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which harness for walls
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Poll: which harness for walls
misty mountain cadillac 0 / 0%
Black Diamond Big Gun 4 / 24%
Metolius Waldo 2 / 12%
Other (post it below) 8 / 47%
swedish pancakes 3 / 18%
17 total votes
 

zeth01


Jan 4, 2010, 10:17 PM
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which harness for walls
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ok so if you vote consider the misty to be the Titan not the Cadillac.


(This post was edited by zeth01 on Jan 4, 2010, 10:23 PM)


the_climber


Jan 5, 2010, 8:26 AM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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Ok, so you made a list of "big wall" harnesses and left out the "YATES BigWall" harness? Shocked

Which would be my vote.
Comfy. Even hanging for hours at a time, I've even tested that on numerous pitches... still comfy.


olympicmtnboy


Jan 5, 2010, 9:32 AM
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Re: [the_climber] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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You probably ought to put FISH on the list as well. I've got a Big Gun. It's comfy enough but I feel like I might be between sizes and I couldn't find one in person to try on. I dislike the lack of a prethreaded buckle since most all other harnesses now have speed buckle thingys and I've gotten used to them. I also hate the gear loops, they tried to fit in 7, so they are all too small and hard to clip, would much rather have the usual larger 4 on the sides and one in back.


zeth01


Jan 5, 2010, 12:15 PM
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Re: [olympicmtnboy] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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yeah i left out fish and yates for some reason. i fell asleep like 2 minutes later so i think it was due to being tired. anyways thanks. i think that black diamond is out for me. the gear loops on it do worry me as well as the significantly lower price tag. It does need to be super comfy as well since i plan on doing a lot of solos this spring.


the_climber


Jan 5, 2010, 12:29 PM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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Another comment on the Yates. The racking system is absolutely great. 2 FULL sized gear loops on each side, and another monstrous gear loop across the back. 2 haul loops on the back too. The hammer holsters and the hammer clip in point are very useful as well.

I find I use the hammer holster (the one without my hammer) and hammer clip in loop to rack a couple extra 'go to' pieces or screamers. Stuff that I might want "fast". I also rack ice screws on those loops in the winter... whoa! WAIT! hold the phone.

Ice screws?

Yes.
The comfort and great racking system has lead me to use the Yates bigwall for most of my climbing, including ice. An added bonus for ice, that wide swami belt keeps your kidneys warm.


shimanilami


Jan 5, 2010, 12:54 PM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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Yates Big Wall, for the reasons mentioned above.

My partner has a Metolius Waldo and loves it. It looks comfy, but the gear loops don't compare.


skiclimb


Jan 5, 2010, 6:45 PM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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Yates or you are stupid


Partner pbcowboy77


Jan 5, 2010, 6:48 PM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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I use the Yates Shield. I love it too...

The only reason I haven't used the Big Wall harness from Yates is cause I've never tried one on to see if it fits right.

I was using the MM Titan for a few walls, but there's not enough padding. If your gonna be in hanging in it at belays or hauling anything, your gonna be hurting...

I'll use it again, but only for one day walls with no hauling. Stuff like SFWC or stuff in Zion...


Zac


rschap


Jan 5, 2010, 8:20 PM
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Re: [pbcowboy77] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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The Big Gun is a great trad harness but I donít know about big wall, Iíll probably end up using it on Salathe Wall in May though.


yetanotherdave


Jan 6, 2010, 6:27 PM
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Re: [pbcowboy77] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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I'm in a shield waist and astroman legs - super comfy but still fine for freeclimbing. The only downer is stores won't carry them that way, you need to order from yates directly.


USnavy


Jan 7, 2010, 12:55 AM
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Re: [yetanotherdave] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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I have a Shield, Big Gun and Waldo and have climbed in each at least 50 times and I can tell you the Waldo is the most comfortable of the three. The Big Gun is the least comfortable. I don't even really consider the Big Gun a big wall harness. Its way too fragile. Its more like a big trad harness.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 7, 2010, 12:57 AM)


vegastradguy


Jan 7, 2010, 6:58 AM
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USnavy wrote:
I have a Shield, Big Gun and Waldo and have climbed in each at least 50 times and I can tell you the Waldo is the most comfortable of the three. The Big Gun is the least comfortable. I don't even really consider the Big Gun a big wall harness. Its way too fragile. Its more like a big trad harness.

comfort is not the only consideration for wall climbing....


johnwesely


Jan 7, 2010, 7:02 AM
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Re: [vegastradguy] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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vegastradguy wrote:
USnavy wrote:
I have a Shield, Big Gun and Waldo and have climbed in each at least 50 times and I can tell you the Waldo is the most comfortable of the three. The Big Gun is the least comfortable. I don't even really consider the Big Gun a big wall harness. Its way too fragile. Its more like a big trad harness.

comfort is not the only consideration for wall climbing....

Weight is my biggest concern. That is why I use a Dyneema swami.


shimanilami


Jan 7, 2010, 7:43 AM
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USnavy wrote:
I have a Shield, Big Gun and Waldo and have climbed in each at least 50 times ...

I call bullshit.


scottydo


Jan 7, 2010, 10:34 AM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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If I could have I would have bought the Yates Shield. But i didn't have the money and had a good deal on the Waldo so I went with that. Waldo is pretty comfy though.


(This post was edited by scottydo on Jan 7, 2010, 10:35 AM)


zeth01


Jan 7, 2010, 11:47 PM
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Re: [scottydo] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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yup i checked out the shield today at a local shop. they had only larges. i heard that it runs big. any experience with this before i order? i'm a 32 waist but skinny and would probably be a 31 after a wall and with all the gear pulling down. i want to be able to cinch it down when i need to. i'm pretty sure i'm getting the shield and maybe the other larger yates when i need it. thanks


USnavy


Jan 8, 2010, 3:19 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
USnavy wrote:
I have a Shield, Big Gun and Waldo and have climbed in each at least 50 times ...

I call bullshit.
I work at a gear store... I got those three harnesses for what you would pay for one and some change.





That's my second Shield I am going on and that pictured Waldo is retired, I am getting another. I sport climb and do route maintenance in these harnesses so putting 50 climbs on one of them is about four days adventure at my local sport crag.

Oh and that's Timewave Zero I am on in that Big Gun. So there is 23 pitches I put on it in one shot...

The Shield is a good aid / route maintnence harness because it has holsters for hammers and other large stuff. You can rack on all kinds of heavy shit on there and still have room for a large rack. But the main thing I don't like about the Shield is the waste belt buckles. They are rather hard to get tight and having two is a PIA. If it was not for the shitty buckles I would love the Shield. But in the end the Waldo is a bit more comfortable. However the Waldo is very non-user friendly so if it was not for the fact that it was very comfortable I would trash it.

vegastradguy wrote:
USnavy wrote:
I have a Shield, Big Gun and Waldo and have climbed in each at least 50 times and I can tell you the Waldo is the most comfortable of the three. The Big Gun is the least comfortable. I don't even really consider the Big Gun a big wall harness. Its way too fragile. Its more like a big trad harness.

comfort is not the only consideration for wall climbing....
Yes... Thank you... Comfort is one of the more important features you cannot learn about by looking at a picture so I chose to comment on that.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 8, 2010, 3:38 AM)


squishy654


Jan 8, 2010, 9:00 AM
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I vote for the Yates Shield


moose_droppings


Jan 8, 2010, 9:24 AM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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zeth01 wrote:
yup i checked out the shield today at a local shop. they had only larges. i heard that it runs big. any experience with this before i order? i'm a 32 waist but skinny and would probably be a 31 after a wall and with all the gear pulling down. i want to be able to cinch it down when i need to. i'm pretty sure i'm getting the shield and maybe the other larger yates when i need it. thanks

Go with the medium. If you have skinny legs you can order it with a medium belt and small leg loops from Yates.


zeth01


Jan 9, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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ordered the shield today as well as 2 sets of dmm brass offsets


(This post was edited by zeth01 on Jan 9, 2010, 12:56 PM)


coastal_climber


Jan 11, 2010, 12:17 PM
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Re: [zeth01] which harness for walls [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
I work at a gear store... I got those three harnesses for what you would pay for one and some change.

There goes your pro-deal.


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