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(yet) another anchor question
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cush


Nov 26, 2009, 7:28 PM
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(yet) another anchor question
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my question applies specifically to the trashcan overhang at the gunks. there is ample gear for a top rope anchor at the top of the roof but it would have the rope rubbing, at all times, over sharp edges. if i were to build a bomber anchor at the top, put two biners at the focal point for redundancy, and extend using 2 slings to the edge of the roof would it still be safe. i've looked at it and analyzed it but my anchor building knowledge is still only rudimentary. i've included a picture to try and explain my meaning.



jcrew


Nov 26, 2009, 7:32 PM
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Re: [cush] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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cush wrote:
my question applies specifically to the trashcan overhang at the gunks. there is ample gear for a top rope anchor at the top of the roof but it would have the rope rubbing, at all times, over sharp edges. if i were to build a bomber anchor at the top, put two biners at the focal point for redundancy, and extend using 2 slings to the edge of the roof would it still be safe. i've looked at it and analyzed it but my anchor building knowledge is still only rudimentary. i've included a picture to try and explain my meaning.
[image]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2884/anchorquestion.jpg[/image]


seems like a pretty standard tactic to extend a toprope setup, assuming that the biners represented by the upper blue dot in your diagram don't tweak over some wierd edge or protrusion.


xtremst80


Nov 26, 2009, 8:22 PM
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Re: [jcrew] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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jcrew wrote:
cush wrote:
my question applies specifically to the trashcan overhang at the gunks. there is ample gear for a top rope anchor at the top of the roof but it would have the rope rubbing, at all times, over sharp edges. if i were to build a bomber anchor at the top, put two biners at the focal point for redundancy, and extend using 2 slings to the edge of the roof would it still be safe. i've looked at it and analyzed it but my anchor building knowledge is still only rudimentary. i've included a picture to try and explain my meaning.
[image]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2884/anchorquestion.jpg[/image]


seems like a pretty standard tactic to extend a toprope setup, assuming that the biners represented by the upper blue dot in your diagram don't tweak over some wierd edge or protrusion.
+1


rockforlife


Nov 26, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Re: [cush] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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cush wrote:
my question applies specifically to the trashcan overhang at the gunks. there is ample gear for a top rope anchor at the top of the roof but it would have the rope rubbing, at all times, over sharp edges. if i were to build a bomber anchor at the top, put two biners at the focal point for redundancy, and extend using 2 slings to the edge of the roof would it still be safe. i've looked at it and analyzed it but my anchor building knowledge is still only rudimentary. i've included a picture to try and explain my meaning.
[image]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2884/anchorquestion.jpg[/image]


Would said slings not just run over the same sharp edges? if so i would also bring a small peace of carpet.


agdavis


Nov 26, 2009, 10:27 PM
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Re: [cush] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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I make anchors like this almost every time I climb.


lostlazy


Nov 27, 2009, 5:08 AM
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Re: [rockforlife] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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rockforlife wrote:
cush wrote:
my question applies specifically to the trashcan overhang at the gunks. there is ample gear for a top rope anchor at the top of the roof but it would have the rope rubbing, at all times, over sharp edges. if i were to build a bomber anchor at the top, put two biners at the focal point for redundancy, and extend using 2 slings to the edge of the roof would it still be safe. i've looked at it and analyzed it but my anchor building knowledge is still only rudimentary. i've included a picture to try and explain my meaning.
[image]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2884/anchorquestion.jpg[/image]


Would said slings not just run over the same sharp edges? if so i would also bring a small peace of carpet.

+1

Carpet with some acc. cord prusiked to one of the anchor legs and you should be good.


jaablink


Nov 27, 2009, 6:10 AM
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Re: [cush] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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You can get some tubular webbing and
I have been doing this for years and it is very effective

http://www.apirion.com/chap11.htm

(This post was edited by jaablink on Nov 27, 2009, 6:17 AM)
Attachments: Untitled-1 copy.jpg (44.2 KB)


Partner rgold


Nov 27, 2009, 7:25 AM
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Re: [jaablink] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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In principle what you've described is fine, and I don't recall there being any really sharp edges up there.

Here's what you have to worry about in general with this. If the rope runs over an edge, different portions are rubbing at different times because the rope is moving. If you hang a sling over the edge, the same part of the sling is always on the edge. A back-and-forth motion that would have little effect on a running rope could have a much more serious effect on a stationary sling, and slings are orders of magnitude more susceptible to cutting, especially when under tension, then a rope is.

So padding the sling, as folks have mentioned, could be a critical safety step. If you do a lot of top-roping, it might be worth investing an a length of 11mm static cord, which you can use either for rigging or for extending some other system. Such a rope will be far more resistant to sharp edges than webbing, but of course it should still be padded.


jaablink


Nov 27, 2009, 8:14 AM
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Re: [rgold] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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That tubular webbing trick is not in any way limited to that jpeg.. You must always be constructive, and adaptive to the situation at hand to achieve the best results for the situation you are in. Also when top rope anchoring specific, I usually use my retired lines. Especially top managed sites. I know of climbers who will thread 50 foot lengths of retired rope through webbing and use this as anchor building material , now that’s the strength of the webbing and the rope combined.. It gives a new meaning to word redundant as far as I am concerned. But that is their profession and it keeps the equipment safe and it last a lot longer…


dagibbs


Nov 27, 2009, 9:32 AM
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Re: [rockforlife] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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rockforlife wrote:
cush wrote:
my question applies specifically to the trashcan overhang at the gunks. there is ample gear for a top rope anchor at the top of the roof but it would have the rope rubbing, at all times, over sharp edges. if i were to build a bomber anchor at the top, put two biners at the focal point for redundancy, and extend using 2 slings to the edge of the roof would it still be safe. i've looked at it and analyzed it but my anchor building knowledge is still only rudimentary. i've included a picture to try and explain my meaning.
[image]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2884/anchorquestion.jpg[/image]


Would said slings not just run over the same sharp edges? if so i would also bring a small peace of carpet.

Yes, but the slings aren't moving. The rope will be sliding over the edge as rope is taken/given, people lowered, etc. The slings are, essentially, resting statically on the edge -- not nearly as much damage.


blueeyedclimber


Nov 27, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Re: [cush] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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Use static cord to extend over the edge and pad it.

These work awesome. http://spirolls.com/homeclimb.html

Josh


rockforlife


Nov 27, 2009, 10:58 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
rockforlife wrote:
cush wrote:
my question applies specifically to the trashcan overhang at the gunks. there is ample gear for a top rope anchor at the top of the roof but it would have the rope rubbing, at all times, over sharp edges. if i were to build a bomber anchor at the top, put two biners at the focal point for redundancy, and extend using 2 slings to the edge of the roof would it still be safe. i've looked at it and analyzed it but my anchor building knowledge is still only rudimentary. i've included a picture to try and explain my meaning.
[image]http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2884/anchorquestion.jpg[/image]


Would said slings not just run over the same sharp edges? if so i would also bring a small peace of carpet.

Yes, but the slings aren't moving. The rope will be sliding over the edge as rope is taken/given, people lowered, etc. The slings are, essentially, resting statically on the edge -- not nearly as much damage.

Yes but it takes way less damage to cut through a sling then it does a rope. And to repeat what has already been said the rope is moving so its not being rubbed in the same spot, as the slings would be.

Its not that hard to use carpet or webbing or some sort of rope condom


qtm


Nov 30, 2009, 8:44 AM
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Re: [cush] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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Surely you're not thinking of hanging the slings so the TR anchor is below the roof? That would defeat the purpose of the problem.

I extend the anchor with slings if needed. If the edge is sharp, I'll pad it with my rope bag. Remember that while cord and webbing is "static", it does stretch, and thus you will have some movement of the anchor across the edge. Don't want to pad the edge with the rope bag directly under the rope though, the rope will melt the rope bag.

I don't think you need to do so on Trashcan Overhang, we just run webbing up to the tree and maybe a directional to the left. There's not much sawing of the rope on the roof edge- if you come off before the roof you pretty much have to lower, and if you fall at the roof, you're not going to be swinging too far.


rangerrob


Dec 2, 2009, 1:14 PM
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Re: [qtm] (yet) another anchor question [In reply to]
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Just boulder it. What's it..like 15 or 16' off the ground? There's a totally flat landing too. Unless I am mistaken, I believe the first ascent was a solo/boulder problem.


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