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Offset aliens for trad climbing
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csproul


Dec 11, 2009, 11:33 AM
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Offset aliens for trad climbing
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I own and use standard Aliens for trad climbing and love them. It looks like I can get a set of offsets at a good price and would like to have them for aid climbing anyway. How many out there use offsets for day to day trad protection? Or do most of you keep them around just for aiding?


trenchdigger


Dec 11, 2009, 11:40 AM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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Day-to-day use? Not so much. They're a specialty piece that fits where other stuff doesn't. I'll bring them on R-rated stuff at Tahquitz and JTree, or on routes that have flaring or pin scarred, difficult to to protect cracks. Unless you like that kind of stuff, they probably won't get a whole lot of use.


kachoong


Dec 11, 2009, 12:20 PM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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The offsets mainly are a crag-specific piece. I've used them on certain volcanic rocks, such as trachyte, where cracks can be flared. Also good in old pin scars in granite and some sandstones.

If you can get them at a decent price, they'd be good to have, but you wouldn't always need them on your rack. If I were you I'd go for the smaller sizes... maybe up to yellow/red. I also find that the offset TCU's are just as good and in most cases cheaper.


shimanilami


Dec 11, 2009, 12:38 PM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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I don't usually carry them, but if I'm doing a route that is appropriate (thin, pin scarred, granite) I will carry the blue-green and/or green-yellow.

I can't recall any time I've whipped on an offset alien, however, which is odd now that I think about it.

At any rate, if you can get them for a good price and if you'll ever be doing some aid, then you should go for it.


cragmasterp


Dec 11, 2009, 12:44 PM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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you'll love em for some of those flaired eybrows etc. that you find at Looking Glass and other NC granite.


sspssp


Dec 11, 2009, 1:53 PM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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There are a number of free routes in Yosemite that are pin scarred enough, that I will carry offset Aliens.

Outside of aid climbing and a few free routes in Yosemite, I can't think of any time that I've used them day to day.

On occasion I've added a specific offset to my rack for a redpoint attempt.


breaksteel


Dec 11, 2009, 1:54 PM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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I got them thinking I'd use them all the time. Turns out they work great in the flares and pin scars but I always found normal placements within reaching distance. I stopped climbing trad with them due to weight, and being able to protect in other locations with gear I already have. They are indispensable when climbing aid in my opinion.


irregularpanda


Dec 11, 2009, 3:45 PM
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Re: [trenchdigger] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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trenchdigger wrote:
Day-to-day use? Not so much. They're a specialty piece that fits where other stuff doesn't. I'll bring them on R-rated stuff at Tahquitz and JTree, or on routes that have flaring or pin scarred, difficult to to protect cracks. Unless you like that kind of stuff, they probably won't get a whole lot of use.[/quote

I know this is just adding to the mountain of evidence that they are specialized pieces, but I agree. You'd only really use them at places with flares, J-tree for sure. City of rocks would fit that bill also.

I'd get them if you were planning on being a serious aid climber.


billcoe_


Dec 12, 2009, 8:55 AM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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JUST GET THEM, YOU WONT REGRET IT.

Sheese, am I the only dude who just buys gear...just because?

I use to think they were a specialty piece, but I've actually found that if I carry them, there is always placements for them. The same applies to the Metolius offset 3 cam units.


claramie


Dec 12, 2009, 10:03 AM
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Re:Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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agreed, buy a set if you are thinking about it. just like everyone said you won't use them everywhere but they are absolutely critical in the right place... think of routes that were established back in the day on pins and flaring granite. those things eat up pin scars and flares!

Yosemite, Zion, Cochamo and (I bet) plenty of aid in other places would benefit from offsets. Then again, metolius is now making offset TCUs and Master Cams, which aren't as great as aliens in my opinion, but there are other offset options.

I think that yellow / red and green / yellow are the two most useful sizes. The blue / green one works well too but I never placed it much.

CL

(This post was edited by claramie on Dec 12, 2009, 10:04 AM)


BirminghamBen


Dec 29, 2009, 8:16 AM
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Re: [cragmasterp] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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cragmasterp wrote:
you'll love em for some of those flaired eybrows etc. that you find at Looking Glass and other NC granite.

What he said. I see you are in NC. Take em to LK once and you'll affirm their value. My NC rack has all manner of offset dodads.


cchas


Dec 30, 2009, 12:59 PM
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Re: [BirminghamBen] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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If you are going to buy if because you are a gear whore, go for it, but get used day in and day out.... I bought a set about 9 years ago, have used them three times and then gave them away this year. I can often get my BD C3's into spots you would once reserve for only offsets.


moose_droppings


Dec 30, 2009, 2:23 PM
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Re: [csproul] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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i use the Metolius offset cams regularly since there is a lot of flared stuff around here. Never been a big fan of Aliens, but if you can get them for a good price, go for it, sooner or later you'll find a place that will need them.


scottydo


Dec 31, 2009, 2:09 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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how are the metolius offsets faring for you? There were some nay sayers about them since their metal is harder than that used for aliens and thus less bite.


moose_droppings


Dec 31, 2009, 8:30 PM
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Re: [scottydo] Offset aliens for trad climbing [In reply to]
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They're really good for our hard, course granite with flaring cracks, which is one of my reasons I prefer them. One of my old partners would need to send in one of his Aliens now and them to replace the lobes, got to be a pain after a while so I never did warm up to them back then. They've got some good qualities but I've always managed to get by without them on my rack.


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