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need advice on where to climb this weekend (nor cal)
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climbingnoise


Nov 20, 2009, 9:05 AM
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need advice on where to climb this weekend (nor cal)
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so I am in the east bay

me and friends had been planning to go to bishop for a handful of days in november for awhile now but chance has conspired against us and our time frame is much shorter. Looks like we will only have from, whenever it stops raining til sunday night, and so it seems like we will have to stay on this side of the sierras because of time, hoping its not going to get everything wet over here?

We would be looking to do mostly single pitch sport routes, like 5.8-11c, but mostly in the 5.10 range, within 5 hours of the bay area.

anyone have some good options?


crackmd


Nov 20, 2009, 10:20 AM
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The Table Mountain area around Sonora could fit the bill. There are dozens of routes in that difficulty range that are well-bolted and fun. I go there every chance I get.


Bats


Nov 20, 2009, 11:14 AM
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Castlerock State Park...Great bouldering and sport...


climbingnoise


Nov 20, 2009, 1:43 PM
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is there a guidebook for table mountain? would it be at rei or something

re: castle rock I didnt like the routes I did/saw there except there was this one overhanging jug route that I think someone said was 10b, looked amazing.


climbingnoise


Nov 20, 2009, 1:49 PM
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anyone know anything about the grotto? i heard there is some overhanging stuff would it be good to do tomorrow or sunday, would it be dry?


shimanilami


Nov 20, 2009, 2:50 PM
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Bats wrote:
Castlerock State Park...Great bouldering and sport...

Don't climb Castlerock after rains. Peninsula sandstone breaks when its wet.


shimanilami


Nov 20, 2009, 2:55 PM
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climbingnoise wrote:
anyone know anything about the grotto? i heard there is some overhanging stuff would it be good to do tomorrow or sunday, would it be dry?
The extensions are overhanging, but the bottom will be wet. Also, the extensions are mostly 5.12. And besides that, it will be butt cold in the pit.

The Gold Wall will be in the sun, though. It has about half a dozen quality 5.10's, a few great 5.11's, and stellar 5.12 climbing. All sport. It will probably be a freaking zoo this weekend, though.


climbingnoise


Nov 20, 2009, 4:39 PM
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thanks for the info!


tslater


Nov 21, 2009, 6:29 PM
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All your legal options are in one book (including all the ones mentioned above), a new guidebook called
"California Road Trip Climber's Guide Northern California".
Maps, topos, routes, photos.
Cheapest is Barnes and Noble.com for $36
over 100 crags north of Kern to Oregon, over 2,000 routes.
Pick one
:)


dugl33


Nov 21, 2009, 6:42 PM
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Pinnacles National Monument. Within 2.5 - 3 hours max?

Recommend the east side for a first Pinns run.


dugl33


Nov 21, 2009, 6:46 PM
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climbingnoise wrote:
is there a guidebook for table mountain? would it be at rei or something

re: castle rock I didnt like the routes I did/saw there except there was this one overhanging jug route that I think someone said was 10b, looked amazing.

See "A climbers guide to the sonora pass highway". By Brad Young


Kyle10376


Nov 24, 2009, 4:09 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] need advice on where to climb this weekend (nor cal) [In reply to]
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ok, rule of thumb, castle rock is the crap hole of climbing in the bay area. For bouldering, hear to mortor rock, its got a lot of good routes and its easy approach. Gold wall is pretty sweet for like 7 to 12 bolt sport routes, but there is no topo so get grotto directions then talk to some people and get directions. They are really close together but gold wall is apparently in private property so no guides. if you go to gold wall. Hit Columbia college bouldering area, its 30 min. away and super clssic v6's and v7's. good luck and happy climbing.


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