opinion.


curator


Nov 26, 2009, 4:39 PM
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Re: [munky] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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the new guide will include whipperwill (all the stuff in the cater guide plus about 40 more routes south of the descent gully), and Long Point. 50+ routes across the lake from whipperwill. The only routes listed are those that have been climbed with rope during the low water season. Many of these are soloable when the water is up but the official rule is that DWS is still illegal.


flamer


Nov 27, 2009, 3:47 PM
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Re: [curator] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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There is a sick place near Winslow Arizona.
It's called Mcammond Res. Most folks refer to it as either "clear creek" or "east clear creek" There is info on this site and MP.com.

The rock is exactly like the stuff in Red rock NV.

Super fun...but you probably want a boat. We had inflatable kayaks that worked great.

josh


minibiter


Nov 27, 2009, 9:26 PM
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Re: [munky] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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munky wrote:
Not sure but I'll ask Mikey next tlime I see him and get back to you. I kinda hope he doesn't include them because I've always liked the idea of just picking out what looks cool and just going for it. The name and grade would kind of take away from the experience in my opinion.

Yeah, last time I was out at Whipperwhill I took a walk around and there are some crazy beautiful lines that would make great DWS when the lake is up. They didn't all look hard either... but some did! Looked like there was more rock there than in the entire NRG. Plus when the lake is down you can see exactly where all the bad landings are...


minibiter


Nov 27, 2009, 9:29 PM
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Re: [curator] U.S. DWS [In reply to]
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curator wrote:
the new guide will include whipperwill (all the stuff in the cater guide plus about 40 more routes south of the descent gully), and Long Point. 50+ routes across the lake from whipperwill. The only routes listed are those that have been climbed with rope during the low water season. Many of these are soloable when the water is up but the official rule is that DWS is still illegal.

Wonder how we go about getting it legal... Might the lure of more tourism help?

Can't wait to get that guide


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