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5.14 trad at 52 years old
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guangzhou


Dec 3, 2009, 6:42 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

5.14 trad at 52 years old
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52 Years old and climbing 5.14 crack. Guess I need to train more.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50641


yokese


Dec 3, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] 5.14 trad at 52 years old [In reply to]
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Shocked

Onsighting 5.14 trad... well flashing it, fair enough.
But it's Steve, that man is a beast. Truly one of the best rounded climbers alive. He was in the forefront of the drytooling scene not long ago. More recently, he's redpointed 9a (5.14d). Now Greenspit, and he claims "[it is] nothing really that tricky"...

Allow me one more shocked smiley: Shocked


(This post was edited by yokese on Dec 3, 2009, 10:11 AM)


Partner camhead


Dec 3, 2009, 5:29 PM
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Re: [yokese] 5.14 trad at 52 years old [In reply to]
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Yeah, this should really get into the "news" section on the front page. In numerical/grade terms, this one of the hardest gear routes ever done first go, although Haston himself admits that he's done routes that were much more challenging to him and that this just fit his style. Haston is a badass, some of his unrepeated lines at Indian Creek are intimidating to look at– unprotected, bold, soft sandstone face climbing to finger cracks.

The articles I have read (UK climbing and Climbing Magazine), however, both kind of don't put Didier in the best light, implying that he overgraded Greenspit on the FA. It should be remembered that when he put it up, he clearly stated that "if this were in American, it would be 5.13," but that he was grading it to be consistent with European grades.


areyoumydude


Dec 3, 2009, 5:40 PM
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Re: [camhead] 5.14 trad at 52 years old [In reply to]
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The Mad Cow strikes again.




coolcat83


Dec 3, 2009, 6:05 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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Re: [guangzhou] 5.14 trad at 52 years old [In reply to]
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I like his last line "I have 144 Friends and none of them are human. Be good to put them to good use."


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