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steempien
Dec 17, 2009, 10:44 PM
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Hi,
I and a friend (both from Holland) happen to be in San Fr. this weekend (19-20 dec). We 'd like to go climbing but we're not sure which is the best climbing area. We do have a car and are looking for something <3 hrs from SF. We do both sports and trad climbing. We don't have a tent, so any information on where to sleep would also be very welcome. Thanks a lot for your help,
Steven and Thomas.
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majid_sabet
Dec 17, 2009, 11:03 PM
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steempien wrote: Hi, I and a friend (both from Holland) happen to be in San Fr. this weekend (19-20 dec). We 'd like to go climbing but we're not sure which is the best climbing area. We do have a car and are looking for something <3 hrs from SF. We do both sports and trad climbing. We don't have a tent, so any information on where to sleep would also be very welcome. Thanks a lot for your help, Steven and Thomas.
Yosemite
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k.l.k
Dec 17, 2009, 11:59 PM
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Unfortunately, the good roped climbing is a long drive.
Yosemite is about 4.5 or 5 hours this time of year, depending on traffic. The Valley is still wet and has a lot of snow, but you could probably climb at some of the drier areas in lower Merced Canyon. You'll have difficulties getting a room in Yosemite itself, and would probably have to get a motel or a condo outside the park.
The Gold Wall at Table Mountain, near Sonora is a bit closer-- maybe 3.5 hours. It is a small sport climbing area, and it can get pretty crowded this time of year. Sonora has plenty of motels.
If it dries out enough this weekend, there is good bouldering close by. Castle Rock, about an hour south of SF, has good fairly good sandstone bouldering and a handful of bolted routes.
Indian and Mortar Rock, in Berkeley, might also dry out enough for a decent bouldering session.
There is another small area at Ring Mountain, near Tiburon, just north of SF, that has spectacular views and also tends to dry pretty quickly.
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i_h8_choss
Dec 18, 2009, 10:25 AM
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steempien wrote: Hi, I and a friend (both from Holland) happen to be in San Fr. this weekend (19-20 dec). We 'd like to go climbing but we're not sure which is the best climbing area. We do have a car and are looking for something <3 hrs from SF. We do both sports and trad climbing. We don't have a tent, so any information on where to sleep would also be very welcome. Thanks a lot for your help, Steven and Thomas.
Yes, Berkeley is a fun place to boulder, and that sandstone at Castle Rocks needs a few days of dry weather before its ready.
A fun place I like to climb at with decent views is Goat Rock on the Sonoma Coast, 1.3 hours away. Its got a handful or two of good topropes(5.6-.8 and 10's and 11's) and some bouldering. Its shist rock and pretty polished, dries quick, but a really beautiful setting.
Or check out Mickeys Beach or go to SLO and climb at Bishops Peak, or Yosemite, but check the weather.
If you want to rough it, you could probably sleep in the car at one of the larger pullouts along the 1 but only in remote beach areas 1-2 hours outside of the city, but check the signs too. If you feel like dishin out some of that euro, look for motel 6 or super 8.
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dynosore
Dec 18, 2009, 1:20 PM
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I was going to throw Castle Rock out there too. I went up there one time only, I had a few hours at the end of a trip after doing business in Sunnyvale. It was snowing lightly, and I was the only person in the parking lot. I went up and started bouldering around, saw the cave on the south(?) side of the main rock and thought it would be fun to climb up into. Went to pull over the lip and a flock of pigeons busted out in my face, I held on but scared me half to death. I would have decked with no crash pad and no one around. Stupid flying rats 
(This post was edited by dynosore on Dec 18, 2009, 1:21 PM)
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steempien
Dec 19, 2009, 12:30 AM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2006
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Thanx all,
The weather seems to be o.k., so I guess Castle Rock it will be,
thanks a lot! |
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zeth01
Dec 19, 2009, 2:44 AM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2006
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screw castle rock dont do it. it sucks go to pinnacles national monument for the good stuff. the gym is better than castle rock. im sure m gonan get some haters for saying that.
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ptlong
Dec 19, 2009, 2:52 AM
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I'd have said Merced Canyon in Yosemite (Cookie, Arch, etc) but it's probably more like 3.5 hours so just out of range for you. Sure you can't stretch it? Is your carbon footprint the issue?
Sugarloaf (Tahoe) might work though.
Otherwise you have a bunch of local choss, not that exciting really. Or the Pinnacles at 2.5 hours.
Might as well just go to the gym.
Motels aren't hard to come by in mid-December.
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boulderTroll
Dec 19, 2009, 3:15 AM
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If you are going to be in S.F. you can go check out Pinnacles National Monument (2:30 hours), it has some great sport climbing on volcanic conglomerate.
Castle Rock State Park (1 hour) might be dry by this weekend and if you do go i would recommend Goat Rock and Billy Goat Rock or the Waterfall Wall area or the main Castle Rock area, all three of those have good climbing and should be dry, all of the climbing is on sandstone so if the rock is wet do not climb on it.
Also there is Mount Diablo State Park which has good sport climbing on sandstone which may be brittle after a storm. In this area I would recommend Boy Scout Rocks because of the higher concentration of climbs, and the Pine Canyon section is only for the adventurous.
Another I would recommend is Mickey's Beach(30 min.), the rock drys quick after a storm and the climbing is good with a great view of the ocean.
Finally if you have to you can always go to the gym in S.F. or Berkeley.
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tslater
Jan 7, 2010, 5:20 AM
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Registered: Mar 21, 2005
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STeven and Thomas-
buy
"California Road Trip- A Climber's Guide" with 456 pgs, maps, topos, photos, routes, shop and camping info for over 100 climbing areas!
This book was made for visiting climbers!
You will find a lot to do! and it will give you a ton of options.
you can get it online at
http://books.barnesandnoble.com/search/results.aspx?WRD=California+Road+Trip+A+climber%27s+Guide&box=California%20Road%20Trip%20A%20climber%27s%20Guide%20&pos=-1
and go to http://www.slatervision.com/id21.html to see table of contents and sample pages!
Have fun!
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