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ClimbTheCrag
Dec 25, 2009, 5:32 AM
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Hi, I'm new to sport climbing, and I was wondering how do you clean a route like the right bunker at foster falls or any other very overhung route? thanks!
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dudemanbu
Dec 25, 2009, 5:47 AM
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I suggest just getting stronger so you can downclimb the route without taking on the rope.
Or you can do what everyone else does and clip a draw into your harness and into the side of the rope that goes through the quickdraws. That keeps you close to the wall. Then you pull on, clean, and lower to the next draw.
The last one can be a pain because of swing and pressure on the draw.. So i'll usually downclimb from there or boulder up to it to clean. I'm sure there's a better way, but it works for me.
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jakedatc
Dec 25, 2009, 6:03 AM
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dudemanbu wrote: I suggest just getting stronger so you can downclimb the route without taking on the rope. Or you can do what everyone else does and clip a draw into your harness and into the side of the rope that goes through the quickdraws. That keeps you close to the wall. Then you pull on, clean, and lower to the next draw. The last one can be a pain because of swing and pressure on the draw.. So i'll usually downclimb from there or boulder up to it to clean. I'm sure there's a better way, but it works for me.
Yep, just go watch someone do it once and you'll get it. Do not unclip the tram without knowing where you will swing. I've seen people about kill themselves into trees and rocks doing that.
for the last draw if it is really steep i either boulder, down climb or use this stick clip trick to undo the last draw.
 
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rt_Climbers_875.html
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dudemanbu
Dec 25, 2009, 6:17 AM
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I dig that trick with the stick clip, that's a +1 from me jake. Looks super useful for insecure moves or bad landings.
Ps. I was kidding about downclimbing the whole route, just in case anybody tries any funny business.
(This post was edited by dudemanbu on Dec 25, 2009, 6:18 AM)
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uni_jim
Dec 25, 2009, 5:43 PM
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yay for drilling two holes for one bolt!
(This post was edited by uni_jim on Dec 25, 2009, 5:44 PM)
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jakedatc
Dec 25, 2009, 5:49 PM
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uni_jim wrote: yay for drilling two holes for one bolt!
that looks like it's at a gym.. but thanks for playing.
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jakedatc
Dec 25, 2009, 5:50 PM
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AHH 3 holes omg what do we do?!?!?!
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FriendOfMonoPockets
Dec 26, 2009, 1:34 AM
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I thought at foster falls on the bunker they just leave the quick draws on.
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lena_chita
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Dec 26, 2009, 2:55 AM
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Your best bet is to climb with someone who knows, so they can show and explain it to you.
Briefly, you have couple options:
-- the last person climbing the route topropes it and cleans the draws as they climb up.
-- you leave the draws hanging.
--after you lead the route and do a toprope transfer as usual, you attach a draw to your harness with one 'biner, and to the belayer's side of the rope with the other 'biner ( this 'biner is sometimes called a trolley). The belayer brings you down slowly, and you remove draws one at a time, using your "trolley" draw to keep you attached to the rope, so you can pull up to each draw as you go down. When you get to the last draw (or preferably, the second draw from the bottom), you go on direct, release the belayer's rope, flip over, if necessary, to reach the first draw, then grab the rock, make sure the belayer is ready and your path is clear, unclip the last draw that is holding you to the rock, and take a big swing.
Note that sometimes there is no clear path-- your swing will take you on a collision course with a tree, a rock, etc. In that case you have to plan for it and leave a 'biner half-way up the route, putting your side of the rope through that 'biner after you remove the draw from it, to keep your swing smaller at the first draw. In cases like this there will often be a perma-draw half-way up, or a cleaning 'biner. However, you can't count on that. So back to square one... find someone experienced enough to learn from. And use your brain as much as posssible.
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ClimbTheCrag
Dec 26, 2009, 5:24 AM
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Thanks guys, so it's basically the same as cleaning a vertical route, but you just gotta make sure you don't swing into rocks or trees by using one of these simple methods
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jeepnphreak
Dec 26, 2009, 6:04 PM
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ClimbTheCrag wrote: Hi, I'm new to sport climbing, and I was wondering how do you clean a route like the right bunker at foster falls or any other very overhung route? thanks!
My method,
1 climb route placing pro(draws in this case)
2 aet anchor at the top and low off
3 pull rope
4 people lead and pull rope, using the draws as preplaced, till we are ready for another route.
5 last lead will lower off leaving the rope
6 last climber will toprop on the end of the rope that runs through the draws and cleans as they climb.
7 when they get to the top clean anchor and rap off/walk off depending.
8 find another route.
9 climb safe and have fun.
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jakedatc
Dec 26, 2009, 6:36 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote: ClimbTheCrag wrote: Hi, I'm new to sport climbing, and I was wondering how do you clean a route like the right bunker at foster falls or any other very overhung route? thanks! My method, 1 climb route placing pro(draws in this case) 2 aet anchor at the top and low off 3 pull rope 4 people lead and pull rope, using the draws as preplaced, till we are ready for another route. 5 last lead will lower off leaving the rope 6 last climber will toprop on the end of the rope that runs through the draws and cleans as they climb. 7 when they get to the top clean anchor and rap off/walk off depending. 8 find another route. 9 climb safe and have fun.
Which is all fine and good if you have someone that is going to TR it or can TR it. other wise you have to tram in and down clean while being lowered.
I'm curious how the OP has gotten to the level of being able to do such overhanging routes without knowing how to down clean..
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kriso9tails
Dec 26, 2009, 8:59 PM
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Generous annual draw budget? Or perhaps he's just getting ready to start working the overhanging stuff and is trying to work this out in advance. I don't think it's so complicated that you can't just wing* it.
*possibly a pun, but unintended.
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jakedatc
Dec 26, 2009, 9:34 PM
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kriso9tails wrote: Generous annual draw budget? Or perhaps he's just getting ready to start working the overhanging stuff and is trying to work this out in advance. I don't think it's so complicated that you can't just wing* it. *possibly a pun, but unintended.
watched some nOOb down clean Peer Pressure (6 bolt L->R traverse) at Rumney and unclipped their tram at the first bolt and take a 30+ foot swing into a tree.. then back into the rock
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johnwesely
Dec 26, 2009, 10:33 PM
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use a fifi or a keylock biner on a 24 inch sling that is girthed to your harness to go direct into the bolts, then take off the draw, unclip from the bolt, and swing. Repeat. Don't be an idiot though. If you were to do this on the first bolt of Ethnic Cleansing or Kill or Be Killed, you would probably deck on the talus.
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Myxomatosis
Dec 27, 2009, 3:05 PM
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Ok.. Normally what I do...
Rappelling... Ill clip a quick draw like normal, belay loop to rope, then rappel down (with a prusk back up) and get a good swing technique going.
If I cant make it in to a draw, I just get my belayer to pull the rope that goes through the draws, and that pulls me inwards.
Lowering is a bit more tricky and always remember to un-do the quickdraw from your harness on the last quick draw (the 1st one) or else your belayer goes flying (and lands in a tree and can't lower you from the maze of rope around his legs and chest and tree  ), Speaking from experience.
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jakedatc
Dec 27, 2009, 4:40 PM
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Myxomatosis wrote: Ok.. Normally what I do... Rappelling... Ill clip a quick draw like normal, belay loop to rope, then rappel down (with a prusk back up) and get a good swing technique going. If I cant make it in to a draw, I just get my belayer to pull the rope that goes through the draws, and that pulls me inwards. Lowering is a bit more tricky and always remember to un-do the quickdraw from your harness on the last quick draw (the 1st one) or else your belayer goes flying (and lands in a tree and can't lower you from the maze of rope around his legs and chest and tree ), Speaking from experience.
there is no good way of cleaning the kind of overhangs i'm thinking on rappel... lowing is far easier
and on certain routes you don't want to be letting anything loose on the last draw or you will end up like the guy in my story above hitting a tree at x Mph
ie this route and the route left of it (peer pressure from the story) both put you on the ground 20+ feet from the start of the route. you can't just un-tram. that is how people get hurt learning how to do shit on the intardwebs
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ClimbTheCrag
Dec 28, 2009, 6:27 AM
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jakedatc wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: ClimbTheCrag wrote: Hi, I'm new to sport climbing, and I was wondering how do you clean a route like the right bunker at foster falls or any other very overhung route? thanks! My method, 1 climb route placing pro(draws in this case) 2 aet anchor at the top and low off 3 pull rope 4 people lead and pull rope, using the draws as preplaced, till we are ready for another route. 5 last lead will lower off leaving the rope 6 last climber will toprop on the end of the rope that runs through the draws and cleans as they climb. 7 when they get to the top clean anchor and rap off/walk off depending. 8 find another route. 9 climb safe and have fun. Which is all fine and good if you have someone that is going to TR it or can TR it. other wise you have to tram in and down clean while being lowered. I'm curious how the OP has gotten to the level of being able to do such overhanging routes without knowing how to down clean.. In reply to: Well I'm not able to climb overhangs yet, I've only climbed about 6-12 times and the hardest climb i've done was a 5.9, I was just curious, so thanks everybody for the help
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kyote321
Dec 29, 2009, 4:48 PM
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in-situ chains
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