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History behind these model bolts
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majid_sabet


Dec 3, 2009, 7:21 PM
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History behind these model bolts
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I got these two bolts from a friend of mine on my last trip and he wanted me to find out if anyone had seen anything like them. These model bolt are currently been produced overseas by a small company and they are popular among big wall climbers and cavers over there cause, they do not have the luxury of buying expensive model bolts locally due to financial reasons . Unfortunately and based on their research, no one has ever done any test on these bolts and little or no data is available to the local climbers on how strong they are.

In addition, the local climbers believe that these bolts could be responsible for an accident ( fatality)where an anchor failed during a sever shock load so I was asked to take a pair back to the mighty USA for the lord of gear destruction in RC so he do a pull test .

These bolts are made of medium grade steel (not SS). the shank diameter is about 8 mm (1/4+-). hole is big enough to accept a regular size biner.someone told me that he thinks he seen similar types way back then among cavers but that's before I was born so tell me what you know . They could be copy of a European model bolt or whatever.

Aric; pm me your address so I could send you your xmass present.

Thanks







yodadave


Dec 4, 2009, 6:51 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] History behind these model bolts [In reply to]
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whats the story on the sheared off one?

surely if you have one that has sheared under "normal" use then you have your answer about whether they are strong enough.


majid_sabet


Dec 4, 2009, 10:26 AM
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Re: [yodadave] History behind these model bolts [In reply to]
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yodadave wrote:
whats the story on the sheared off one?

surely if you have one that has sheared under "normal" use then you have your answer about whether they are strong enough.

I did not get a chance to dig in to the broken one but still, like to see a test result and find at what they are rated for.


qwert


Dec 5, 2009, 8:27 AM
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they do look kinda similar to those, but they lack the mechanical part.

Unfortunately i dont remember the maker(s) or name(s), but similar bolts where once popular here, and i really dont want to know how many of those are still sticking in the rock somewhere, looking way better than they are.

I think the DAV did a test (also after an accident i think) on some bolts that had a similar short shaft, and the results where as bad as expected.

qwert


grover


Dec 5, 2009, 10:18 AM
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The Yellow edge on Yam in the Canadian rockies has loads of em still, from 1974!!!!

A friend gave me a new cassin pin-bolt similar to the one above.

The stud length is only 12mm long!!!!!

oh and the stud is tapered as well, not straight like the one above.

edited: wrong route...fixed now...doh!


(This post was edited by grover on Dec 5, 2009, 10:24 AM)


sbaclimber


Dec 9, 2009, 7:56 AM
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Re: [qwert] History behind these model bolts [In reply to]
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qwert wrote:
I think the DAV did a test (also after an accident i think) on some bolts that had a similar short shaft, and the results where as bad as expected.
You're right, pic on page 2.
Unfortunately, there isn't any specific data regarding failure.


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