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garrettweaver
Dec 10, 2009, 3:18 AM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
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Hey all,
Planning a trip to climb Lurking Fear on the Captain this spring. Wondering if April or May would be better for this south west facing wall. If anyone has first hand experience on this climb and can give some weather beta it would be greatly appriecated.
Thank you,
Garrett
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skiclimb
Dec 10, 2009, 3:21 AM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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may is best
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scottydo
Dec 10, 2009, 6:40 AM
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haven't done any walls in the valley yet, but from what I understand from others it's really more that there will most likely be a less rain in May than in April. The location of that route won't really make a difference with regards to weather. (except that you will want good weather when you do it)
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guangzhou
Dec 11, 2009, 12:55 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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garrettweaver wrote: Hey all, Planning a trip to climb Lurking Fear on the Captain this spring. Wondering if April or May would be better for this south west facing wall. If anyone has first hand experience on this climb and can give some weather beta it would be greatly appriecated. Thank you, Garrett
My partner and I did is in June and we were fine. We carried all the gear and supplies to the base, then returned to camp 4 for a good night sleep and more water. Fixed to pitch three.
The next morning, we got a late start and ate breakfast in the cafeteria.
Overall, it's an excellent route. I'd like to go back and free it one summer. I'd have to camp in the valley all summer and work it, but I think it's very doable for me. Except the second pitch.
Cheers
Eman
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garrettweaver
Dec 11, 2009, 3:50 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
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Hey all,
Thanks you all the replies. I heard the approach is a bit of work for this climb compared to others on the captain. Does anyone know first hand how much of a bitch the approach is and approx. how much time it takes.
Garrett
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scottydo
Dec 13, 2009, 12:01 AM
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The Supertopo guidebook says that it takes about 20-30 minutes from the toe of the main buttress. (so about 45 minutes from the road i'm assuming)
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guangzhou
Dec 15, 2009, 12:18 AM
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garrettweaver wrote: Hey all, Thanks you all the replies. I heard the approach is a bit of work for this climb compared to others on the captain. Does anyone know first hand how much of a bitch the approach is and approx. how much time it takes. Garrett
It's along approach. We took our time and spoke to other parties along the way. My advice, do the approach and deliver everything a day ahead. If you have time. At least one hour with the pig.
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shimanilami
Dec 16, 2009, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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I've done it a couple of times. I will never do it again. The approach takes at least an hour. The hauling sucks pretty much throughout the entire climb. The climbing is fun, but really easy, especially if you already have any appreciable wall experience.
The only way to go is to do it in a day, with no pig, which is how I did it the second time.
I realize that it is the easiest route on El Cap, but I'd suggest something different. If you're looking for something short and not-too-hard, the Zodiac cannot be beat. Killer climbing up incredible features. Steep throughout. Great top-out. Classic.
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guangzhou
Jan 22, 2010, 5:53 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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It would be agreat El-cap route to free, that's for sure. Beautiful. I agree, doing it in a day would be good.
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