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jkelley
May 11, 2001, 6:18 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2001
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I seem to get conflicting advice on belaying at the anchor, On the one hand I am told to follow the ABC rule, anchor, belayer, climber. Belayer is to be between the anchor (tied off of course)
and the climber so as not to be pulled off your stance if catching a fall. On the other I have been advised to run the belay through the anchor so the anchor will absorb much of the impact and not all will hit directly on you belay device.
Also the ABC rule is supposed to apply whether you are belaying the second below you or the leader casting off on the next pitch above you.
How difficult is it to actually achieve that?
I realize a directional should be set
Any thoughts? thanks
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ozclimber
May 11, 2001, 7:07 AM
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Registered: May 4, 2001
Posts: 40
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G\'day Jon, my thoughts are that you should always belay directly off your anchors and have yourself not conected to your belay device at all. Any falls will then load completely onto your anchors and no weight will be on you. The reason for this is in case of a problem such as a rescue needing to be done. If you are in the belay system it can be hard to then remove yourself and rescue the climber when fully weighted. If all the weight is straight onto your anchor you can easily tie off the climber and then move around to do what ever might be needed. Make sure you have diretional anchors and that you are also safely connected to the anchors and have safe + fun climbing trips.
Jon Kelley wrote:
>I seem to get conflicting advice on belaying at the anchor, On the one hand I am told to follow the ABC rule, anchor, belayer, climber. Belayer is to be between the anchor (tied off of course)
>and the climber so as not to be pulled off your stance if catching a fall. On the other I have been advised to run the belay through the anchor so the anchor will absorb much of the impact and not all will hit directly on you belay device.
>Also the ABC rule is supposed to apply whether you are belaying the second below you or the leader casting off on the next pitch above you.
>How difficult is it to actually achieve that?
>I realize a directional should be set
>Any thoughts? thanks
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eshi-1
Deleted
May 11, 2001, 8:02 PM
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Dear Jon,
There\'s no yes and no about it. It all depends on the situation you\'re in.
Are you belying a leader ? Toprope climber ?
Are you on the ground ? On hanging belay of the 5th pitch ?
The Belay system you choose should fit the ocation.
Email me for more than that.
Eshed
Jon Kelley wrote:
>I seem to get conflicting advice on belaying at the anchor, On the one hand I am told to follow the ABC rule, anchor, belayer, climber. Belayer is to be between the anchor (tied off of course)
>and the climber so as not to be pulled off your stance if catching a fall. On the other I have been advised to run the belay through the anchor so the anchor will absorb much of the impact and not all will hit directly on you belay device.
>Also the ABC rule is supposed to apply whether you are belaying the second below you or the leader casting off on the next pitch above you.
>How difficult is it to actually achieve that?
>I realize a directional should be set
>Any thoughts? thanks
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eshi-1
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Jun 3, 2001, 6:09 AM
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So sorry, I wasn't realy trying to be shy, I just don't realy get up here so often, so if you don't want to wait for my reply forever, it will be easier to email me.
BUT, you're more than welcome to ask about a specific situation.
AND - Climb hard or go home...
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