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gblauer
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Dec 1, 2009, 8:12 AM
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Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer
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I have had two surgeries in the last three weeks to correct big toe joints in both feet. I cannot climb for 12 weeks (I went to the rock gym after the first surgery, it wasn't pretty) and I have signed up with a personal trainer for the next 12 weeks. Prior to the surgery, I was climbing 3-5 days per week and really felt like I was "in shape" and feeling strong.

So far I have had 4 sessions and I am amazed at how weak I feel. I think the surgeries may be taking more out of me than I expected. But, I am so winded, sore, nauseous during and after our sessions. I really hate going! I am surprised at how many muscles I don't use while climbing. He is really working my whole body and while I have some strengths (forearms for one...) I have a lot of weaknesses (triceps...).

My goal is to return to climbing with improved core and lower body strength. I am hoping that I maintain upper body strength and maybe even improve.

Has anyone used a personal trainer before? Did you get value out of it? Will my sessions improve (less nauseous, more endurance, more fun)?

I am seeing this as a means to an end, I want to be in Potrero in March and I don't want to be a "passenger".


(This post was edited by gblauer on Dec 1, 2009, 8:13 AM)


troutboy


Dec 1, 2009, 9:22 AM
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Re: [gblauer] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
...and I have signed up with a personal trainer for the next 12 weeks. Prior to the surgery, I was climbing 3-5 days per week and really felt like I was "in shape" and feeling strong.

So far I have had 4 sessions and I am amazed at how weak I feel. I think the surgeries may be taking more out of me than I expected. But, I am so winded, sore, nauseous during and after our sessions. I really hate going! I am surprised at how many muscles I don't use while climbing. He is really working my whole body and while I have some strengths (forearms for one...) I have a lot of weaknesses (triceps...).".

More likely that climbing without cross training has made you a good climber without strengthening the rest of the body. I expect your PT is putting you through the wringer, probably because you are pretty fit and strong and he figures you can do it. He is now making you use all those muscles you don't use climbing.

It will get better very soon and you will be better off after.


gblauer wrote:
Has anyone used a personal trainer before? Did you get value out of it? Will my sessions improve (less nauseous, more endurance, more fun)?

I am seeing this as a means to an end, I want to be in Potrero in March and I don't want to be a "passenger".

I think using a PT is a wise choice for many people, especially when you find a good one. He/she will get you to realize what your body can do (how far to push) and will show you exercises/techniques you can use to remain in good shape and how to do them properly, essential for getting the maximum benefit and preventing injury.

The older you get, the more important it is to cross train (not to suggest it isn't important for the youngsters though). If us old farts want to keep climbing at high levels, we really need the cross training and antagonistic muscle workouts that lifting, yoga, etc can provide.

Have fun in Potrero...

TS


cloud9climber


Dec 1, 2009, 10:55 AM
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Re: [gblauer] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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I've been using a PT since June to get back into shape after having a baby. I've been doing crossfit training and it is really helping me to get back my core strength. If you google "crossfit" you'll get an idea of the work out. It's pretty hard but I'm enjoying it and getting my body back. GL! Sorry about your foot!


lvpyne


Dec 2, 2009, 10:04 AM
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Re: [gblauer] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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About a year ago, I had a series of irritating injuries that really impacted my climbing (torn bicep, broken toes, stitches, bruised ribs, re-broke the toes trying to crack climb too soon after the original broken toes, etc.). I was really frustrated with feeling like every injury just set me back further and further and the more time I took off, the "worse" my climbing would get. (Which is a ridiculous philosophy.) I finally decided to stop pushing "climbing specific" training (since I was just re-injuring myself) and just did stuff that wouldn't aggravate the injuries.

I ended up trading my 5-6 climbing days a week for mountain biking (which I love) and yoga (which I hate.) I found that coming back into climbing came really, really quickly -- within a month or so of being "injury free" I could start to climb where I had been prior to my (what felt like weekly) jaunts to Urgent Care. I actually found myself finishing some really committing leads, since mountain biking and "picking a line" can be great mental training. A total climbing "bonus" that I hadn't anticipated coming from taking time off from climbing.

So, although I don't have any specific experience with a personal trainer, I found that climbing comes back much easier and faster than I was expecting after injuries. Have fun in Potrero!


troutboy


Dec 2, 2009, 1:29 PM
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Re: [lvpyne] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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lvpyne wrote:
About a year ago, I had a series of irritating injuries that really impacted my climbing (torn bicep, broken toes, stitches, bruised ribs, re-broke the toes trying to crack climb too soon after the original broken toes, etc.).

You know you're either:

1) Getting old
2) Uncoordinated
3) Playing/training too hard
4) Really unlucky

When the receptionist at urgent care knows you so well they send you Christmas Cards Wink.

I'll assume you were dealing with #3 or #4. For me, I'm afraid it's #1.

TS


aerili


Dec 2, 2009, 3:18 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
Has anyone used a personal trainer before? Did you get value out of it? Will my sessions improve (less nauseous, more endurance, more fun)?

I am seeing this as a means to an end, I want to be in Potrero in March and I don't want to be a "passenger".

I am a personal trainer.

If you do not benefit from your sessions, you do not have a good trainer. You should improve during your sessions; of course, this all depends on how you are measuring this.

Maintaining a high level of general fitness will make the return to ANY sport (in case people don't realize, that includes >climbing!<) much faster. It is hard to work the very specific strength required in climbing in a regular gym, but regardless, it doesn't matter as you will come back faster than if you did nothing to maintain general fitness. Keep it up!


(This post was edited by aerili on Dec 2, 2009, 3:19 PM)


lvpyne


Dec 2, 2009, 7:51 PM
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Re: [troutboy] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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troutboy wrote:
I'll assume you were dealing with #3 or #4. For me, I'm afraid it's #1.

Yeeeees. It was not a pleasant couple of months. A climbing partner suggested that I take up Extreme Crocheting to try to get a chance to recover. Smile


mheyman


Dec 23, 2009, 1:51 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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Cross training for me is essential to climbing well

Include:
* areobic activity
* flexibility
* antgonistic muslces
* for me and adding some bulk to minimze tendon irritation - critcal to my shoulders.

I do this on my own. How do you identify a good trainer?

And - hope things heal quickily for you.

Mark


(This post was edited by mheyman on Dec 23, 2009, 8:15 PM)


gblauer
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Feb 20, 2010, 9:17 AM
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Re: [mheyman] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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THought I would give an update of my situation.

My feet are still terrible and I am only wearing clogs at this point. I don't know when I will be able to climb.

The good news is that I have been going faithfully to the personal trainer and when I am out of town I am adhering to his training regimen at the hotels.

I am getting much stronger. I am no longer winded or feel nauseated during our sessions. I can keep up. I typically start with 30-40 minutes of cardio (eliptical trainer) and then I work with my trainer for 1 hour.

I am now able to do 4 sets of 8 pull ups, wiithout assistance until I get to the 8th in each set. My legs are soooo much stronger (they were unnaturally weak) and my core is stronger. I actually look forward to our sessions. I am truly wondering what the impact of all of this strength training will have on my climbing. I know I am stronger, but will it translate into anything on the wall? Will I be better on the overhangs etc? I am eager to find out, but, that will have to wait until I can bear weight on my big toes.


clausti


Feb 22, 2010, 6:38 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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better core and stronger legs will *definitely* translate to better performance on overhangs- more and better ability to keep your feet on!

glad to hear that you're steadily improving. keep it up and you'll be kicking butt when you get back on the rock for sure.


aerili


Feb 23, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Stoked to hear it, gb!


mitchal


Feb 23, 2010, 8:53 PM
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You will be back better than EVER! Your dedication to training and the seriousness of your will to climb harder WILL NOT let you give anything less than 100% to regain it all.
ILGBWink


troutboy


Feb 24, 2010, 6:06 AM
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Re: [mitchal] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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mitchal wrote:
You will be back better than EVER! Your dedication to training and the seriousness of your will to climb harder WILL NOT let you give anything less than 100% to regain it all.
ILGBWink

Suck up Wink.

You guys coming to the Banff showing this year ? We have tickets for both nights.

Tim


(This post was edited by troutboy on Feb 24, 2010, 6:06 AM)


mitchal


Feb 24, 2010, 9:48 AM
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I am sure we will be there at least one night. We usually help out with the PRG group. Hope o run into you then


acacongua


Feb 24, 2010, 2:04 PM
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4 sets of 8 unassisted pull-ups is more than even some 5.13 climbers can do! Woowoo!


mitchal


Feb 24, 2010, 3:55 PM
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More than I can do. Even if they are ALL assisted,


shorty


Jul 2, 2010, 9:41 AM
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gblauer wrote:
Has anyone used a personal trainer before? Did you get value out of it? Will my sessions improve (less nauseous, more endurance, more fun)?
I used a personal trainer for roughly 3 years, with the goal of improving both my ski racing (primary) and climbing (secondary). It worked well with skiing, as I improved from regional to national ranking. I don't compete in climbing and I wasn't really pushing for higher grades at that time, however my strength and endurance improved, making it easier to develop new routes.

A good trainer will help you achieve a new level of fitness. How quickly you improve will be based more on your efforts than anything else. Think of your trainer as a motivational coach. I had a good one -- his background includes getting the Marines who did not pass boot camp physical requirements in shape for a second attempt.

I am currently in rehab from arthroscopic knee surgery, the result of a ski racing injury which came very close to giving me a permanent dirt nap. My surgeon has repaired US Ski Team knees and my physical therapist has helped the people get back on the snow. I'm 15 weeks out from surgery and supposedly 2 weeks ahead of the projected recovery schedule. I can guarantee my status on the recovery curve is due to countless hours of (often $@&# boring and painful) exercises. Surgery sucks, fighting it afterward is what it takes.

I pushed hard enough with my personal trainer that sessions generally were not "fun". My trainer considered it a successful session if I said we need to back off, walk a lap, and let the tunnel vision clear up. In other words, I was close to passing out. This happened around once a month, and I did weekly sessions. I also worked out on my own once or twice per week, with skiing or climbing on the weekends.

Once the knee is past my rehab physical therapy, I will look up my personal trainer in order to regain my prior fitness level.


Partner macherry


Jul 2, 2010, 11:33 AM
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Re: [shorty] Staying in climbing shape with a personal trainer [In reply to]
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shorty wrote:
gblauer wrote:
Has anyone used a personal trainer before? Did you get value out of it? Will my sessions improve (less nauseous, more endurance, more fun)?
I used a personal trainer for roughly 3 years, with the goal of improving both my ski racing (primary) and climbing (secondary). It worked well with skiing, as I improved from regional to national ranking. I don't compete in climbing and I wasn't really pushing for higher grades at that time, however my strength and endurance improved, making it easier to develop new routes.

A good trainer will help you achieve a new level of fitness. How quickly you improve will be based more on your efforts than anything else. Think of your trainer as a motivational coach. I had a good one -- his background includes getting the Marines who did not pass boot camp physical requirements in shape for a second attempt.

I am currently in rehab from arthroscopic knee surgery, the result of a ski racing injury which came very close to giving me a permanent dirt nap. My surgeon has repaired US Ski Team knees and my physical therapist has helped the people get back on the snow. I'm 15 weeks out from surgery and supposedly 2 weeks ahead of the projected recovery schedule. I can guarantee my status on the recovery curve is due to countless hours of (often $@&# boring and painful) exercises. Surgery sucks, fighting it afterward is what it takes.

I pushed hard enough with my personal trainer that sessions generally were not "fun". My trainer considered it a successful session if I said we need to back off, walk a lap, and let the tunnel vision clear up. In other words, I was close to passing out. This happened around once a month, and I did weekly sessions. I also worked out on my own once or twice per week, with skiing or climbing on the weekends.

Once the knee is past my rehab physical therapy, I will look up my personal trainer in order to regain my prior fitness level.

here's to speedy recovery shorty!!!!!!


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