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Alpine Short Rope Question
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Lazlo


Dec 12, 2009, 1:45 PM
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Alpine Short Rope Question
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Okay, so I need a short rope...

I have a few options in mind:

1: Buy a 30m 8mm short rope for $80.00
2: Carry and use my 60m 8.2mm Dragonfly twin rope for free (old partner has the other half)
3: Cut my Dragonfly into two un-even sections of 20m and 40m


For background; I want to be climbing class four and five alpine routes...and will be starting into glacier climbing this year.

Further question; is my 8.2 60m too thin for glacier? And if I'm climbing in just a two man team on a glacier, is 30 meter or 40 meter enough?


robpatterson5


Dec 12, 2009, 3:14 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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I had good luck with a 60m PMI 8.1 in the Rockies for summer routes and ski touring. A shorter rope would have been nice for some routes.
Why don't you use the 60m you have and cut it down if you find thats what you want. Hard to say otherwise not knowing about rap length, need to rap, pitches, ect.


reno


Dec 12, 2009, 9:14 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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Why cut the Dragonfly?

One person ties in to the half way point, using a bowline on a bight, other person ties in to both ends (with whatever knot he wishes... Figure 8, etc.)

That said, if you REALLY have a specific need for a short rope, cut the Dragonfly into 40m and two 10m sections. Use the 10m sections for anchors, etc.

Assuming you're doing this for glacier travel, the only downside is that you'll have to get some 5.5 or 6mm cord for prusik knots, etc. My experience is that 7mm cord doesn't work well when used to prusik a rope smaller than 9mm. YMMV.


robpatterson5


Dec 13, 2009, 12:29 AM
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Re: [reno] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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6mm Mammut ProCord works well for this. Tech cord should be avoided for prussics as it weakens quickly with multiple bending cycles.


clc


Dec 25, 2009, 9:20 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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First . the 8.2mm Dragonfly is NOT a twin rope. It is a half rope used for double rope technique. Most ropes over 8mm are half ropes. Its odd you don't even know what kind of rope you have.

Also I never short rope. I can't think of any good reason why I would bother.
So just use your dragonfly rope. keep it long if you want to do 30m raps. Or cut it in half and bring 30m pieces when do rappels.


creemore


Dec 26, 2009, 2:29 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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I vote for not cutting your Dragonfly HALF rope.

It's what I use in the Can. rockies for low 5th class climbs with no rapels required on descent. Fold it in half for double rope technique. Kiwi coil it for simul-climbing.

Also my choice for glacier travel. Then you can use it for technical ascents once you reach your objective. Carry the 2nd rope in the pack if you'll need full 60m.

Test your prussiks at home for proper bite. Not while roping up on the moraines :)


midwestpaul


Dec 26, 2009, 2:42 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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Keeping the rope long (60m) is much more versatile in my opinion. Because you are going to be climbing stuff where a fall is unlikely, you can lead on the single twin for a full rope or double it up for a short, harder section. It also allows you to make a meaningful rappel.

Besides, cutting the rope in half is only going to save you two and a half pounds, and what is going to slow you down more: 20 pitches instead of 10 or some extra weight on the approach?


moose_droppings


Dec 26, 2009, 4:53 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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Don't cut a good rope, you'll regret it sooner or later.

For times when all you'll need is a 100ft, get something like this as you suggested, or else just use your old 8.2 in a manner as others have explained. It's under 70$ delivered to your door and beats sacrificing a good 60m rope.


erolls


Dec 26, 2009, 5:12 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Alpine Short Rope Question [In reply to]
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Right, don't cut your rope.

If traveling on a glacier, just have all climbers carry an amount of coils to get the desired length.

I can't imagine the weight of coils being a hindrance especially an 8.2 when someone falls in a crevice. You,ll need the extra rope for anchoring and rescue.

Cheers -E


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